Mods are pay to play, always.
If you tune your engine, blow your turbo, you're on the hook for the 10-11k for repair.
If you use an aftermarket lift kit, wear out your CVs or transmission, you're on the hook.
Some mods are 'safe' and fly under the radar because of their limited impact, such...
Really it's the dealer price premium and you're stuck with the hybrid power train.
If you want to go gas-only, you can build up an ORP with the lift kits and other accessories to match what a TRDPRO/TH gets you.
Bumping this thread a bit.
It seems like the Valvoline Extreme Red grease is a good option to use for both applications: the spider joints (u-joints) as well as the double cardan slip yokes.
https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/products/extreme-red-grease
Toyota says to use a generic #2 lithium...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FK6YJMLL
Valvoline 75w90 GL5 is also a great option, and has successfully been used for decades in 4Runners for front and rear diffs.
For me, the biggest difference is you have a sharp, clean cut off of the low beams.
As well as the fact they're wider in terms of throw.
The amber DRL eyebrows is also a nice touch, vs a low power low beam of the lower trim head lights.
I opted to replace mine with the TRD PRO headlights afterall.
The TRD OR/SPORT/SR5 trim headlights are abysmal, as was my similar experience in the San Juans at night.
The glare is very bad, and the sides of the road are not well illuminated, so you don't see a deer until the last possible...
The point I'm making is that it is always hotter inside your engine than out, so it doesn't matter so much it's 110*F off the tarmac on MoPac.
Its up to your cooling system to maintain that Goldilocks range your engine and trans is happy at.
On the topic of 0w-20, it was discussed to death in...
If you're worried about heat in Texas, you should be using -30 grade oil instead of -20.
And besides, it is always 190*F+ inside your engine no matter what temp it is outside.
Only real answer you're going to get is going to come from a UOA via blackstone or others.
10k is fine for a daily driver.
5k is fine for a more extreme lifestyle, such as towing heavy, off roading, multiple short trips, etc.
The US moved to 10ppm sulphur fuel in 2021, which was a big...
I actually got rid of mine, in favor of the new Pirelli Scorpion XTM ones.
They're even lighter in the same 275/70/18 size, at 50lbs for the Pirelli and 53lbs for the Bridgestone Ascents.
A C load KO3 in 285/70R17 is 56lbs by comparison.
75w flat is the factory spec, although it is practice to use 75w-90 there as well.
A popular choice is Ravenol 75w as it is much cheaper than Toyota fluid and is approved.
https://www.ravenolamerica.com/passenger-car-products/75w-gear-oil-ravenol-mtf-3/
With a diesel what you're going for is max torque at the very bottom of the rev range that then gets held all the way up to 1200rpm 'later'. It's not a peak, but a plateau.
The newer 8spd does help a lot with gear ratios & torque bands, but there are functional limitations to gas engines as...
I had 4 people on a trip to the San Juans, and it was nice being able to pile every nook and cranny back there with gear and provisions.
A lower loading height is also a benefit over the hybrid.
Nevertheless, you can refer to my other post that the only real reason we have a gas+hybrid option...
If this were anywhere else in the world, Toyota would fit the 2.8 GD6 diesel - which delivers 25mpg and 600mi of range out of a 21gal fuel tank in an equivalent Toyota Fortuner. It's also good for 201hp and 370 ft lbs of torque.
In fact they're fitting a 48v mild hybrid to the newer 2.8...
I'm not sure about this, to be honest.
The extra weight, reduced payload, and reduced cargo area is a big factor.
I agree that hybrid engines are great in the CRV/RAV4 segment, but I don't think it was anything other than a US emissions compromise choice in the 4R/Taco/LC250.