First Oil Change with Pump Extractor / Fumoto Valve Installed

[dav]

I performed the first oil change on my ‘26 TRD Sport at 640 miles. I used an EWK pump extractor to pull the old oil from the dipstick, which only took a few minutes since the motor was warmed up. I could have just cracked the drain plug, but I didn’t want to make a mess and I was curious how much oil the extractor could get out. It pulled just under 5L, which was probably around 5.1 quarts. I pulled off my Rival 4x4 skid plate and cracked open the drain plug to get the rest of the oil out, which was hardly any at all. I was impressed with how much oil the pump extractor got. It was the cleanest oil change I’ve done so far. No mess at all while draining the oil. I cleaned up the area around the drain hole and installed a Fumoto F133N to make future oil changes even easier without taking odd my skid plate. The Rival 4x4 skid has a cutout for the drain plug, but I’ve read that oil can spill on top of the skid plate. I’ll attach a hose to the Fumoto for the next oil change to prevent a mess. I hand-tightened the Fumoto and gave it a quarter turn with a 17mm wrench. I then used a MotivX screw-on funnel to fill the motor with about 5.6 or so quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic. I checked the oil level a couple times until it was right at the second dot on the dip stick. I double checked the Fumoto valve and re-installed my skid plate.

All in all, a very easy oil change that will be even easier with the Fumoto. It’s probably possible to use only the pump extractor, but I’d still open up the Fumoto afterwards to double check. I know the VW/Audi folks are fans of using the pump extractors, but I haven’t seen a lot of talk from 6th gen 4Runnera about it. Having the right tools made this a breeze. Side note: it’s probably the placebo effect, but the motor felt smoother when I drove it afterwards. Here are some pics and links to the tools and parts I used:


Pump extractor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FWB5CP39?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1


Fumoto Valve (F133N, which is the newer version of the F103): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887M5LNG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


MotivX screw-on funnel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FVJUX0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


Chapin Oil Drain Pan to transport used oil: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N9R6BT1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


1 Quart measuring cup for adding precise oil amount: amazon.com/dp/B00C0N8098?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


Tubing to connect to the Fumoto valve (3/8’’ ID x 1/2’’ OD): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQSNBTG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

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[dav]

Nice job with pics and links. Best I have seen.
Rival front skid plate for me is on back order. Your setup is similar to the one I am putting together. My last toyota care is coming up so then after that I will switch out the skid plate and the pan plug for the Furmoto valve. The dealership tech actually said it would be nice to have a skid plate they dont have to remove everytime for an oil change.

As for changing the oil , more frequently is better especially for the turbo.

Pic is of my 2025 4R OR.
Couldn't justify 6k-8k for the premium. Using the davings for tire upgrade, ppf, ceramic coat and gas.

 

[mesaPRS]

Nice job with pics and links. Best I have seen.
Rival front skid plate for me is on back order. Your setup is similar to the one I am putting together. My last toyota care is coming up so then after that I will switch out the skid plate and the pan plug for the Furmoto valve. The dealership tech actually said it would be nice to have a skid plate they dont have to remove everytime for an oil change.

As for changing the oil , more frequently is better especially for the turbo.

Pic is of my 2025 4R OR.
Couldn't justify 6k-8k for the premium. Using the davings for tire upgrade, ppf, ceramic coat and gas.

Thanks! The Rival skid plate is awesome. The transmission skid was a bit of a PITA to install, but it’s nice. I wanted the TRD Sport Premium, but I could not find one in my area that didn’t have a sunroof. I love my non-premium Sport though. Ceramic coating is definitely worth it on this vehicle. It’s easy to wash now.

 

[Yoli]

Many many years ago I worked at Jiffy Lube as a lower bay tech. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen those quick-open valves leak or malfunction. I have to agree with most of the commenters on this thread - you could have saved a bunch of time and money and just drop the oil plug the normal way. Not sure why you have a measuring cup for oil. It's not rocket science. 5.4, 5.5, 5.6 quarts of oil isn't going to change anything. There's a range guide on the dipstick for a reason. But hey - if you had fun doing it, that's the important thing!

 

[mesaPRS]

Many many years ago I worked at Jiffy Lube as a lower bay tech. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen those quick-open valves leak or malfunction. I have to agree with most of the commenters on this thread - you could have saved a bunch of time and money and just drop the oil plug the normal way. Not sure why you have a measuring cup for oil. It's not rocket science. 5.4, 5.5, 5.6 quarts of oil isn't going to change anything. There's a range guide on the dipstick for a reason. But hey - if you had fun doing it, that's the important thing!

Yes.

 

[The_Dark_Knight_Forever]

Many many years ago I worked at Jiffy Lube as a lower bay tech. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen those quick-open valves leak or malfunction. I have to agree with most of the commenters on this thread - you could have saved a bunch of time and money and just drop the oil plug the normal way. Not sure why you have a measuring cup for oil. It's not rocket science. 5.4, 5.5, 5.6 quarts of oil isn't going to change anything. There's a range guide on the dipstick for a reason. But hey - if you had fun doing it, that's the important thing!

I had a ValvoMax on my previous 2003 Tundra for nearly 4 trouble-free years. Great design and super convenient. Just install the correct size for the vehicle & torque it on snug to spec. It uses a drain hose that opens a ball valve. Much cleaner then pulling the drain plug everytime & no risk of damaging the pan by stripping out the threads or over torquing the plug resulting in a damaged pan. My oil change tech loved it & I felt much better having it. It eliminates mess, the pan getting damaged, the plug getting damaged & forgetting to install the crush washer everytime. Essentially you'll never have to take the ValvoMax off to drain oil.

If you don't have the drain hose then it isn't opening. You'd have to remove the ValvoMax from the pan same as a drain plug bolt then reinstall if you don't have the drain hose at the time. Always a good idea to keep it in the vehicle & have a spare drain hose. No biggie.

ValvoMax should make a similar low profile valve for the differential & transfer case oil. That would be awesome.

 

[NotApplicable]

I had a ValvoMax on my previous 2003 Tundra for nearly 4 trouble-free years. Great design and super convenient. Just install the correct size for the vehicle & torque it on snug to spec. It uses a drain hose that opens a ball valve. Much cleaner then pulling the drain plug everytime & no risk of damaging the pan by stripping out the threads or over torquing the plug resulting in a damaged pan. My oil change tech loved it & I felt much better having it. It eliminates mess, the pan getting damaged, the plug getting damaged & forgetting to install the crush washer everytime. Essentially you'll never have to take the ValvoMax off to drain oil.

If you don't have the drain hose then it isn't opening. You'd have to remove the ValvoMax from the pan same as a drain plug bolt then reinstall if you don't have the drain hose at the time. Always a good idea to keep it in the vehicle & have a spare drain hose. No biggie.

ValvoMax should make a similar low profile valve for the differential & transfer case oil. That would be awesome.

Love the ValvoMax on my 4Runner. And, it has an additional cap that prevents it from being able to endlessly leak even if there were an issue with the ball valve, which is already very unlikely.

 

[The_Dark_Knight_Forever]

Love the ValvoMax on my 4Runner. And, it has an additional cap that prevents it from being able to endlessly leak even if there were an issue with the ball valve, which is already very unlikely.

Yep, that's very true. I just installed my new ValvoMax with 7,383 miles on the odometer. I just wanted to wait a while before installing it to drain out any new engine break in debris. Even poured in 1 quart just to let it immediately drain out of the open system before filling with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Next oil change will be a breeze.

 

[HotWheels4]

when do you decide to change the most important part... the filter

 

[mesaPRS]

when do you decide to change the most important part... the filter

At 5K miles. Changing the oil filter at 640 miles would be a waste and would be less effective than keeping the original one on.

 

[drNick]

What I do since I have the same setup is, after I drain the oil through the Fumoto valve, I pour a quart of clean oil ( I have tons of 5W30 stashed) to flush the engine, let it drain well, then close the valve and fill with 6 quarts of 0W20 Toyota oil. I just bought some through Toyotaparts.com on sale from the dealer for $25 for box of six. The OEM filter was $5 as well, so even though I used an extra quart the oil change wasn't expensive at all. I don't know if this is the perfect way, but I have used Fumoto valves on all my cars for many years, and just the convenience had made me change the oil more often, which could have affected the engines in a good way.

 

[SouthCoast]

Fumoto, clear 3/8" hose, ValvoMax oil bag. Zero mess. Pumps not necessary...

 

[mesaPRS]

Fumoto, clear 3/8" hose, ValvoMax oil bag. Zero mess. Pumps not necessary...

Correct...the pump isn't necessary once the valve is installed, but I used the pump to 1) See how much oil the extractor can remove b/c that is another valid way of changing the oil easily and 2) Not make a mess once when I cracked open the drain pan to install the valve.

 

[HotWheels4]

At 5K miles. Changing the oil filter at 640 miles would be a waste and would be less effective than keeping the original one on.

Sorry but that is entirely not correct. How would you think it would be less effective when you are actually contaminating your new oil?

If you desire to dump your Oil at an early stage to clean out any sort of break in material that can be present and fail to change the filter at the same time because of some made up internet reason you are pouring fresh, clean oil into a system that’s immediately contaminated by the old filter’s contents.

This will reduce the effectiveness and lifespan of your new oil. A filter is what less than 10 bux? If you really want to do it right then 3000 miles is going to keep the turbo happy vs 10k recommendations from factory. 5k if its not burnt.

 

[The_Dark_Knight_Forever]

Sorry but that is entirely not correct. How would you think it would be less effective when you are actually contaminating your new oil?

If you desire to dump your Oil at an early stage to clean out any sort of break in material that can be present and fail to change the filter at the same time because of some made up internet reason you are pouring fresh, clean oil into a system that’s immediately contaminated by the old filter’s contents.

This will reduce the effectiveness and lifespan of your new oil. A filter is what less than 10 bux? If you really want to do it right then 3000 miles is going to keep the turbo happy vs 10k recommendations from factory. 5k if its not burnt.

I believe The Motor Oil Geek is wrong about the oil filters IMO. He consulted with an AIR filter expert who says the AIR filters get more efficient at filtering the dirtier they get. They also get more restrictive. This is not something you want to apply to oil filters IMO.

If one wants to skip changing the filter during an oil change AFTER BREAK IN & its done earlier than a 5k mile OCI then I think that is fine...but to not change it at every OCI during break in & at every 5k OCI is asking for problems later on down the road IMO. It doesn't cost much time or money to change the filter.

I wonder what The Car Care Nut would have to say about not changing the filter.

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