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Bad CV axle angle

jjb07

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Hello. I just want to ask if this is a bad cv axle angle. I’ve just installed the Ironman 2.5. Is it too high? Just worried about the cv axles wearing out or breaking while on a long drive

2025 2026 4runner 6th gen Bad CV axle angle IMG_1413
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josiahg52

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Have to agree, Toyota isn't perfect, but if they thought different axles were required at 2.5", it's probably a good bet they really are.
 

pmedicj

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You are definitely going to run into CV problems at some point. Whether it’s torn boots, play or vibration.
Doing a differential drop is just adding another problem into the mix and be prepared for Toyota to refuse any warranty work on any driveline, chassis, differential, transfers case, axle problems etc. if and when they arise.
 

odins_beer'd

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You are definitely going to run into CV problems at some point. Whether it’s torn boots, play or vibration.
Doing a differential drop is just adding another problem into the mix and be prepared for Toyota to refuse any warranty work on any driveline, chassis, differential, transfers case, axle problems etc. if and when they arise.
Yeah, “never do a diff drop on a Japanese SUV” is a pretty wild blanket statement. The entire point of a diff drop is to reduce the CV angle you just made worse by lifting the truck.


Can a cheap kit or bad install cause problems? Sure. But acting like lowering the diff slightly somehow destroys CVs while the steeper lifted angle is perfectly fine is some serious forum-engineer logic.

Doesent look to bad. But you should have got the Toyota 2.5" lift as it comes with longer half Axles
 

IRFAN0922

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Get ready to change the needle bearing soon.

From my experience, going more than 2 inches of lift in the front can cause issues. It’s your vehicle and your choice, but at that point, you really need a differential drop. In my opinion in next 6 months , 2 inches is the maximum you should go in the front without running into potential issues; otherwise.
u may need a diff drop.

This isn’t something I’m saying based on information I found on the internet, it’s based on my own personal experience. There is a ton of incorrect information online, so take it or leave it.

Personally, I would stay at a maximum of 2 inches in the front and 1.5 inches in the rear.
 

pmedicj

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Just my opinion, I’m old and have been through all of these issues and have thrown lots of money regarding lifts just to make my vehicles more aesthetically pleasing and it always turned into a headache eventually.
That’s why I went with the pro and if I was to go with another model and wanted a lift I would have had Toyota install their lift kit so it’s all covered under their warranty.
 

Silver Bullet

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Like stated, do a diff drop. It’s not a hard install, along with not being overly expensive.

So, on the Toyota factory lift, different axels are being used? Of so (though I’m sure I can look this up) what is different?
 

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The whole point of a diff drop is to transfer some of the extreme CV axle angle to the drive shaft going from the transfer case to the diff. The down side is you lose a bit of clearance that you gained by doing the lift in the front. But normally the pumpkin on the rear axle is lower so it's not a big deal.

My first diff drop was on an 88 Toyota when they first came out with their V6. I was running 35" super swampers with 5.29 gears. Back then things were more crude. The front springs were torsion bars so the lift kits were mainly either spacer blocks or new spindles. The stock tires were smaller so to run 35s you needed a real lift. The slip joint on the front driveshaft on the first IFS trucks were prone to rusting making dropping the front diff harder. I bet I put 100,000 miles on that truck without an issue.
 
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jjb07

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Thank you guys for the replies. I’m sorry I forgot to mention that a differential drop kit was installed already with this Ironman Im 2.5 kit. Also, I’ve got the ECGS needle bearing installed as well. I’m hoping it settles more later. Im planning on loading this up with overlanding gears since I go camping a lot, which hopefully would lower it more. I’d probably change out the suspension later to OME mt64 or bilstein 8112 or 6112 if it causes me a problem later on. I don’t do hardcore off roading or go through rough terrain at high speeds. Just want a reliable suspension that can handle load. Toyota installed all of these so I’m hoping when something breaks they could still cover it 🤞
 

NWRes

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I agree with a few of the others. I have been driving 4WDs for 50 years, Some were lifted, some not. One thing I have learned is that pretty much every suspension/drive train modification causes problems later. These days modern suspension lifts and wheel off sets almost always put strain on CV joints and wheel bearings. Parts wear out much sooner and replacement parts are not cheap.

That is why I went with the Westcott Pre Collar kit. Got the vehicle leveled up and the front end a little bit more up out of the snow which is what I was after. And the front axles retained pretty much the same angles. I installed just a 4 inch lift on my 04 2500HD for the same reasons. Front axles retained the same geometry and the Chevy rake was gone. Chevrolet and other mechanics all told me the same thing. One of the most common issues they see on trucks with lifts are shot wheel bearings and CV axles because of extreme axle angles and wheel offsets.
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