Best Synthetic Oil for Turbo Charged Engines

[127.0.0.1]

He’s not some “random dude”. He owns one of the best repair shops in the country!

every single time he went over a particular model and year of Toyota that I
happen to be directly familar with, and he goes over common issues seen at XYZ mileage, he has been dead on and exactly correct. He really really knows the deep knowledge.

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[Joe Dirt]

Well as we all know these oil posts go down very deep rabbit holes that go nowhere!

So if everyone or most people want to do frequent maintenance I'm all for that! I say that because if I were to buy a used car it would be really nice to see somebody's doing exceptionally good maintenance on it.

I think this kind of falls into the same category as going overboard with ceramic coating! Your just preserving it for the next guy to come along that wants to buy it. Nothing wrong with that. I would love to buy a used car that was well maintained, exterior interior and drivetrain.

 

[gvan1998]

It baffles me that people can’t follow some good advice. If you choose to buy a used 6th generation at some point, make certain the owner’s oil change interval matches your standards. Good luck, future buyers of used 4Runners.

Good advice is following the recommended service provided by Toyota. You want to change your oil at 1k, 3k, or 5k go for it, its your money and you are just wasting it.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

One of the great things about a thread like this is the opportunity to use the ignore button.

 

[mfoga]

fwiw

this is not 'just a turbo' toyota slapped on a 4cyl to make more beans....
there is a ton of work built into the engine, head, cooling, crankcase ventilation... to baby that turbo.

however

10,000 is pushing it imho. 5000 is more ideal for a 4cyl engine and it is
not the turbo to be worried bout, it is the rings and oil burning. you want the
rings to stay clean so they don't stick and your motor becomes an oil burner,
turbo or not.

if this was a 6cyl... 10,000 is no problem at all. 4 cyl...eh, I'm doing 5000

this one of the few things i agree with out of all the crazy im doing 10x more maintenance because…

My parents have the first version of this motor. There was a recall they never were notified about and they ended up having an engine go belly up very shortly after the warranty ran out. I don’t know if it was the 10k they followed along with the recall or what but I’ll spend a few extra $ just in case.

 

[SC4Runner]

Good advice is following the recommended service provided by Toyota. You want to change your oil at 1k, 3k, or 5k go for it, its your money and you are just wasting it.

No, I plan for this one to be here long after I’m no longer on this earth while also ensuring I don’t end up with a blown motor. Rest assured, oil is cheaper than a new motor. If you want to keep yours long enough to get your kicks and thrills until the next thing comes along, drive it 15k-20k between oil changes. Who really cares about what happens? All the best!

 

[Gumpus]

If anyone thinks that the engineers have the final say over the design and manufacturing of any vehicle or any component, they are living in a fantasy world. The accounting department and the bean counters have the final say on everything. If they can save five dollars on a vehicle by making something cheaper, they will do it.

Also, just think of the thousands of recalls on all the vehicles over the years, they are the result, for the most part, of some engineer screwing up or the bean counters forcing production to cheapen the quality.

It’s all about the money. Always has been, always will be.

as far as oil changes, go, use a decent quality oil and change it whenever you want. It’s your vehicle. I choose to change it every 5000 using Costco full synthetic. I’ve been doing that all my vehicles for many years, never any type of engine related malfunction.

You're pretty far off. "Bean counters" are involved in setting the cost targets and the cost targets and also the customer satisfaction targets are based on the competition...with each new vehicle the engineers need to improve a little over the current competition. Once a program us approved you never see financial people again; the leaders if the major engineering functions are responsible to deliver the targets. You never see a financial person in a technical review or program review because there's no reason for it.

Read about Lean Product Development if you're interested. Cost and performance are customer-driven.

 

[Oldhoosier]

Again, if anyone thinks the engineers have the final say in the design, they are in a fantasy world. I agree that it is a collaboration between the engineering and financial, but that results in a trade-off between quality and cost. No vehicle built today with the exception of a few super cars, is the best car possible. What the public gets is the best car possible within cost parameters established by marketing and finance people. The design people do the best they can within those parameters set by others.

Engineers sign off on things every day knowing that the design is the best they can do within their cost limits. It doesn’t mean it’s the best they can do. It has to work that way otherwise a car company could never compete. And any battle between the engineering departments and a marketing and finance departments will always be won by the finance people. It’s all about the bottom line.

 

[ShotsFired]

Wrong...I am almost 60 years old and have owned many turbos across many manufacturers. The maker knows they put a turbo in your vehicle. Their recommendations for oil change intervals are based on this!

What is recommended?

 

[HVLA]

What is recommended?

Change oil every 10k miles and just out of warranty your engine blows so come spend that sweet sweet service money at our dealers to have it replaced.

 

[sstarrx2]

What is recommended?

Under most driving conditions 10,000 miles per owners manual. If you do a bunch of stop and go, towing or other exteme conditions it recommends more frequent changes. You can change it whenver you want. I work from home and put a max of 10,000 a year on my car, so 10,000 works fine for me.

 

[sstarrx2]

Change oil every 10k miles and just out of warranty your engine blows so come spend that sweet sweet service money at our dealers to have it replaced.

In all my years i have never had any vehicle power train fail out of warranty or under warranty. I always follow the owners manual. If one did I would just buy a new one.

 

[gvan1998]

No, I plan for this one to be here long after I’m no longer on this earth while also ensuring I don’t end up with a blown motor. Rest assured, oil is cheaper than a new motor. If you want to keep yours long enough to get your kicks and thrills until the next thing comes along, drive it 15k-20k between oil changes. Who really cares about what happens? All the best!

It baffles me that people cant follow a simple good advise, im just quoting you. I gave you a good advise to follow toyota recommended service.

 

[ShotsFired]

There is so much misinformation out there a person get's confused. After reading just about everything I can find, I'll stick with 0W-20 for warranty but because of the turbo, it will be changes every 3K miles. I did change it at 626 miles and is looked like tar. At 1500 miles it was also very dirty.
I will wait till 3K and change it again.
Watching and following the motor oil geek Speed, his opinion is his new Toyota wasn't even broken in until 15K. This derived from doing oil analysis.
My daughter is currently in Germany. She will find out what the recommended oil is there to either confirm or prove false people claiming Europe used 5W-30 and we are being sold a bill of goods for Government standards.
The explanation regarding different viscosities is based on location, heat, cold, etc. Well, if that's true, why are we using the same oil in Death Valley and Minot, North Dakota?

 

[127.0.0.1]

<snip>
The explanation regarding different viscosities is based on location, heat, cold, etc. Well, if that's true, why are we using the same oil in Death Valley and Minot, North Dakota?

Standard Oil Grade (for Mexico):

Oil Grade​	Oil Viscosity (SAE)​
API grade SL "Energy-Conserving", SM "Energy-Conserving", SN "Resource-Conserving", SN PLUS "Resource-Conserving" or SP "Resource-Conserving"; or ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil​	0W-20 5W-20 5W-30 10W-30​

Standard Oil Grade (except Mexico):

Oil Grade​	Oil Viscosity (SAE)​
ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil​	0W-20​

Standard Capacity:

Item​	Standard Condition​
Drain and refill with oil filter change​	5.6 liters (5.9 US qts, 4.9 Imp. qts)​
Drain and refill without oil filter change​	5.3 liters (5.6 US qts, 4.7 Imp. qts)​
Dry fill​	6.7 liters (7.1 US qts, 5.9 Imp. qts)​

NOTE: ECUs all have regional programming and firmware. A Mexico 4runner is a Mexico 4runner, and the firmware is not the same firmware in US spec 4runners.

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