What Brand Motor Oil Do You Use In Your 6th Gen?

[CO/ZA]

My oil-selection plan is:

Identify "Tier 1" oils — Oils that specifically meet and retain Toyota certification for this engine. These are the baseline oils.

Chiefly:
API SP
ILSAC GF-6A/GF-6B, depending on manual
Any Toyota-specific requirement if listed

Purpose: establish warranty-safe, no-argument baseline.

"Tier 2" — Oils engineered and manufactured to meet the Toyota specification, but do not necessarily carry the endorsement or certification. Examples could include major-brand synthetics that meet or exceed the required API/ILSAC spec, but are chosen for better published data:

lower NOACK
stronger HTHS
better oxidation resistance
stronger approvals
better turbo deposit control

Purpose: improve margin while staying very close to the official recommendation.

"Tier 3" oils — Engineering candidates
This is where 5W-30 enters the comparison. Also oils that by way of their specifications will likely result in continued satisfactory operation.
These may not be the exact North American Toyota recommendation, but they are still rational candidates if supported by:

same engine using similar viscosity elsewhere
API SP or strong gasoline-engine approvals
good cold-flow specs
higher HTHS
low volatility
strong oxidation/turbo performance

Purpose: determine whether a high-quality 5W-30 or other 0W-20 oils offers meaningful protection benefit without unacceptable cold-start or other detrimental tradeoffs. Parameters that matter most
For the 2.4L turbo hybrid, I’d prioritize:

API/ILSAC certification - Baseline gasoline-engine suitability and warranty defensibility
HTHS viscosity - Film strength under turbo/high-load/high-temp conditions
NOACK volatility - Less vapor loss, fewer deposits, better turbo/intake cleanliness
Oxidation resistance - Important for turbo heat and longer OCIs
KV100/KV40 - Shows actual viscosity, not just label grade
CCS/MRV/pour point - Cold-start pumpability in Maine winters
SAPS/phosphorus - Relevant for catalyst/GPF/emissions-system protection
TBN/TAN retention - How well the oil survives service
Shear stability - Whether it stays in grade after use
OEM approvals - Useful secondary evidence of formulation robustness
UOA validation - Run the plan through oil analysis, not forum theory.

My sequence:
Factory fill / early change around 1,000 miles.
Second interval around 5,000 miles and UOA.

Tracking:
fuel dilution
viscosity at 100°C
oxidation
nitration
iron/copper/aluminum
insolubles
TBN/TAN

If 0W-20 stays stable and wear is low, keep using a Tier 1/2 oil.

If fuel dilution, thinning, or oxidation show up, move to a Tier 3 5W-30 candidate and compare UOA results.

Again, Toyota does not give any sort of specification beyond "use 0w-20 in normal conditions".

You have a good plan here, but the German auto builder specifications will exceed/trump anything you find in the API, JASO, or ILSAC worlds.

VW 508 is one of, if not THE, toughest specification to meet in the 0w-20 segment.

E.g. here is a supercharged 3.0 V6 Audi run on VW508 oil for 10,000mi : https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...19-960mi-2021-audi-s4-ea839-3-0-turbo.377876/

Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is available at Walmart for like $26 / 5qts

Sponsored

 

[Joe Dirt]

Currently using 0w20, 5w30

I've used M1 and super tech.
Currently the engine seems to run best on 5w30 with my SoCal climate.

I don't keep the oil in long enough because of my short drives. I like to keep a good stash on hand at all times what's your stash?
Or is this another potential post

 

[SouthCoast]

Again, Toyota does not give any sort of specification beyond "use 0w-20 in normal conditions".

You have a good plan here, but the German auto builder specifications will exceed/trump anything you find in the API, JASO, or ILSAC worlds.

VW 508 is one of, if not THE, toughest specification to meet in the 0w-20 segment.

E.g. here is a supercharged 3.0 V6 Audi run on VW508 oil for 10,000mi : https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...19-960mi-2021-audi-s4-ea839-3-0-turbo.377876/

Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is available at Walmart for like $26 / 5qts

Mexico, Middle East, Eastern Europe and the UK allow options up to 5w30 and 10w30. It’s just the US CAFE standards restricting 0w20

 

[josiahg52]

Again, Toyota does not give any sort of specification beyond "use 0w-20 in normal conditions".

You have a good plan here, but the German auto builder specifications will exceed/trump anything you find in the API, JASO, or ILSAC worlds.

VW 508 is one of, if not THE, toughest specification to meet in the 0w-20 segment.

E.g. here is a supercharged 3.0 V6 Audi run on VW508 oil for 10,000mi : https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...19-960mi-2021-audi-s4-ea839-3-0-turbo.377876/

Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is available at Walmart for like $26 / 5qts

Surely they list a performance specification, an API endorsement. Every owner's manual I've read has at least had that and that is what I mean. Those are my first tier: 0W-20 meeting the performance spec. Then other 0W-20 that may not meet the performance specs, but have other beneficial and specific benefits. Following these, alternative viscosities that have proper parameters. It's long and largely a waste of time, but I believe in it based on my BMW diesel and UOA results. For the last 180k or so, I've used the excellent, but NLA Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP Formula. Completely different application but good shear stability, low volatility, good cold viscosity/flow numbers, etc. all will suit this engine. It doesn't mean I'll try a dozen different oils. This is just to pick out a certain number and confirm with UOAs.

 

[CO/ZA]

Surely they list a performance specification, an API endorsement. Every owner's manual I've read has at least had that and that is what I mean. Those are my first tier: 0W-20 meeting the performance spec. Then other 0W-20 that may not meet the performance specs, but have other beneficial and specific benefits. Following these, alternative viscosities that have proper parameters. It's long and largely a waste of time, but I believe in it based on my BMW diesel and UOA results. For the last 180k or so, I've used the excellent, but NLA Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP Formula. Completely different application but good shear stability, low volatility, good cold viscosity/flow numbers, etc. all will suit this engine. It doesn't mean I'll try a dozen different oils. This is just to pick out a certain number and confirm with UOAs.

Nope, just use 0w-20 ILSAC GF-6A Toyota branded oil:

I also came from Volkswagen and BMW world, and find it strange that Toyota has no real oil specification.

IMO this is behind the times, and I'll definitely use the 0w/5w-30 ESP formulation once warranty is up.

ILSAC GF-6A is close to API SP, but like I said - anything that Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is approved for exceeds both in terms of performance.

 

[SouthCoast]

Nope, just use 0w-20 ILSAC GF-6A Toyota branded oil:

I also came from Volkswagen and BMW world, and find it strange that Toyota has no real oil specification.

IMO this is behind the times, and I'll definitely use the 0w/5w-30 ESP formulation once warranty is up.

ILSAC GF-6A is close to API SP, but like I said - anything that Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is approved for exceeds both in terms of performance.

You can use 5w30 now

 

[ROBERT18452]

OEM oil & filters to 5K. Oil has been analyzed 3 times and I am satisfied that breaking has taken place.

Next change will be Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20 and PurolatorONE (PL11411) going forward

 

[a_double]

https://www.eneos.us/product/eneos-0w-20/

 

[josiahg52]

Nope, just use 0w-20 ILSAC GF-6A Toyota branded oil:

I also came from Volkswagen and BMW world, and find it strange that Toyota has no real oil specification.

IMO this is behind the times, and I'll definitely use the 0w/5w-30 ESP formulation once warranty is up.

ILSAC GF-6A is close to API SP, but like I said - anything that Mobil 1 0w-20 ESP is approved for exceeds both in terms of performance.

You're arguing against a position I haven't taken.

I've never said Toyota specifies anything beyond ILSAC GF-6A and SAE 0W-20. In fact, I've repeatedly stated that my initial plan is to use an oil that meets Toyota's published requirements.

The manual page you posted doesn't contradict anything I've said. It specifies:

- ILSAC GF-6A
- SAE 0W-20

Those are specifications. One is a performance specification and one is a viscosity grade.

My comments about HTHS, NOACK, CCS, sulfated ash, shear stability, UOAs, and eventually alternative viscosities are simply a discussion of how to compare oils that either meet or may exceed those requirements. They are not a claim that Toyota has some hidden proprietary oil specification.

So again, I'm not arguing against Toyota's recommendation. I'm discussing how to evaluate oils within and beyond that recommendation.

If your advice is simply "use Toyota 0W-20 and don't think about it," that's perfectly reasonable. It's just not the discussion I'm having.

 

[NotApplicable]

There would be

You're arguing against a position I haven't taken.

I've never said Toyota specifies anything beyond ILSAC GF-6A and SAE 0W-20. In fact, I've repeatedly stated that my initial plan is to use an oil that meets Toyota's published requirements.

The manual page you posted doesn't contradict anything I've said. It specifies:

- ILSAC GF-6A
- SAE 0W-20

Those are specifications. One is a performance specification and one is a viscosity grade.

My comments about HTHS, NOACK, CCS, sulfated ash, shear stability, UOAs, and eventually alternative viscosities are simply a discussion of how to compare oils that either meet or may exceed those requirements. They are not a claim that Toyota has some hidden proprietary oil specification.

So again, I'm not arguing against Toyota's recommendation. I'm discussing how to evaluate oils within and beyond that recommendation.

If your advice is simply "use Toyota 0W-20 and don't think about it," that's perfectly reasonable. It's just not the discussion I'm having.

Agreed. Notably, Mobil 1 ESP is not ILSAC GF-6A. Neither licensed nor does it make any claims to meet the spec.

- A licensed (Starburst) GF-6A oil: fully satisfies the manual, and self-documenting if anything goes wrong. Zero downside on the spec question.
- An oil that “meets” GF-6A but isn’t licensed: very likely fine mechanically if the claim is truthful, but it removes your easy proof and hands the other side an argument. Keep receipts and the product data sheet if you go this route.
- An oil that isn’t GF-6A at all (like the ESP we discussed): this is the actual risk case. If you substitute a different spec — even a “better”/pricier European oil — and a related system fails, you’ve deviated from the stated requirement, and that’s a much cleaner basis for Toyota to contest the claim.

I’d stick to the starburst-carrying 0W-20 options during the warranty, myself.

 

[CO/ZA]

You're arguing against a position I haven't taken.

I've never said Toyota specifies anything beyond ILSAC GF-6A and SAE 0W-20. In fact, I've repeatedly stated that my initial plan is to use an oil that meets Toyota's published requirements.

The manual page you posted doesn't contradict anything I've said. It specifies:

- ILSAC GF-6A
- SAE 0W-20

Those are specifications. One is a performance specification and one is a viscosity grade.

My comments about HTHS, NOACK, CCS, sulfated ash, shear stability, UOAs, and eventually alternative viscosities are simply a discussion of how to compare oils that either meet or may exceed those requirements. They are not a claim that Toyota has some hidden proprietary oil specification.

So again, I'm not arguing against Toyota's recommendation. I'm discussing how to evaluate oils within and beyond that recommendation.

If your advice is simply "use Toyota 0W-20 and don't think about it," that's perfectly reasonable. It's just not the discussion I'm having.

There would be
Agreed. Notably, Mobil 1 ESP is not ILSAC GF-6A. Neither licensed nor does it make any claims to meet the spec.

- A licensed (Starburst) GF-6A oil: fully satisfies the manual, and self-documenting if anything goes wrong. Zero downside on the spec question.
- An oil that “meets” GF-6A but isn’t licensed: very likely fine mechanically if the claim is truthful, but it removes your easy proof and hands the other side an argument. Keep receipts and the product data sheet if you go this route.
- An oil that isn’t GF-6A at all (like the ESP we discussed): this is the actual risk case. If you substitute a different spec — even a “better”/pricier European oil — and a related system fails, you’ve deviated from the stated requirement, and that’s a much cleaner basis for Toyota to contest the claim.

I’d stick to the starburst-carrying 0W-20 options during the warranty, myself.

My actual position is to use Euro spec oils, as they exceed API and ILSAC standards - hence my pushing the 0w-20 ESP that costs the same as any other Mobil 1.

ILSAC GF-6 is a 5-6yr old spec now, and so long as an oil meets API SP it's effectively the same. In fact, GF-6A coincided with SN+.

The Mobil 1 ESP oils meet API SQ, which is better than both.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/anyone-see-api-sq.398459/#post-7328685

Besides that, the VW508 and MB229.71 specs are more stringent than either.

 

[SouthCoast]

My actual position is to use Euro spec oils, as they exceed API and ILSAC standards - hence my pushing the 0w-20 ESP that costs the same as any other Mobil 1.

ILSAC GF-6 is a 5-6yr old spec now, and so long as an oil meets API SP it's effectively the same. In fact, GF-6A coincided with SN+.

The Mobil 1 ESP oils meet API SQ, which is better than both.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/anyone-see-api-sq.398459/#post-7328685

Besides that, the VW508 and MB229.71 specs are more stringent than either.

why not simply move to the 5w30 esp?

 

[NotApplicable]

My actual position is to use Euro spec oils, as they exceed API and ILSAC standards - hence my pushing the 0w-20 ESP that costs the same as any other Mobil 1.

ILSAC GF-6 is a 5-6yr old spec now, and so long as an oil meets API SP it's effectively the same. In fact, GF-6A coincided with SN+.

The Mobil 1 ESP oils meet API SQ, which is better than both.

First, there is some confusion here.

All ILSAC GF‑6A oils meet API SP, but not all API SP oils meet GF‑6A. ILSAC takes an API SP–approved product and adds its license only if the oil also meets the resource-conserving/energy-conserving (fuel economy) requirements. So GF‑6A is essentially "API SP plus the fuel-economy hurdle." There are some API SP oils of a higher viscosity than ILSAC GF-6A allows.

SN PLUS was an older interim category (2018) that bolted LSPI protection onto API SN — it predates the GF‑6 generation. GF‑6A is the more demanding successor, adding timing-chain wear protection, tougher deposit/aeration limits, and the updated fuel-economy tests. As of May 1, 2021, oils built to API SN or API SN PLUS can no longer display the ILSAC Starburst, though they can still be labeled Resource Conserving.

Finally, without taking a stance on whether or not the Euro oils are better in practice, it's not true that their specifications automatically meet or exceed ILSAC GF-6A specs in all attributes. That is, the Euro specification requirements are not automatically strict supersets of the ILSAC GF-6A or API SP requirements.

That is to say, without making a claim as to whether or not Euro-spec oils are "better than" or even "materially different than" ILSAC GF-6A oils in use with a 4Runner, it is not true that they automatically exceed API or ILSAC specs. If they don't carry the API/ILSAC cert or make any claim to meeting those specs, it's impossible to demonstrate that they do just based on what Euro specs they carry. IMO being off-spec is worse than being on-spec and off-grade for potential warranty issues. Yes, Magnuson–Moss puts the onus on the manufacturer, but if you have an issue that can be related to lubrication or emissions, and you're using the wrong spec oil, they may try to fight you on it. In the end, even if you prevail in dispute resolution because they can't prove that off-spec oil would cause the issue, this can be a lengthy and painful process.

Modern oils are all so good that I personally don't think there is a reason to believe that going with a VW 5xx.whatever oil is going to meaningfully improve the life of your engine over a good ILSAC-GF6A oil (no matter that "cool Porsches use it"). And by going with ILSAC GF-6A, you avoid this entire potential headache from the beginning.

Edit: If a Euro oil does state that it meets/exceeds ILSAC GF-6A, even if it's not officially certified, I think that's pretty "safe" too. I'm specifically referring to Euro oils that make no mention of API/ILSAC and instead only carry Euro specs. For example, Castrol EDGE Euro Car 0W-20 M carries Euro certs and ILSAC-7 (which does satisfy 6A).

 

[CO/ZA]

First, there is some confusion here.

All ILSAC GF‑6A oils meet API SP, but not all API SP oils meet GF‑6A. ILSAC takes an API SP–approved product and adds its license only if the oil also meets the resource-conserving/energy-conserving (fuel economy) requirements. So GF‑6A is essentially "API SP plus the fuel-economy hurdle." There are some API SP oils of a higher viscosity than ILSAC GF-6A allows.

SN PLUS was an older interim category (2018) that bolted LSPI protection onto API SN — it predates the GF‑6 generation. GF‑6A is the more demanding successor, adding timing-chain wear protection, tougher deposit/aeration limits, and the updated fuel-economy tests. As of May 1, 2021, oils built to API SN or API SN PLUS can no longer display the ILSAC Starburst, though they can still be labeled Resource Conserving.

Finally, without taking a stance on whether or not the Euro oils are better in practice, it's not true that their specifications automatically meet or exceed ILSAC GF-6A specs in all attributes. That is, the Euro specification requirements are not automatically strict supersets of the ILSAC GF-6A or API SP requirements.

That is to say, without making a claim as to whether or not Euro-spec oils are "better than" or even "materially different than" ILSAC GF-6A oils in use with a 4Runner, it is not true that they automatically exceed API or ILSAC specs. If they don't carry the API/ILSAC cert or make any claim to meeting those specs, it's impossible to demonstrate that they do just based on what Euro specs they carry. IMO being off-spec is worse than being on-spec and off-grade for potential warranty issues. Yes, Magnuson–Moss puts the onus on the manufacturer, but if you have an issue that can be related to lubrication or emissions, and you're using the wrong spec oil, they may try to fight you on it. In the end, even if you prevail in dispute resolution because they can't prove that off-spec oil would cause the issue, this can be a lengthy and painful process.

Modern oils are all so good that I personally don't think there is a reason to believe that going with a VW 5xx.whatever oil is going to meaningfully improve the life of your engine over a good ILSAC-GF6A oil (no matter that "cool Porsches use it"). And by going with ILSAC GF-6A, you avoid this entire potential headache from the beginning.

Edit: If a Euro oil does state that it meets/exceeds ILSAC GF-6A, even if it's not officially certified, I think that's pretty "safe" too. I'm specifically referring to Euro oils that make no mention of API/ILSAC and instead only carry Euro specs.

If you do enough research into it, you can learn to compare API + ILSAC vs ACEA vs Euro manufacturer specifications.

There are tools like lubrizol and BITOG where the nuances are deep dived:

https://www.lubrizol.com/company/specifications
https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

You can see that they are comparable in important categories like HTHS, SAPS, etc.
It's rather that the Euros did it first, and never really suffered from LSPI problems as they addressed it back in the 2000s with engineering changes to their engines.Whereas Ford, Honda, and Toyota (possibly) fumbled through it in the 2010s. Honda is still suffering fuel dilution problems in their 1.5T engine to this day.

I can link you to my prior post on this: https://www.4runner6g.com/forum/thr...lk-engine-oil-and-az-filters.2654/#post-38391

The Porsche, VW, BMW, M-B, etc. test regimes are no joke and are born out of a need to supply their engines with oil that is strong, durable, and Euro emissions compliant. In central EU, they run 2yr/18.5k mi intervals on their oil for the 5w-30 / VW 504 category.

Nevertheless, to your point, all oils are good in this case when they are new enough to meet API SP + GF6A; but it could be surmised that euro spec oils or moving up to a -30 grade is better.

Warranty claims being shot down due to a customer induced, lubrication derived error are non-existent these days as far as I am aware.

 

[FloridaPhotog]

There would be
Agreed. Notably, Mobil 1 ESP is not ILSAC GF-6A. Neither licensed nor does it make any claims to meet the spec.

- A licensed (Starburst) GF-6A oil: fully satisfies the manual, and self-documenting if anything goes wrong. Zero downside on the spec question.
- An oil that “meets” GF-6A but isn’t licensed: very likely fine mechanically if the claim is truthful, but it removes your easy proof and hands the other side an argument. Keep receipts and the product data sheet if you go this route.
- An oil that isn’t GF-6A at all (like the ESP we discussed): this is the actual risk case. If you substitute a different spec — even a “better”/pricier European oil — and a related system fails, you’ve deviated from the stated requirement, and that’s a much cleaner basis for Toyota to contest the claim.

I’d stick to the starburst-carrying 0W-20 options during the warranty, myself.

Based on this report Mobile 1 0w20 ESP is ILSAC GF-6A.


https://pqia.org/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy-0w-20-advanced-full-synthetic-motor-oil/

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