DIRTY POWER!!! - Power issues on AUX switches (don't run sensitive electronics like radios off AUX switches)

[Cranberry]

Well, I'm finally getting close to finishing up my guide trips this summer and proud to say I now have over 13,500 hard-use overland KM on my rig. I'll be spending the next few weeks posting updates on all my thoughts in different areas and reviews of all the equipment I've added, but I wanted to start immediately with this one as it was the biggest issue I've had to date.

At the start of spring, on our first convoy trip, I was getting a lot of complaints that my radio was choppy and digitized so badly that the other listeners could barely understand what I was saying. I took it as their radios being the issue, as mine was top of the line.

For context, I am running a Midland MXT575 50-watt radio with a 6 dB and a 3 dB antenna. I switch between them depending on the trail conditions. The radio is wired into the AUX always-on-when-powered wires.

Once we got to our first camp, I had one of the other guides I work with approach me and tell me to switch to handheld comms because my rig unit was so bad it was confusing the other clients. At this point, I started testing the unit and had the other guide use my Midland while I sat in his truck to hear it.

I have to admit, they have more patience than I do because the radio sounded so bad I was embarrassed to admit I owned it. The best way to compare the quality was like how a CB radio would sound if you drove under a large hydro tower cable system and got 5 seconds of interference, except this lasted the entire time, not just 5 seconds.

I shook the issue off as something with the radio I would resolve when we got back from our trip.

Later on that same night, we set up the Starlink that we powered off my AUX 2. My Starlink was wired into the roof rack and always worked on my Gen 5 4Runner, so I figured this one would be no issue as well. Lo and behold, the internet started cutting in and out, with the Wi-Fi intermittently going down or going from good range to no range at all. The internet was basically useless, with service ranging from 5 seconds of good use to 5 seconds of no signal at all. Eventually, on many occasions, the Starlink itself just stopped working and I would have to turn off the AUX switch and turn it back on. We ended up switching to the other guide's Starlink, and as soon as he powered up, no issues at all—full Wi-Fi internet in the middle of nowhere.

At this point, I knew something was wrong. Between my radio and internet, I figured it must be a connection issue or how I wired the electronics into the AUX switches.

Once I got back home, I ran a test and switched the radio over to a direct feed off the battery in the back. I powered up the radio and went for a ride while talking to my wife at home on her handheld, and the issue was resolved fully. She said I came in crystal clear, the best I've ever sounded on the radio. After switching over and having her talk through the truck radio to me in the house, I could hear the issue was 100% resolved. I then switched the Starlink over to a direct feed off the battery on a temporary pure sine wave inverter. Exact same thing—the problem was fixed immediately.

After all of this, I have concluded the AUX switch wiring is not clean power. After switching directly to battery feed, all my power issues went away and the interference issue was resolved.

I don't know if anyone else is going to have this same issue, but going forward, based on my experience, I would strongly suggest not running any sensitive electronics off the AUX switches. Keep it to lights, compressors, and winches, and use the built-in inverter for anything needing pure, clean energy.

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[Dead Horse]

OOOOOF man. That sucks!


I'd think that it would have started zapping $1,000 light bars by now if it were widespread...But this doesn't bode well for sure.

 

[josiahg52]

OOOOOF man. That sucks!


I'd think that it would have started zapping $1,000 light bars by now if it were widespread...But this doesn't bode well for sure.

If this is a dirty power issue, it's probably from a switching power supply via the auxiliary system, or perhaps a latent quality of the entire 12VDC system. Being that those $1000 light bar LEDs are already themselves supplied by an integral switching power supply, there would be no problem as long as the system is providing a nominal 12VDC.

 

[Nodak]

was that with the oem add on option for the 4 aux switches ???

(Pre Wired Aux Switches / $400 option)

 

[Cranberry]

I am currently running BAJA lights, warn 10s winch and ARB compressor off the AUX with no issues, dimming, surging of any sort.
I think it might just be for sensitive stuff where the power will be an issue

 

[Cranberry]

was that with the oem add on option for the 4 aux switches ???

(Pre Wired Aux Switches / $400 option)

im up in Canada, all hybrids come with the AUX option regardless

 

[Nodak]

im up in Canada, all hybrids come with the AUX option regardless

dam loonies, that is one option i wish all trims came with in usa

 

[T_Pomp]

Well, I'm finally getting close to finishing up my guide trips this summer and proud to say I now have over 13,500 hard-use overland KM on my rig. I'll be spending the next few weeks posting updates on all my thoughts in different areas and reviews of all the equipment I've added, but I wanted to start immediately with this one as it was the biggest issue I've had to date.

At the start of spring, on our first convoy trip, I was getting a lot of complaints that my radio was choppy and digitized so badly that the other listeners could barely understand what I was saying. I took it as their radios being the issue, as mine was top of the line.

For context, I am running a Midland MXT575 50-watt radio with a 6 dB and a 3 dB antenna. I switch between them depending on the trail conditions. The radio is wired into the AUX always-on-when-powered wires.

Once we got to our first camp, I had one of the other guides I work with approach me and tell me to switch to handheld comms because my rig unit was so bad it was confusing the other clients. At this point, I started testing the unit and had the other guide use my Midland while I sat in his truck to hear it.

I have to admit, they have more patience than I do because the radio sounded so bad I was embarrassed to admit I owned it. The best way to compare the quality was like how a CB radio would sound if you drove under a large hydro tower cable system and got 5 seconds of interference, except this lasted the entire time, not just 5 seconds.

I shook the issue off as something with the radio I would resolve when we got back from our trip.

Later on that same night, we set up the Starlink that we powered off my AUX 2. My Starlink was wired into the roof rack and always worked on my Gen 5 4Runner, so I figured this one would be no issue as well. Lo and behold, the internet started cutting in and out, with the Wi-Fi intermittently going down or going from good range to no range at all. The internet was basically useless, with service ranging from 5 seconds of good use to 5 seconds of no signal at all. Eventually, on many occasions, the Starlink itself just stopped working and I would have to turn off the AUX switch and turn it back on. We ended up switching to the other guide's Starlink, and as soon as he powered up, no issues at all—full Wi-Fi internet in the middle of nowhere.

At this point, I knew something was wrong. Between my radio and internet, I figured it must be a connection issue or how I wired the electronics into the AUX switches.

Once I got back home, I ran a test and switched the radio over to a direct feed off the battery in the back. I powered up the radio and went for a ride while talking to my wife at home on her handheld, and the issue was resolved fully. She said I came in crystal clear, the best I've ever sounded on the radio. After switching over and having her talk through the truck radio to me in the house, I could hear the issue was 100% resolved. I then switched the Starlink over to a direct feed off the battery on a temporary pure sine wave inverter. Exact same thing—the problem was fixed immediately.

After all of this, I have concluded the AUX switch wiring is not clean power. After switching directly to battery feed, all my power issues went away and the interference issue was resolved.

I don't know if anyone else is going to have this same issue, but going forward, based on my experience, I would strongly suggest not running any sensitive electronics off the AUX switches. Keep it to lights, compressors, and winches, and use the built-in inverter for anything needing pure, clean energy.

Are you sure the problem isn’t with the radio connection to the base unit? Midland uses those cheap, flexible Cat 5 like connectors and they fail. I had a midland and switched to a radio with a screw in type connector. My Midland radio was working intermittently like you mentioned yours was, power was constant but would only transmit intermittently when the connection was firmly pressed into the base.

 

[Cranberry]

Are you sure the problem isn’t with the radio connection to the base unit? Midland uses those cheap, flexible Cat 5 like connectors and they fail. I had a midland and switched to a radio with a screw in type connector. My Midland radio was working intermittently like you mentioned yours was, power was constant but would only transmit intermittently when the connection was firmly pressed into the base.

100% radio was fine. I tested multiple areas of possible failure including a whole new radio from my friend with identical results.
Problem went away as soon as i direct connected to the 12V battery and by passed any AUX system.

 

[BonRunner]

Can you rectify this with an aftermarket switch panel that hook up directly to the battery?

 

[Cranberry]

Can you rectify this with an aftermarket switch panel that hook up directly to the battery?

highly unlikely. I was only able to get clean power by attaching a pure synwave inverter to the battery direct

 

[Cranberry]

Can you rectify this with an aftermarket switch panel that hook up directly to the battery?

forgive my ignorance, i re read your question and think i miss understood initially.

as long ad the positive source is direct from 12V truck battery, you should be fine running after market switches from my experience. Running any sensitive electronics off factory AUX switches however may be an issue for users… based on my experience.

 

[Cranberry]

I want to clarify to anyone reading this thread that im NOT saying the factory AUX switches are bad or dangerous. They work great! Im running several other systems off the factory AUX system with absolutely no issues. Iv tested thoroughly after my radio issues and can confirm my BAJA lights, warn winch and ARB compressor (all running off the factory AUX buttons) work flawlessly.

I suspect the reason i had issues with the Midland radio and starlink was do to those pieces of equipment required almost perfect power sources to function correctly.

i dont think you should worry if your using a fridge, winch, lights , sound systems or anything thats not sensitive. Starlink and Midland radios are precise instruments that literally need perfect power sources to function correctly. So much so even the manufacturers specify state to avoid switches or fuse boxs and run direct off battery.

dont let my experience steer you away from the factory AUX system, just be mindful on radios or sensitive electronics

 

[bakutheleo]

Another option would be to use a DC 12V power conditioner.

 

[Archer]

Maybe I'm off here but minus the AUX switch, it sounds like a grounding issue.

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