First Oil Change with Pump Extractor / Fumoto Valve Installed

[mesaPRS]

Sorry but that is entirely not correct. How would you think it would be less effective when you are actually contaminating your new oil?

If you desire to dump your Oil at an early stage to clean out any sort of break in material that can be present and fail to change the filter at the same time because of some made up internet reason you are pouring fresh, clean oil into a system that’s immediately contaminated by the old filter’s contents.

This will reduce the effectiveness and lifespan of your new oil. A filter is what less than 10 bux? If you really want to do it right then 3000 miles is going to keep the turbo happy vs 10k recommendations from factory. 5k if its not burnt.

I’m going to trust the Oil Geek on this one.

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[HotWheels4]

I believe The Motor Oil Geek is wrong about the oil filters IMO. He consulted with an AIR filter expert who says the AIR filters get more efficient at filtering the dirtier they get. They also get more restrictive. This is not something you want to apply to oil filters IMO.

If one wants to skip changing the filter during an oil change AFTER BREAK IN & its done earlier than a 5k mile OCI then I think that is fine...but to not change it at every OCI during break in & at every 5k OCI is asking for problems later on down the road IMO. It doesn't cost much time or money to change the filter.

I wonder what The Car Care Nut would have to say about not changing the filter.

Car Care nut would LOL


The Car Care Nut (CarCareNut/ChrisFix) recommends following the vehicle manufacturer’s interval but also these practical points:

• Use the correct oil grade and a reputable brand.
• Change the oil and oil filter together every oil change.
• For older cars or heavy use, consider shorter intervals (e.g., 3,000–5,000 miles) or use higher-quality synthetic oil per manufacturer guidance.
• After long storage, change the oil and filter before regular driving if the car sat many months.
• Check oil level and condition before starting an engine that's been stored; if oil looks milky or contaminated, do a drain and fresh fill.

 

[HotWheels4]

I’m going to trust the Oil Geek on this one.

If you want to trust a content creator making nonsense up for clicks go for it.

Change the oil and the filter early good idea. No filter change is not recommended. You did not HELP anything.

 

[mesaPRS]

If you want to trust a content creator making nonsense up for clicks go for it.

Change the oil and the filter early good idea. No filter change is not recommended. You did not HELP anything.

Relax.

 

[SouthCoast]

Relax.

He's not necessarily wrong though. Air filters and oil filters are not the same. Change the oil filter with the oil. It's cheap insurance.

 

[The_Dark_Knight_Forever]

I’m going to trust the Oil Geek on this one.

You're certainly free to do as you choose. But just consider this...oil filters might become more efficient at filtering as you use it if you have an unusually dirty operating engine & the filter fills with debris which eventually restricts oil flow. If your oil is that contaminated then there is a bigger issue to investigate. Be careful believing that oil filters become more efficient the longer they are used. The recent The Motor Oil Geek video talking about not changing the oil filter might be the wrong advice. The expert he spoke to shown in the video was speaking about AIR filters...not necessarily oil filters. They are both filters of course but one filters a liquid that is recirculated in a closed system versus the other that filters air in a relatively open system. Both types of filters will eventually become saturated & need replacement. The thing is that you'll not know when the oil filter bypass valve is opening due to restriction & that allows unfiltered oil to pass back into the system. With the air filter you might notice decreased engine performance & a maintence notification because the intake air is too restricted. Best to be proactive & replace the filters rather than taking them to the end of their usable service life.

 

[mesaPRS]

You're certainly free to do as you choose. But just consider this...oil filters might become more efficient at filtering as you use it if you have an unusually dirty operating engine & the filter fills with debris which eventually restricts oil flow. If your oil is that contaminated then there is a bigger issue to investigate. Be careful believing that oil filters become more efficient the longer they are used. The recent The Motor Oil Geek video talking about not changing the oil filter might be the wrong advice. The expert he spoke to shown in the video was speaking about AIR filters...not necessarily oil filters. They are both filters of course but one filters a liquid that is recirculated in a closed system versus the other that filters air in a relatively open system. Both types of filters will eventually become saturated & need replacement. The thing is that you'll not know when the oil filter bypass valve is opening due to restriction & that allows unfiltered oil to pass back into the system. With the air filter you might notice decreased engine performance & a maintence notification because the intake air is too restricted. Best to be proactive & replace the filters rather than taking them to the end of their usable service life.

I appreciate it, but again, I’ll trust Lake’s advice because he’s literally a lubrication expert, not just a random YouTuber. I didn’t do early oil changes at all on my last two vehicles and they are still running like new 10 years later. I’m going to change this oil filter at 5K miles, which is much sooner than Toyota’s recommended 10K mile service interval. All good.

 

[OffroadJP]

If your oil filter has so much debris in it at 1 or 2 thousand miles that it triggers the by pass then you have serious problems. It will let you know very quickly when it grenades.

 

[NotApplicable]

If you want to trust a content creator making nonsense up for clicks go for it.

Change the oil and the filter early good idea. No filter change is not recommended. You did not HELP anything.

Given that following the oil geek’s recommendation calls for an oil filter change at the 3000 mile mark (after 2 earlier drain/fills w/no filter), 2-8k earlier than Toyota calls for a filter change, this is very much giving grumpy Internet forum user vibes. To imply that it is somehow damaging relative to manufacturer recommendations is hilarious.

his procedure is:
- oil only at 500
- oil only at 1500
- oil and filter at 3k, and every 5k after (modifying based on UOAs)

Manufacturer recommendations is:
- oil and filter at 5/10k

 

[morsk]

Given that following the oil geek’s recommendation calls for an oil filter change at the 3000 mile mark (after 2 earlier drain/fills w/no filter), 2-8k earlier than Toyota calls for a filter change, this is very much giving grumpy Internet forum user vibes. To imply that it is somehow damaging relative to manufacturer recommendations is hilarious.

his procedure is:
- oil only at 500
- oil only at 1500
- oil and filter at 3k, and every 5k after (modifying based on UOAs)

Manufacturer recommendations is:
- oil and filter at 5/10k

I think your intervals are wrong. His suggestion is to change oil at 500, 2000, 5000 miles. (+1500 between oil change #1 and #2, and +3000 between #2 and #3)

 

[NotApplicable]

I think your intervals are wrong. His suggestion is to change oil at 500, 2000, 5000 miles. (+1500 between oil change #1 and #2, and +3000 between #2 and #3)

OK, a delta of 500, 1500, and 3000, not total mileage 500/1500/3000 (wasn't sure if the miles specified in the UOAs were absolute or relative). In any case, filter is changed at or before the recommended interval so the whole "you'll clog your filter and cause bypass" thing has the same likelihood of occurring as if you follow the manufacturer recommendation.

 

[HotWheels4]

OK, a delta of 500, 1500, and 3000, not total mileage 500/1500/3000 (wasn't sure if the miles specified in the UOAs were absolute or relative). In any case, filter is changed at or before the recommended interval so the whole "you'll clog your filter and cause bypass" thing has the same likelihood of occurring as if you follow the manufacturer recommendation.

Changing the oil early only really makes sense if you’re trying to keep a fresh filter in the system not because the oil life has actually been exceeded. A 3k interval can be a reasonable “extra‑cautious” choice for turbo cooling, but beyond that, most of the extreme early‑change claims feel like they exist mainly to farm clicks and stir up arguments. It’s great marketing for content creators, and OP reposting it fits that pattern perfectly.

The whole “but I read it on a specialist site” line doesn’t carry much weight. I’ve never followed those ultra‑short intervals, and my cars have consistently gone past 200k without issue. This topic always turns into pointless bait for arguments rather than real maintenance advice.

 

[Nodak]

i usually do the first oil change at around 1k mark to get mostly engine debris out of the system early.

it seems to have worked over the years and i think it helped a lot with our 23 tundra and the fiasco that is going on with the 3.4L TT tundra and all the issues it has had since debut of the new gen tundra.

going on 20k+ miles and still dont have any issues with the engine even though its on the recall list for a new long block.

did the oil change at 1200 miles on the tundra and did the same on the 25 4R at 1400 miles (i think, dont remember the exact mileage)

also went to a 4k interval on the new turbo engines instead of my 5k interval that i had with my old NA motors.

did the 4R at 1400, 4k, 6900, and will do it again at 12k since i just changed it back on 21-may and will be doing it again shortly after my 4k trip to GA and back.

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