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I'm diving back into the perilous world of "which oil should I choose" as I'm coming up the 500 miles mark soon and want to make a decision. My original plan was to stick with 0W-20 (I'm in New York, so I don't think I need to go to a higher weight + I generally feel better sticking with the printed manual), using PENNZOIL Ultra Platinum.
But, I'm reading that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum may or may not have reformulated away from GTL recently? GTL facility hit in Qatar due to the war? Idk, but I no longer see "gas" anywhere on the packaging when I quickly stopped by an AutoZone for a second, so I am concerned it's not exactly what it used to be and nobody really knows.
Seriously considering Mobil 1 ESP 0W-20. My question: I only see Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20. Is that the same thing or better? Good for this truck?
1:30AM thoughts...
A 0w20 has a HTHS of roughly 2.6. You’ll want something a bit stronger than that to provide turbo protection. You can use 0w20, 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30. I use ESP 5w30 with a HTHS of 3.5
That is the one, yes.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-x2-0w-20
I'm not sure how the Iran war has affected the Shell Pearl facility in Qatar, probably not for the better. Pennzoil is great stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to use it either - especially their Platinum Euro line.
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I use Pennzoil ultra premium full synthetic 0W-20
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I did the first oil change at approximately 1,300 miles on the odometer. The factory, break-in oil was replaced with Pennzoil Ultra Premium Full Synthetic 0W-20. I also took a sample of the factory oil for analysis.
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Here's the oil analysis results from my first oil change. It shows the normally expected higher metals and silicon values from new engine break-in wear. But high values for metals should decrease to normal values after the next few oil changes. I'll probably do my next oil change when it reaches 5,000 miles on the odometer or sooner rather than waiting until 5,343 miles (1,343 mi odometer + 4,000 mi) when the lab advised when I can do my next oil change.
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This is your first oil change, correct?Here's the oil analysis results from my first oil change. It shows the normally expected higher metals and silicon values from new engine break-in wear. But high values for metals should decrease to normal values after the next few oil changes. I'll probably do my next oil change at 5,000 miles or sooner rather than waiting until 5,343 miles (1,343 mi + 4,000 mi) when the lab advised when I can do my next oil change.
Wow, viscosity almost in the 0w16 range… and only 1300 miles
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Wonder why...is the degradation or low viscosity because it's factory break-in oil? Is that typical? Did the factory put in lower quality oil? Analysis indicates no fuel dilution and no moisture were in the oil sample. What values did you have for your first oil change? Can you share the oil analysis results that you got from your first oil change? I'm curious now.
Maybe I just need to go on longer drives....
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I noticed that too. You're still in-grade, but just barely. The reasons could be many.
I think you should consider doing your next oil change at 3,000 instead of 5,000 and see what results you get. I see you're going with PUP 0W-20...me too
Lake Speed recommends first oil changes to be: 500, 1,500, 3,000, 5,000.
I just did my first oil change at 600 and plan to do my next one at 1,500.
But you're almost-out-of-grade results have me thinking that it may be worth seriously considering moving onto PUP 5W-30 (or ESP 0W-30) when I'm out of warranty.
I think you should consider doing your next oil change at 3,000 instead of 5,000 and see what results you get. I see you're going with PUP 0W-20...me too
Lake Speed recommends first oil changes to be: 500, 1,500, 3,000, 5,000.
I just did my first oil change at 600 and plan to do my next one at 1,500.
But you're almost-out-of-grade results have me thinking that it may be worth seriously considering moving onto PUP 5W-30 (or ESP 0W-30) when I'm out of warranty.
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Yeah, I think I'm going to do my next oil change sooner at 3,000 miles rather than at 5,000 miles. Thanks @morsk and @SouthCoastI noticed that too. You're still in-grade, but just barely. The reasons could be many.
I think you should consider doing your next oil change at 3,000 instead of 5,000 and see what results you get. I see you're going with PUP 0W-20...me too
Lake Speed recommends first oil changes to be: 500, 1,500, 3,000, 5,000.
I just did my first oil change at 600 and plan to do my next one at 1,500.
But you're almost-out-of-grade results have me thinking that it may be worth seriously considering moving onto PUP 5W-30 (or ESP 0W-30) when I'm out of warranty.
The viscosity sheer is what led me to move to 5w30 ESP. You don't need to wait until the warranty is up though. International manuals, specifically Mexico, indicate 5w30 is perfectly fine for an alternative viscosity. While fuel dilution is the typical culprit most think of, it's more than likely the turbo and excess heat generated. I'll attach my UOA results for inspection. They do show a gradual increase in viscosity margin over the original two, but not to the point where I would trust the 0w20 to do it's job in this platform. You'll see my mileage at each oci is relatively low too. Again, switching to 5w30 will not void your warranty. You'll notice the fuel dilution was essentially zero. The only remaining factors are the turbo, cam phasers and mechanical effects, and excess heatI noticed that too. You're still in-grade, but just barely. The reasons could be many.
I think you should consider doing your next oil change at 3,000 instead of 5,000 and see what results you get. I see you're going with PUP 0W-20...me too
Lake Speed recommends first oil changes to be: 500, 1,500, 3,000, 5,000.
I just did my first oil change at 600 and plan to do my next one at 1,500.
But you're almost-out-of-grade results have me thinking that it may be worth seriously considering moving onto PUP 5W-30 (or ESP 0W-30) when I'm out of warranty.
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