Recommended engine break-in and oil change frequency + factory oil analysis test (by Motor Oil Geek)

[CO/ZA]

This is true. What makes me wonder is whether a high quialit aftermarket filter with a better micron filtering rating is better to use than the OE Toyota filters. The aftermarket filters may filter better but what if the bypass valves aren't really calibrated to what Toyota specifies & are allowing unfiltered oil to bypass due to the much more efficient filtering of the media.

I'm sure a Wix or something will be better on micron rating, but it seems pointless really.

People stick with Denso-Toyota filters and there aren't any problems, ever.

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[pmedicj]

Checked out his other videos and oil comparison test with Amsoil (which I have been using in all my vehicles) I was glad to see that for turbo charged engines Amsoil came out strong along with other added benefits. Would be interesting to see how Toyota factory oil stacks up to it.

 

[SouthCoast]

Checked out his other videos and oil comparison test with Amsoil (which I have been using in all my vehicles) I was glad to see that for turbo charged engines Amsoil came out strong along with other added benefits. Would be interesting to see how Toyota factory oil stacks up to it.

I figure any oil is sufficient as long as it’s changed regularly. If you’re using the factory rating 0w20, it won’t make much difference to the turbo if you use the super expensive stuff versus the cheaper stuff. Frequency trumps price as additives will almost always be present at high ratios given a 3-5k oci. Personally, I use the Mobil 1 Hybrid 0w20 and don’t see any value in going to anything more expensive. To each their own though!

 

[drNick]

I figure any oil is sufficient as long as it’s changed regularly. If you’re using the factory rating 0w20, it won’t make much difference to the turbo if you use the super expensive stuff versus the cheaper stuff. Frequency trumps price as additives will almost always be present at high ratios given a 3-5k oci. Personally, I use the Mobil 1 Hybrid 0w20 and don’t see any value in going to anything more expensive. To each their own though!

Mobil 1 is a good oil. The word is that the Toyota OEM oil is made in North America by Exxon Mobil.

 

[CO/ZA]

Amsoil is an MLM scheme, there is no reason to buy it over anything sold at Walmart.

Toyota OEM oil is Mobil 1, with Toyota's own dose of additives.

Euro spec 0w-20 is better than either option in these turbo engines.

 

[morsk]

Interesting video, thanks for sharing. I will definitely be following this advice and changing my oil at 500, 2,000, and 5,000, which is pretty similar to what I had planned anyway.

Interesting how he doesn't change the oil filter until 5,000 - didn't know that.

 

[SouthCoast]

Interesting video, thanks for sharing. I will definitely be following this advice and changing my oil at 500, 2,000, and 5,000, which is pretty similar to what I had planned anyway.

Interesting how he doesn't change the oil filter until 5,000 - didn't know that.

I wouldn't follow the oil filter advise... He was basing his opinion on air filters. Cheap insurance to simply replace the filters.

 

[127.0.0.1]

the main thing about the proper 0-20 engine oil is that...under pressure, the correct additives change their physical state and provide protection only realized under pressure

The protection is pressure and temperature-activated.
Under normal hydrodynamic lubrication (full oil film),
these additives mostly just sit in solution.

It's only when the oil film breaks down under extreme pressure that the additives:

Are squeezed into direct contact with the metal
Experience enough heat and pressure to trigger the chemical reaction
Transform from liquid-phase molecules into solid-phase protective films
So yes — it's a genuine liquid-to-solid phase transition driven by
tribochemical reactions. The additives are essentially "programmed" to
sacrifice themselves at exactly the moment protection is most needed.


Oil consumption actually depletes EP additive reserves (not just base oil)
Oil change intervals exist partly because these additives get used up
High-performance oils (racing, heavy diesel) have higher concentrations of these additives

Mixing oils can sometimes cause EP additive chemistries to compete or interfere with each other

-----
Oh and 'does a slightly dirty oil filter work better than a brand new clean one ?'
Yes — to a point. This is a well-established principle in filtration science, and it applies to oil filters, air filters, and many industrial filters.


The "Filter Seasoning" Effect
A Brand New Filter

• The filter media (usually pleated cellulose, synthetic fiber, or a blend) has large, relatively open pores
• Very fine particles — smaller than the pore size — pass straight through
• A new filter actually has lower efficiency for catching the smallest particles
• It has low flow restriction (pressure drop across it is minimal)

🟡 A Slightly Used Filter

• Captured particles begin to bridge across pores, effectively making the filtration mesh finer
• This is called a filter cake or depth loading
• The filter now catches smaller particles than it could when new
• This is the sweet spot — improved efficiency with still-acceptable flow

A Heavily Clogged Filter

• Flow restriction becomes too high
• The bypass valve opens (most filters have one at ~10–15 PSI differential)
• When bypass is open, completely unfiltered oil goes straight to the engine
• This is worse than a new filter — it's essentially no filtration at all

 

[SouthCoast]

the main thing about the proper 0-20 engine oil is that...under pressure, the correct additives change their physical state and provide protection only realized under pressure

The protection is pressure and temperature-activated.
Under normal hydrodynamic lubrication (full oil film),
these additives mostly just sit in solution.

It's only when the oil film breaks down under extreme pressure that the additives:

Are squeezed into direct contact with the metal
Experience enough heat and pressure to trigger the chemical reaction
Transform from liquid-phase molecules into solid-phase protective films
So yes — it's a genuine liquid-to-solid phase transition driven by
tribochemical reactions. The additives are essentially "programmed" to
sacrifice themselves at exactly the moment protection is most needed.


Oil consumption actually depletes EP additive reserves (not just base oil)
Oil change intervals exist partly because these additives get used up
High-performance oils (racing, heavy diesel) have higher concentrations of these additives

Mixing oils can sometimes cause EP additive chemistries to compete or interfere with each other

-----
Oh and 'does a slightly dirty oil filter work better than a brand new clean one ?'
Yes — to a point. This is a well-established principle in filtration science, and it applies to oil filters, air filters, and many industrial filters.


The "Filter Seasoning" Effect
A Brand New Filter

• The filter media (usually pleated cellulose, synthetic fiber, or a blend) has large, relatively open pores
• Very fine particles — smaller than the pore size — pass straight through
• A new filter actually has lower efficiency for catching the smallest particles
• It has low flow restriction (pressure drop across it is minimal)

🟡 A Slightly Used Filter

• Captured particles begin to bridge across pores, effectively making the filtration mesh finer
• This is called a filter cake or depth loading
• The filter now catches smaller particles than it could when new
• This is the sweet spot — improved efficiency with still-acceptable flow

A Heavily Clogged Filter

• Flow restriction becomes too high
• The bypass valve opens (most filters have one at ~10–15 PSI differential)
• When bypass is open, completely unfiltered oil goes straight to the engine
• This is worse than a new filter — it's essentially no filtration at all

nice chatgpt response

 

[127.0.0.1]

nice chatgpt response

thanks. it's 100% truthful, just written and formatted better than I have time to do

 

[MikeK]

These are turbo motors. Change the oil often and use the best, most expensive oil. Too poor to afford good and frequent oil changes? Don't buy a $50,000+ turbo truck.

You don't need to use the best, most expensive oil based on the fact it's a turbo engine. That's flawed logic, but if you have money burning a hole in your pocket then go ahead.

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