Trailhunter steel skid plates weight (lbs weighed on scale)

[4running]

Here are the weights of the Trailhunter skid plates:

Trailhunter Engine skid plate is powder coated 3/32 steel and weighs ~ 22 lbs​

Trailhunter Transfer Case skid plate is also 3/32 powder coated steel and weighs ~ 15 lbs​

Weight and photos by @johnhicky

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[quadna71]

Thanks for taking the time to weigh them. Heavier than the aluminum skids for sure but fortunately the added weight has a pretty low center of gravity.

Couple questions about the pictures. It looks like you bolted up the front skid directly over the plastic skid - is that the case or am I interpreting the photo incorrectly? Just curious why you did that. And I've heard conflicting statements on whether the engine skid needs to be removed completely for oil changes - what is your take? If yes, do you think the stamped area in the center lines up with the drain plug? I wonder if it can be notched out to prevent removal for each oil change. I circled it in red on your photo below.

 

[John2112]

Those skid plates plus the heavier tires and roof rack must be why I'm only getting 15 MPG.

 

[odins_beer'd]

Thanks for taking the time to weigh them. Heavier than the aluminum skids for sure but fortunately the added weight has a pretty low center of gravity.

Couple questions about the pictures. It looks like you bolted up the front skid directly over the plastic skid - is that the case or am I interpreting the photo incorrectly? Just curious why you did that. And I've heard conflicting statements on whether the engine skid needs to be removed completely for oil changes - what is your take? If yes, do you think the stamped area in the center lines up with the drain plug? I wonder if it can be notched out to prevent removal for each oil change. I circled it in red on your photo below.

I took mine off to change the oil; however, you don’t need to remove all the bolts to slide them on and off. It only takes about 5 minutes with an impact driver, or maybe 10 by hand.

 

[Scrappopatamus]

If you're performing the maintenance yourself I can't see this an issue. If you're taking to a dealer or instant oil change facility, I see this as an added expense as well as bolts potentially being cross threaded, plates being scratched or damaged and so on. Not sure the expense of the TrailHunter bash plates, but there are many offerings that allow access for maintenance without removal. Lastly, why cut a hole in your new plates for access, that's silly unless you own a TrailHunter model IMO?

 

[ropdykex11]

If you're performing the maintenance yourself I can't see this an issue. If you're taking to a dealer or instant oil change facility, I see this as an added expense as well as bolts potentially being cross threaded, plates being scratched or damaged and so on. Not sure the expense of the TrailHunter bash plates, but there are many offerings that allow access for maintenance without removal. Lastly, why cut a hole in your new plates for access, that's silly unless you own a TrailHunter model IMO?

I have the Landcruiser skid plates (same as TH except they say "TOYOTA") on my TRD OR, and have gone in for 2 oil changes already (i drive a lot, lol) and they did not add an extra expense or even mention it.

I specifically got the OEM skid plates that say TOYOTA so that the dealership doesn't try to charge me extra.

"it came with the car! it says TOYOTA right on it!"

worked so far lol

I will be doing my own oil changes after the free ones are up.

 

[MikeD]

Thanks for taking the time to weigh them. Heavier than the aluminum skids for sure but fortunately the added weight has a pretty low center of gravity.

Couple questions about the pictures. It looks like you bolted up the front skid directly over the plastic skid - is that the case or am I interpreting the photo incorrectly? Just curious why you did that. And I've heard conflicting statements on whether the engine skid needs to be removed completely for oil changes - what is your take? If yes, do you think the stamped area in the center lines up with the drain plug? I wonder if it can be notched out to prevent removal for each oil change. I circled it in red on your photo below.

I have the Landcruiser skid ("TOYOTA" vs "TRAILHUNTER") that I installed a week ago. The area you circled is a lift point - those bolts to the left and right are directly into the frame cross piece behind the filter - it is not a cutout. I sure hope its meant as a lift point because that is where I've been lifting the truck every time. Its the center of that frame cross piece which is BETWEEN the front and mid plastic skid plates and is covered when they are replaced with this LC/TH skid.
Also - the instructions say - and I believe it IS required - to remove the plastic skids before installing the steel skid. I do not believe it would fit properly without removal of the plastic skids.
Also - I think the skid needs to be removed to get to both the drain plug and the filter. Can leave two of the six bolts attached for reinstallation ease. (BTW - the front passenger side bolt hole was slightly off center with the hole in the frame and made it tough to get the bolt to grab. I'll be slightly enlarging that hole so some oil change tech does not strip the bolt or frame threading.
Lastly (related) the dealer who did the first oil change apparently lost one of the bolts from the mid-skid because the one that was there was different length and smaller washer than the rest - so I guess I'll be checking the bolts whenever I have a dealer or other oil change done. This skid only uses 6 of the 8 bolts (4 for each plastic skid) so not an issue for me THIS time.

 

[Biff]

You have a part number for the Land Cruiser version skid plate?

 

[Keroppi]

You have a part number for the Land Cruiser version skid plate?

See previous Land Cruiser 250 skid plates thread here - https://www.4runner6g.com/forum/thr...alled-on-trd-off-road-heres-part-number.4530/

Part name: Toyota 2024 + Land Cruiser Front Skid Plate - Toyota (PT228-60242)
Part number: PT228-60242

 

[toothpaste22]

Thanks for taking the time to weigh them. Heavier than the aluminum skids for sure but fortunately the added weight has a pretty low center of gravity.

Couple questions about the pictures. It looks like you bolted up the front skid directly over the plastic skid - is that the case or am I interpreting the photo incorrectly? Just curious why you did that. And I've heard conflicting statements on whether the engine skid needs to be removed completely for oil changes - what is your take? If yes, do you think the stamped area in the center lines up with the drain plug? I wonder if it can be notched out to prevent removal for each oil change. I circled it in red on your photo below.

There is a small plastic cover that is riveted onto the front area of the engine skidplate, thats what you’re seeing there. It is not the existing plastic cover getting squished in between.

There is no oil access for the OEM plate, you need to remove it. That red circle is a jackpoint indication, and it does not line up for oil filter or plug. Dont make a cut out, it is easy to remove the plate, 5-10minutes at most.

 

[MikeD]

Since they are both described above and I happened to have both shipped to me (error on the part of the supplier (Nucar)), here is a comparison between the LC and TH skids. The straight vs beveled front edge did not seem to matter to fitment.

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