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pmedicj

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I’ve been using Amsoil with OEM filters for years on everything that has a motor. I get the preferred annual membership which saves me a lot of money and it gets shipped to my front door quickly.
Last order I tried a bottle of ceramic detailer and was really impressed with the results over some others I’ve tried from chain stores.
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CO/ZA

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I'm on a dealer interval right now, but I stick with Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP.

ESP is the Euro car specification, and is better suited for the turbo engines these days.

VW508 / MB 229.71 etc. are far more stringent specifications than API or JASO.

Toyota doesn't have an oil specification, and only suggests using 0w-20 for normal driving.
 

SouthCoast

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I'm switching to Mobil 1 5w30 ESP. R&R is completely irrelevant if you simply change the oil.
 

clk55r1d3h

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Used to go with Mobil 1 now Kirkland cuz it’s cheaper. There was a guy on YouTube I believe, did an analysis of some of the major brands along with Kirkland, they were all basically the same thing. So changing it earlier is much more important than the brand.
 

MikeK

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I used to use Mobil 1 in my '84 Honda Civic that I bought new, made it to nearly 400,000 miles. Also in my Toyota Sienna I got used, but also almost 400,000 miles (and it was running fine but would not pass smog without significant repair...so excuse to upgrade to my current 4Runner). Now I tend to use Costco/Kirkland synthetic, as I'd guess it is similar but much less expensive. Costco also carries Mobil 1. Right now though I do not believe the Kirkland is available in the recommended 0-20 weight--given more vehicles are using it nowadays I would not be surprised if they did.

At least that is what I will use after the factory warranty oil changes--obviously they use whatever Toyota recommends.

My wife's RAV4 wants 0-16...never seen that one before (but I guess never looked)!
Kirkland is available in 0w20.
 

morsk

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Based on everything I've read, I'm planning to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 as my one and only oil. Probably won't even take it into Toyota for oil changes and keep it maintained by myself from start-to-finish. Planning to keep this truck for 15 years.
 

The_Dark_Knight_Forever

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Based on everything I've read, I'm planning to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 as my one and only oil. Probably won't even take it into Toyota for oil changes and keep it maintained by myself from start-to-finish. Planning to keep this truck for 15 years.
Same here...at least 15 years.
 

SouthCoast

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Same here. Only second best to Amsoil Signature Series.
Aside from the long oci claim, I don't see the draw to Amsoil. While I'm sure it's a high quality product, how does the formulation put it above other quality brands? I don't see the "OMG this is better than everything else on the market" data.
 

The_Dark_Knight_Forever

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Aside from the long oci claim, I don't see the draw to Amsoil. While I'm sure it's a high quality product, how does the formulation put it above other quality brands? I don't see the "OMG this is better than everything else on the market" data.
I agree but various tests found online have proven it edges out Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but not by a drastic margin to the best of my recollection. Amsoil is great for those who want extended OCIs but it's a pretty pricey oil. PUP is the best value for the money especially when taking advantage of the usual rebates they offer & it's easier to get ahold of than Amsoil. Walmart, Amazon & Advance Auto Parts with Walmart having the best price.
 

HVLA

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Yep... I love the Kirkland oil and run it in all my rigs.

The best oil is the one you change and at $2.70 a quart when it's on sale I'm not afraid to change it early and often.
Same here. Been using kirkland for years now.
 

josiahg52

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My oil-selection plan is:

Identify "Tier 1" oils — Oils that specifically meet and retain Toyota certification for this engine. These are the baseline oils.

Chiefly:
API SP
ILSAC GF-6A/GF-6B, depending on manual
Any Toyota-specific requirement if listed

Purpose: establish warranty-safe, no-argument baseline.

"Tier 2" — Oils engineered and manufactured to meet the Toyota specification, but do not necessarily carry the endorsement or certification. Examples could include major-brand synthetics that meet or exceed the required API/ILSAC spec, but are chosen for better published data:

lower NOACK
stronger HTHS
better oxidation resistance
stronger approvals
better turbo deposit control

Purpose: improve margin while staying very close to the official recommendation.

"Tier 3" oils — Engineering candidates
This is where 5W-30 enters the comparison. Also oils that by way of their specifications will likely result in continued satisfactory operation.
These may not be the exact North American Toyota recommendation, but they are still rational candidates if supported by:

same engine using similar viscosity elsewhere
API SP or strong gasoline-engine approvals
good cold-flow specs
higher HTHS
low volatility
strong oxidation/turbo performance

Purpose: determine whether a high-quality 5W-30 or other 0W-20 oils offers meaningful protection benefit without unacceptable cold-start or other detrimental tradeoffs. Parameters that matter most
For the 2.4L turbo hybrid, I’d prioritize:

API/ILSAC certification - Baseline gasoline-engine suitability and warranty defensibility
HTHS viscosity - Film strength under turbo/high-load/high-temp conditions
NOACK volatility - Less vapor loss, fewer deposits, better turbo/intake cleanliness
Oxidation resistance - Important for turbo heat and longer OCIs
KV100/KV40 - Shows actual viscosity, not just label grade
CCS/MRV/pour point - Cold-start pumpability in Maine winters
SAPS/phosphorus - Relevant for catalyst/GPF/emissions-system protection
TBN/TAN retention - How well the oil survives service
Shear stability - Whether it stays in grade after use
OEM approvals - Useful secondary evidence of formulation robustness
UOA validation - Run the plan through oil analysis, not forum theory.

My sequence:
Factory fill / early change around 1,000 miles.
Second interval around 5,000 miles and UOA.

Tracking:
fuel dilution
viscosity at 100°C
oxidation
nitration
iron/copper/aluminum
insolubles
TBN/TAN

If 0W-20 stays stable and wear is low, keep using a Tier 1/2 oil.

If fuel dilution, thinning, or oxidation show up, move to a Tier 3 5W-30 candidate and compare UOA results.
 

CUaaron25

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Whatever the dealer puts in there, assuming they remember to add oil.
 

Oldhoosier

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Costco Kirkland Full Synthetic. 5W20.

I sold my 03 Tahoe after 18 years and nearly 250K miles using nothing but Wally World Super Tech Full Synthetic and never had a problem and changed it every 7,500 miles. Even at that age and mileage, it was never more than a quart low at 7,500 miles.

Use decent oil, change it regularly...you'll be good.
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