Can’t find the transmission drain plug

[jackburton]

So HOW do you change the fluid? If there is no dipstick, where do you fill it?

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[JD013]

So HOW do you change the fluid? If there is no dipstick, where do you fill it?

Wondering this as well.

 

[milsuper]

I've explored this issue on another forum. I own a '26 Tacoma (ICE) too, and I'm pretty sure it is the same procedure for Tundra, Tacoma....and, of course, 6G 4Runner (ICE). Refer to the link below (especially post #16). Hope this helps.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-fluid-change.876497/#post-31218884

NOTE: BTW, I've heard that it is a different and more complicated procedure for Hybrid models, requiring extra caution to avoid issues?

 

[127.0.0.1]

it's easy if you follow specific procedures in TIS

essentially you add fluid until it comes out the drain/overflow hole

hybrid is same procedure as non-hybrid
add fluid until it drips out the overflow hole

there are a lot more things to consider besides what is on these drawings

don't have TIS access ? you pay more for a tank of gas than TIS
costs for access to these specific procedures

 

[RunnerRocks]

it's easy if you follow specific procedures in TIS

...

don't have TIS access ? you pay more for a tank of gas than TIS
costs for access to these specific procedures

After payment, does the subscription last longer than a tank of gas ?

 

[milsuper]

Only thing that I'd like to add is that the proper fluid level check should be done at very specific operating transmission fluid temperature. So do NOT perform the procedure without reaching the specified transmission fluid operating temperature. My 2¢.

 

[127.0.0.1]

After payment, does the subscription last longer than a tank of gas ?

it's funny to me people know so much more than toyota and want
to screw around with their rigs, but balk at paying peanuts for specific
engineering and troubleshooting documents

 

[127.0.0.1]

SR5,

Thanks for the information! Very helpful!

Only thing that I'd like to add is that the proper fluid level check should be done at very specific operating transmission fluid temperature. So do NOT perform the procedure without reaching the specified transmission fluid operating temperature. My 2¢.

no and yes, there is a specific temp, room temp.

start at Room temperature for this series transmission, drain and fill

if you fail at room temp to install the required amount, then you
need to warm it up very slightly, do the shift pattern, and have the temp sensor in range
and tell you it's ready.

NOTICE:

If the automatic transmission assembly is hot (automatic transmission fluid temperature is high), wait until the automatic transmission fluid temperature becomes the same as the ambient temperature before starting the following procedure. (Recommended automatic transmission fluid temperature: around 20°C (68°F))

-----------------------------------------

Now if you are unable to add the required amount (same as what you drained) and it
overflows before you added enough, then there is a warm up 30 seconds and shift pattern procedure but if the temp goes above 113, you need to stop everything and let it cool down again


This would be the active test and it has low temperature conditions of it's own
(warm but not hot)

1. If the automatic transmission fluid temperature is within the appropriate automatic transmission fluid temperature range:
   Immediately proceed to ADJUST AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL.
2. If the automatic transmission fluid temperature is 45°C (113°F) or higher:
   Stop the engine to cool the automatic transmission fluid. Check that the automatic transmission fluid temperature is below 45°C (113°F), and then perform the automatic transmission fluid temperature adjusting procedure again.

as I said there is a lot to this. but the basic drain and fill is done at room temp and
you may get away with it, simple as pie. if not, you should have a GTS (global techstream) handy to read tranny temps accurately

If you do not have a GTS, you can go into automatic transmission fluid temperature
detection mode



7. ADJUST AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE (when Not Using the GTS)

NOTICE:

• Make sure to switch to automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode within 60 seconds after starting the engine.
• At the automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode, the D shift indicator illuminates for 5 seconds before it flashes when moving the shift lever to P or N if it is an appropriate temperature or higher.D Shift Indicator at Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Detection Mode
  

  ​	Below Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Adjustment Temperature​	Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Adjustment Temperature​	Above Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Adjustment Temperature​
  Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (GTS Display Temperature)​	35°C or less (95°F or less)​	35 to 45°C (95 to 113°F)​	45°C or more (113°F or more)​
  D Shift Indicator​	OFF​	ON​	Blinks​

again, a drain and fill is done cold. you only need it barely warmed up under certain
circumstances. if you drain more than 50% the fluid you need a TON more done

---
How to get into fluid temperature detection mode ? a shifter dance


a) Turn the ignition switch off. [#2]

(b) Depress and hold the brake pedal.

(c) Start the engine.

NOTICE:

To reduce load, make sure that all electrical systems, such as the air conditioning and audio system are off.

(d) Slowly move the shift lever from P to S, from S to 1st, and then back to P.

HINT:

• Keep the shift position in each position for approximately 3 seconds.
• Slowly move the shift lever to circulate the automatic transmission fluid through each part of the automatic transmission assembly.

(e) From the shift position in D, move the shift lever between N and D within 1.5 seconds for 12 seconds or more continuously to switch to automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode. NOTICE: Do not pause for more than 1.5 seconds. HINT: The automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode will be activated by moving the shift lever between N and D within 1.5 seconds for 12 seconds or more continuously.

​ *a​ Shift Position *b​ Indication of Shift Position *c​ Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Detection Mode *d​ 12 sec. or more *e​ 2 sec. *f​ Less than 1.5 sec.

(f) Check that the D shift indicator comes on for 2 seconds and then turns off.

 

[LostInAZ]

(Recommended automatic transmission fluid temperature: around 20°C (68°F))

68°F ?!?! I guess us Phoenix guys will need to keep the transmission fluid in the refrigerator since room temp for us during the summer is more like 85°F+. Heck, during the summer our tap water is like 90°F. Yeah, we have no cold water in the summer...cold showers are none-existent.

 

[MStarmer]

Welp, this was kind of a PIA, I had topped off the diffs and transfer case last week and wanted to tackle the trans as I'm kind of OCD. Front diff barely took any fluid to come up to the fill plug, rear diff took probably half a quart, transfer case took about a 1/4 or so. I tried to do the trans "check mode" but for whatever reason I just couldn't get. The parking brake didn't like going on/off/on/off etc.. Luckily I have a OBD reader and paid for a month of Carista, I wanted to see if they matched. Once it hit 95 and was climbing I was able to get it where I was comfortable with the trickle. Seemed like the trans like the other stuff was a touch low. Put in a quart but got a little less out. At this point all the fluids are topped off/oils been changed once / all the zerk's have been hit. Other than oil changes every 5k I don't think I'll worry about anything untill 15k (which takes me about 3 years). If you haven't checked your fluids I'd highly recommend it.

 

[SC4Runner]

Doing a drain and fill of transmission, differentials and transfer case next weekend. For those of you who have owned other Toyotas, how often do you drop the pan for a filter and gasket replacement? Some guys have told me they’ve always done a drain and fill only and are in the 150k-200k range, but they do this every 20k-30k miles.

 

[MStarmer]

Not required as it's more of a screen than a filter. Drain and fills with OEM WS fluid, as needed depending on your use. Just make sure you have an accurate way to measure the temp when you do the fluid check. Cautious what you use for the transfer case as well, there are a couple alternatives to the outrageous OEM fluid. Redline makes one, as does Ravenol. https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w

 

[Vincenzo]

68°F ?!?! I guess us Phoenix guys will need to keep the transmission fluid in the refrigerator since room temp for us during the summer is more like 85°F+. Heck, during the summer our tap water is like 90°F. Yeah, we have no cold water in the summer...cold showers are none-existent.

What about our friends in the Great White North

 

[SC4Runner]

Welp, this was kind of a PIA, I had topped off the diffs and transfer case last week and wanted to tackle the trans as I'm kind of OCD. Front diff barely took any fluid to come up to the fill plug, rear diff took probably half a quart, transfer case took about a 1/4 or so. I tried to do the trans "check mode" but for whatever reason I just couldn't get. The parking brake didn't like going on/off/on/off etc.. Luckily I have a OBD reader and paid for a month of Carista, I wanted to see if they matched. Once it hit 95 and was climbing I was able to get it where I was comfortable with the trickle. Seemed like the trans like the other stuff was a touch low. Put in a quart but got a little less out. At this point all the fluids are topped off/oils been changed once / all the zerk's have been hit. Other than oil changes every 5k I don't think I'll worry about anything untill 15k (which takes me about 3 years). If you haven't checked your fluids I'd highly recommend it.

I didn’t figure out the sequence either, and I don’t have a reader. If you have an infrared thermometer, a reading of 110 pointed at the transmission works just fine.

 

[josiahg52]

I plan to do mine at 5k miles (transmission filter, fluid drain and refill) along with the rest of the drivetrain and then the transmission again at 25k, 50k, 75k etc. replacing the filter additionally at 50k. 100k, 150k, etc. Transfer case and differentials every 50k.

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