What Brand Motor Oil Do You Use In Your 6th Gen?

[morsk]

The viscosity sheer is what led me to move to 5w30 ESP. You don't need to wait until the warranty is up though. International manuals, specifically Mexico, indicate 5w30 is perfectly fine for an alternative viscosity. While fuel dilution is the typical culprit most think of, it's more than likely the turbo and excess heat generated. I'll attach my UOA results for inspection. They do show a gradual increase in viscosity margin over the original two, but not to the point where I would trust the 0w20 to do it's job in this platform. You'll see my mileage at each oci is relatively low too. Again, switching to 5w30 will not void your warranty. You'll notice the fuel dilution was essentially zero. The only remaining factors are the turbo, cam phasers and mechanical effects, and excess heat

Thanks for the info and analysis report. I was actually re-reading this thread last night and got to page 3 before I fell asleep, but I've been researching this topic more seriously over the past few weeks.

I understand the difference in US vs. International manuals for the same engine, and that's giving me a little comfort.

Why 5W-30 ESP and not 0W-30 ESP, if you don't mind me asking. From browsing the BITOG forums, users seem to give the 0W-30 a slight edge vs. the 5W-30, but maybe that's just my perception.

The 0W-30 ESP was the one I have been seriously thinking about switching over to (if I do), but haven't made up my mind as to when. I live in downstate NY, so I have all 4 seasons and I'd say I'm a fairly moderate driver (not a heavy footed driver but also not a grandma). Average trips are 25 minutes mostly highway, but I do also make a few, VERY short 1-mile trips for emergencies.

Given that, do you still think the higher viscosity is the better weighted oil for my use case?

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[SouthCoast]

Thanks for the info and analysis report. I was actually re-reading this thread last night and got to page 3 before I fell asleep, but I've been researching this topic more seriously over the past few weeks.

I understand the difference in US vs. International manuals for the same engine, and that's giving me a little comfort.

Why 5W-30 ESP and not 0W-30 ESP, if you don't mind me asking. From browsing the BITOG forums, users seem to give the 0W-30 a slight edge vs. the 5W-30, but maybe that's just my perception.

The 0W-30 ESP was the one I have been seriously thinking about switching over to (if I do), but haven't made up my mind as to when. I live in downstate NY, so I have all 4 seasons and I'd say I'm a fairly moderate driver (not a heavy footed driver but also not a grandma). Average trips are 25 minutes mostly highway, but I do also make a few, VERY short 1-mile trips for emergencies.

Given that, do you still think the higher viscosity is the better weighted oil for my use case?

I went 5w as I live in Houston, Tx. The likelihood Houston gets to -35f is, at best case, almost non-existent. However, 5w has been used in many platforms for decades in colder environments. If cold flow is a necessity or real time factor for you, 0w isn't a bad option. It just doesn't make sense for my use. 5w also uses less VII's than a typical 0w, which creates less of an opportunity for mechanical shear. But, in your case, a 0w30 should prove to be just fine, especially with the much colder winters. the HTHS values are almost identical between the two. I simply went for a more "warm/hot climate blend" as I don't really need the added low temp flow characteristics.

 

[morsk]

I went 5w as I live in Houston, Tx. The likelihood Houston gets to -35f is, at best case, almost non-existent. However, 5w has been used in many platforms for decades in colder environments. If cold flow is a necessity or real time factor for you, 0w isn't a bad option. It just doesn't make sense for my use. 5w also uses less VII's than a typical 0w, which creates less of an opportunity for mechanical shear. But, in your case, a 0w30 should prove to be just fine, especially with the much colder winters. the HTHS values are almost identical between the two. I simply went for a more "warm/hot climate blend" as I don't really need the added low temp flow characteristics.

SouthCoast, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and thought experiment - much appreciated. I think I will eventually move onto 0W-30, but not sure of the when. I just crossed 1,000 miles today and I feel just a tad more comfortable at this point to stick with 0W-20 during this period.

Coincidentally, I just saw that Lake Speed posted a new vid on the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum base oil change. It's brewing up quite a storm on BITOG, but it seems like the consensus from the cooler heads is it's still a fine oil even with the change. Nevertheless, I have a few jugs of PUP to carry me over for my 1,500, 3,000, and 5,000 mil break-in oil changes, but will be moving onto Mobil 1 0W-20 ESP until I decide to move onto 0W-30 ESP. Feeling comfortable with this plan for now.

 

[SouthCoast]

SouthCoast, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and thought experiment - much appreciated. I think I will eventually move onto 0W-30, but not sure of the when. I just crossed 1,000 miles today and I feel just a tad more comfortable at this point to stick with 0W-20 during this period.

Coincidentally, I just saw that Lake Speed posted a new vid on the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum base oil change. It's brewing up quite a storm on BITOG, but it seems like the consensus from the cooler heads is it's still a fine oil even with the change. Nevertheless, I have a few jugs of PUP to carry me over for my 1,500, 3,000, and 5,000 mil break-in oil changes, but will be moving onto Mobil 1 0W-20 ESP until I decide to move onto 0W-30 ESP. Feeling comfortable with this plan for now.

I actually completed the break-in period, which I decided was 13k miles, before switching to 5w30 ESP. I wanted a clean baseline of data before making the decision to change. I’m technically on my first oci of 5w30, and running a 3k oci from here on. Yeah, I saw the video from Lake as well. It’s not an “end of the oil world” situation by any means. But, it does make one think of options to a degree. You have several good options!

 

[TMLifer]

SouthCoast, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and thought experiment - much appreciated. I think I will eventually move onto 0W-30, but not sure of the when. I just crossed 1,000 miles today and I feel just a tad more comfortable at this point to stick with 0W-20 during this period.

Coincidentally, I just saw that Lake Speed posted a new vid on the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum base oil change. It's brewing up quite a storm on BITOG, but it seems like the consensus from the cooler heads is it's still a fine oil even with the change. Nevertheless, I have a few jugs of PUP to carry me over for my 1,500, 3,000, and 5,000 mil break-in oil changes, but will be moving onto Mobil 1 0W-20 ESP until I decide to move onto 0W-30 ESP. Feeling comfortable with this plan for now.

Thanks for mentioning about Lake Speed's video about the PUP formulation change. Didn't know about it until you mentioned it. That's disappointing to hear that they stopped using base oil made from natural gas. But I plan to stick with PUP.

Here's the link to the Lake Speed video about the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum base oil formation change for anyone who hasn't watched it and is interested:

 

[TMLifer]

 

[josiahg52]

I've finalized my plan:

- 500–1,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 2,000–2,500 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000–10,000 miles: First full 5,000-mile OCI on Toyota 0W-20.

- 10,000 miles: Oil change and UOA. Main decision point for determining whether initial wear/break-in trends have sufficiently stabilized.

- Through 10,000 miles: Stay with Toyota 0W-20 to maintain a consistent baseline and avoid introducing additional variables during initial wear-in.

- After 10,000 miles: If UOA trends look stable, open consideration to alternative oils/viscosities. Likely candidates include Mobil 1 and Schaeffer's in appropriate 0W-20, 0W-30, or 5W-30 formulations.

- First alternative oil: Run approximately 5,000 miles and perform another UOA, allowing comparison against the established 5,000-mile Toyota 0W-20 baseline.

- Longer term: Use accumulated UOA results to determine whether changing oils provides any meaningful benefit and whether extending the OCI to ~7,500 miles, and potentially 10,000 miles, is justified.

- Nothing predetermined: Alternative oils and longer OCIs are options to evaluate from the data, not predetermined goals.

 

[morsk]

I've finalized my plan:

- 500–1,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 2,000–2,500 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000–10,000 miles: First full 5,000-mile OCI on Toyota 0W-20.

- 10,000 miles: Oil change and UOA. Main decision point for determining whether initial wear/break-in trends have sufficiently stabilized.

- Through 10,000 miles: Stay with Toyota 0W-20 to maintain a consistent baseline and avoid introducing additional variables during initial wear-in.

- After 10,000 miles: If UOA trends look stable, open consideration to alternative oils/viscosities. Likely candidates include Mobil 1 and Schaeffer's in appropriate 0W-20, 0W-30, or 5W-30 formulations.

- First alternative oil: Run approximately 5,000 miles and perform another UOA, allowing comparison against the established 5,000-mile Toyota 0W-20 baseline.

- Longer term: Use accumulated UOA results to determine whether changing oils provides any meaningful benefit and whether extending the OCI to ~7,500 miles, and potentially 10,000 miles, is justified.

- Nothing predetermined: Alternative oils and longer OCIs are options to evaluate from the data, not predetermined goals.

It'd be appreciated if you post your UOA's in this thread!

 

[shine]

Adding the report from my first three oil changes. Using TGMO 0W-20 like Mr. T says to do, but did my oil and filter changes at roughly 1k, 3k, 6k and will do the next at 10k. Planning on 5k intervals after that, and will continue to do tests at least a couple more times.

Still hemming and hawing about whether to let my local Toyota dealer do the 10k. So far been doing the oil changes myself, it's quicker and easier than taking the Green Giant to the dealer.

 

[SouthCoast]

I've finalized my plan:

- 500–1,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 2,000–2,500 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000 miles: Toyota 0W-20 + Toyota filter. Oil change and UOA.

- 5,000–10,000 miles: First full 5,000-mile OCI on Toyota 0W-20.

- 10,000 miles: Oil change and UOA. Main decision point for determining whether initial wear/break-in trends have sufficiently stabilized.

- Through 10,000 miles: Stay with Toyota 0W-20 to maintain a consistent baseline and avoid introducing additional variables during initial wear-in.

- After 10,000 miles: If UOA trends look stable, open consideration to alternative oils/viscosities. Likely candidates include Mobil 1 and Schaeffer's in appropriate 0W-20, 0W-30, or 5W-30 formulations.

- First alternative oil: Run approximately 5,000 miles and perform another UOA, allowing comparison against the established 5,000-mile Toyota 0W-20 baseline.

- Longer term: Use accumulated UOA results to determine whether changing oils provides any meaningful benefit and whether extending the OCI to ~7,500 miles, and potentially 10,000 miles, is justified.

- Nothing predetermined: Alternative oils and longer OCIs are options to evaluate from the data, not predetermined goals.

That’s essentially what I did. Will absolutely never use 0w20 again though.

Adding the report from my first three oil changes. Using TGMO 0W-20 like Mr. T says to do, but did my oil and filter changes at roughly 1k, 3k, 6k and will do the next at 10k. Planning on 5k intervals after that, and will continue to do tests at least a couple more times.

Still hemming and hawing about whether to let my local Toyota dealer do the 10k. So far been doing the oil changes myself, it's quicker and easier than taking the Green Giant to the dealer.

wow, you essentially had 0W 16 by the time you changed the oil. That’s not a very good indicator of whatever brand you’re using maintains viscosity well.

 

[morsk]

Adding the report from my first three oil changes. Using TGMO 0W-20 like Mr. T says to do, but did my oil and filter changes at roughly 1k, 3k, 6k and will do the next at 10k. Planning on 5k intervals after that, and will continue to do tests at least a couple more times.

Still hemming and hawing about whether to let my local Toyota dealer do the 10k. So far been doing the oil changes myself, it's quicker and easier than taking the Green Giant to the dealer.

Wow, out of grade in each of the first 1,000 miles OCI's and almost out of grade in the third. Insane. To me, that either points to TMO being ass or 0W-20 as a whole being a bad recommendation on Toyota's part.

 

[shine]

you essentially had 0W 16 by the time you changed the oil. That’s not a very good indicator of whatever brand you’re using maintains viscosity well.

 

[shine]

almost out of grade in the third.

...and my wife is almost pregnant

To me, that either points to TMO being ass or 0W-20 as a whole being a bad recommendation on Toyota's part.

I take this as nice progression as the engine breaks in. Intend to continue as planned while testing and monitoring, then let the data decide.

 

[TMLifer]

It's either Toyota puts inferior oil in the vehicles at the factory or the initial engine break-in rapidly breaks down the oil.

It'll be interesting to see the oil analysis results on my next (second) oil change since I have Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) oil in the rig now. I wonder if the results will be different PUP vs factory oil.

 

[SouthCoast]

either way, 6.10 is way too close to a 16 than I'd be comfortable with. I'm not willing to trust mine with water... But, it's your truck! GL!!!

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