Why go with 17" wheels over factory 18" wheels?

[rosnaby]

um ???

how does the SL load rating vs a C load rating have anything to do with traction?

Basically just dont want to get SL’s, and dont want E’s, so been riding shitty highways everywhere… very anecdotal but I was just chiming in on how annoying shopping for 18s is compared to 17

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[zgreen]

Hey Zach - still waiting on parts to get in but the upgrade includes Westcott Preload kit. I’ve gone ahead and re-pinned the liner up front and did the ARK Crash Bracket Delete to prep. I’ll let you know once everything is in place but I’m hoping to avoid rub issues.

Awesome. Thanks man!

 

[Nodak]

Basically just dont want to get SL’s, and dont want E’s, so been riding shitty highways everywhere… very anecdotal but I was just chiming in on how annoying shopping for 18s is compared to 17

i am the opposite. only run SL tires on the tundra and the 4R. cant really justify the cost of C/E load tires since we maybe might do 1% of total driving off road to need it.
did try duratrac's (RT) in SL on the 2018 and 2023 tundra but now after having them on the 23 tundra, they are just not worth it after 20k miles / 2yrs. they are too loud and have gotten completely useless in snow. going to be switching over to defender ltx ms2 on the 4R and tundra when i can.

even the wife has complained about how crappy the tundra is in snow with the duratrac's which she didnt complain when they were ont he 2018 tundra.

 

[TrdProGirl84]

More clearance for off-roading. Meaning more tire less wheel. I stuck with 18”s personally though

 

[rosnaby]

i am the opposite. only run SL tires on the tundra and the 4R. cant really justify the cost of C/E load tires since we maybe might do 1% of total driving off road to need it.
did try duratrac's (RT) in SL on the 2018 and 2023 tundra but now after having them on the 23 tundra, they are just not worth it after 20k miles / 2yrs. they are too loud and have gotten completely useless in snow. going to be switching over to defender ltx ms2 on the 4R and tundra when i can.

even the wife has complained about how crappy the tundra is in snow with the duratrac's which she didnt complain when they were ont he 2018 tundra.

Realizing now, even the 4R loaded up really doesnt need more than SL for what ill be doing (maybe 10-20% offroading but not much serious rock crawling and if i ever did, i wouldnt be as weight loaded so not as much of a concern as i originally thought). I guess people go E for comfort of mind which is why I almost went for them, but seems overkill for most.

 

[Nodak]

Realizing now, even the 4R loaded up really doesnt need more than SL for what ill be doing (maybe 10-20% offroading but not much serious rock crawling and if i ever did, i wouldnt be as weight loaded so not as much of a concern as i originally thought). I guess people go E for comfort of mind which is why I almost went for them, but seems overkill for most.

even with "E" tires, on some technical trails, you can still get some nasty punctures. granted they are more robust than a SL but not by much, 2 belted plys on the side wall vs a SL with none. the 10 ply "E" are mostly in the main tread.

 

[JCP]

more sidewall, more grip overall, more resistance to chunk hitting rims
more float when airing down

Yup and 17's are generally lighter

 

[Cranberry]

avid off roader here - the difference is significant when dealing with rock gardens. My trips typically require airing down to 15 - 18 PSI, running 15 PSI on 17' rims still gives me a decent amount of side wall before i need to worry about rocks pinching the rim and having a blow out. I can say my first issue with the 2026 was just last week where i aired down and felt a little pucker in my butt hole when i saw how little forgiveness i had in the side wall. m 1" may not seem like much, but when airing down its definitely concerning. 17 is the sweet spot if your planning rockky trails or aggressive stuff. If you primarily play in sand or snow the 18's will be fine, just dont crank the wheel to hard or you risk rolling a rim.

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