OEM Trailhunter steel skid plates (front, rear, transfer case) install & part numbers for 2025 4Runner Off-Road Premium ORP

[Desmolicious]

BTW, the Toyota part site claims there is access to all maintenance items (oil and such), although it sure does not look like there are.

Toyota does claim that there is access, and there should be as this is a standard part for the Trailhunter.
Can anyone with a Trailhunter confirm that the skid plate does not need to be removed for oil changes?

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[Joe Dirt]

Toyota does claim that there is access, and there should be as this is a standard part for the Trailhunter.
Can anyone with a Trailhunter confirm that the skid plate does not need to be removed for oil changes?

I have been thinking about that as well, because I do not see any access holes. I haven't been that fired up to head down to the local dealership parts department and pick their brain for a breakdown of it. Hope someone chimes in with details.

 

[moosepwr]

Those are the factory recovery points...you had them painted/powder-coated red, right? I know Toyota has red aftermarket hooks, but they ain't it, and pix I see have them as black. I got mine powder-coated on my SR5 and love it...was just wondering if Toyota did offer them in red as well.

Just curious: what type of place would I go to to get mine powder coated? Any body shop?

 

[shine]

Toyota does claim that there is access, and there should be as this is a standard part for the Trailhunter.
Can anyone with a Trailhunter confirm that the skid plate does not need to be removed for oil changes?

Trailhunter here - front skid does indeed need to be removed for oil change.

They did something clever however. Remove all bolts except only loosen two of them, then slide the skid sideways and lower it. Makes it less of a hassle to put back on. There was even a separate sheet of paper in the glove box that explains this process.

 

[ToYoDaMan]

Trailhunter here - front skid does indeed need to be removed for oil change.

They did something clever however. Remove all bolts except only loosen two of them, then slide the skid sideways and lower it. Makes it less of a hassle to put back on. There was even a separate sheet of paper in the glove box that explains this process.

This should be the same for the oem TRD Skids.

 

[Desmolicious]

Trailhunter here - front skid does indeed need to be removed for oil change.

They did something clever however. Remove all bolts except only loosen two of them, then slide the skid sideways and lower it. Makes it less of a hassle to put back on. There was even a separate sheet of paper in the glove box that explains this process.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[83asdf763]

Finally got all 3 pieces OEM skid plates. These are hardened steel, thinner than the 1/4 inch aluminum TRD front plate.
I like the matching design/color scheme.

These part number are for gas model. Hybrid might be different.

Front: PT228-35240
Transfer case: PT228-35248
Rear: PT228-35245


Undercarriage video look:

Photos:

 

[83asdf763]

Hi there. Are there any tricks to getting the rear skid plate (PT228-35245) brackets on? I have a 2025 4Runner ORP (NON-Hybrid) and the brackets don’t seem like they’re going to work. I had no trouble with the others.

 

[bakutheleo]

I just finished installing the OEM aluminum front plate on my ORP hybrid and am getting to that shortly so I should be able to comment. I recall there were 2 identical looking parts (1 number off) for the rear differential plate on the web site--I had to call the dealer to determine the correct one. No idea what the difference is. WHen he searched using my VIN it only specified one, although for some reason when I search it shows both.

 

[toothpaste22]

Hi there. Are there any tricks to getting the rear skid plate (PT228-35245) brackets on? I have a 2025 4Runner ORP (NON-Hybrid) and the brackets don’t seem like they’re going to work. I had no trouble with the others.

It is a pain to get the brackets on for the rear diff. First, remove 5 or 6 bolts that hold the brake lines, tape the brake lines where it is close to the space of the bracket (avoid scratching it).
Make sure you get the correct orientation. The 2 brackets are interchangeable, left/right doesnt matter. However, theres a taller side of the top U-shape portion, that taller side goes toward the center of the vehicle, because the diff case is thicker toward the center.

Next, fit the rubber over the diff, pay attention to the orientation (similar to the brackets as described above). Then, try to slip the bracket over the rubber. It will take awhile. Add some sort of lubricant to assist, i used soapy water. With a little luck and many curses, you’ll get it to fit!
After that, it’s easy!

good luck!

 

[bakutheleo]

My apologies for my delayed promised response...didn't finish the install of the rear (differential) one until Sunday then kept forgetting to follow up here. And today it took me a while to find it again . First, thank you @toothpaste22 for the recommendation of soapy water. I actually just used a small amount of full-strength dish soap (Costco equivalent to Dawn I think). Before I remembered your suggestion I was fighting with getting the first one on at all, then remembered your tip...with the soap it slid on effortlessly. The procedure he listed was spot-on. I left the middle brake line bolt place but removed the other 2. The instructions I got with the part from the dealer said to remove 2 from one side and only 1 from the other, although I am not sure why. It definitely seems necessary to at least take off both from each side. Taking that middle one probably would be helpful but it is also more of a pain to get to so I did not bother. Definitely put the tape on; I recommend several layers. I was trying to be careful of course but still tore the tape a bit.

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