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papadop88

papadop88

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Those look pretty damn trick. 1” front and anything for the rear.
These hats come with the whole kit for the Pros, so yes, there will be rear pucks along with the pre-load collars coming on Tuesday. I only want a small lift in the front so might only put the top hats on with the rear .75" puck in the rear.
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matrixkiwi

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Are you putting larger tires on?
Looking forward to the photos.
(I am ordering a TRD Pro)
 

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Popadop, I known you will post photos after the lift. Can you please measure before and after the lift so we all can see how much it changed? Interested to so what it looks like and measures out if you only do the top hats. They look so good! I already feel the front is so high with the PRO hood and Scoop. Can't imagine how it will feel visually to drive with it raised much higher so I can totally see why you are considering just raising it half way and keeping that rake as factory as possible. You have already raised your center of gravity with those sweet larger tires. Once the pre-collar lift is installed I want to see it is possible to re-install the front mud flaps. I really like them and I don't want to ditch them if possible when I upgrade to the 295 Recons.
 
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So the remaining pieces of the lift for the Pro have arrived. Two rear pucks for a .75" rear lift and the front pre-load collars. I'm still going back n forth on whether I want to lift it. It does sit pretty nicely on the stock Fox suspension (has that squat stance) but sometimes I look at it and think another 1" would also look really good.

If I do decide to move forward with the lift, Im going to see if there are enough threads on the OEM top hat bolts with just the pre-load collar vs installing the new 1" top hats. I will not be adding both because I feel it will sit way to high and quite honestly give it a reverse rake look. Not sure why WD did that. But before I can confirm that, I'm going to call them and discuss, as well as take measurements.

As it currently sits, here are the measurements:
- From the bottom of the wheel to the fender. I do this because It's hard to find the center of the hub because of how much the tire sidewalls bulges out. But I can hook the tape measure to the bottom of the rim and take an accurate reading...

DF: 30.75"
DR: 31.75"
PF: 30.90"
PR: 32.00"

As you can see, the passenger side sits just a tiny bit taller...usually the case with most vehicles and not noticeable to the naked eye. The rears also sit approximately 1" higher than the fronts.

Therefore, if the collars or the new top hats provide a 1" front lift and the rear pucks provide a .75" lift in the rear, it should tighten the gap by about a quarter of an inch, front to back. I think that would look perfect.

More to come...
 
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I hear ya, been going back and forth on a lift also, bit the bullet and just ordered the 1" PEAK front. I asked about if I would need anything in the rear and they said 1" will level the Pro out. So no rear lift for now until I see how it sits.
 
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I hear ya, been going back and forth on a lift also, bit the bullet and just ordered the 1" PEAK front. I asked about if I would need anything in the rear and they said 1" will level the Pro out. So no rear lift for now until I see how it sits.
A 1" puck will give you .75" lift in the rear. Won't level it out completely, but pretty damn close. You never want the measurements to equal anyways as it will optically give you a reverse rake. That always looks bad. And if you load it up, you know have a squatter stance. Always want a .75"-1" rake at the very least.

So, based on my measurements (your Pro could be different as many are), if you only install a 1" puck in the front, it will level it out and will look off. But yes, you can try the front first and see how it settles once you do the alignment and then decide what you want to do with the rear.

Alas, why I hate puck lifts and always go with full King suspension so I can adjust as I see fit. BUT, I like these Fox QS3s.
 

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So the remaining pieces of the lift for the Pro have arrived. Two rear pucks for a .75" rear lift and the front pre-load collars. I'm still going back n forth on whether I want to lift it. It does sit pretty nicely on the stock Fox suspension (has that squat stance) but sometimes I look at it and think another 1" would also look really good.

If I do decide to move forward with the lift, Im going to see if there are enough threads on the OEM top hat bolts with just the pre-load collar vs installing the new 1" top hats. I will not be adding both because I feel it will sit way to high and quite honestly give it a reverse rake look. Not sure why WD did that. But before I can confirm that, I'm going to call them and discuss, as well as take measurements.

As it currently sits, here are the measurements:
- From the bottom of the wheel to the fender. I do this because It's hard to find the center of the hub because of how much the tire sidewalls bulges out. But I can hook the tape measure to the bottom of the rim and take an accurate reading...

DF: 30.75"
DR: 31.75"
PF: 30.90"
PR: 32.00"
Papa - Thanks for the data. Could you clarify where on the fender your measuring to? And when. You say “bottom of wheel” do you mean bottom of tire (the ground) or the edge of the wheel closest to the ground? (Photo would be great.

I’m interested in specific measurement differences between your Pro and my ORP AND how my measurements change when I get the Peak spacer installed. (I do NOT want reverse rake so if the 1.25” kit (assuredly about 5/8” thick) is too much i may have to do the rear too…
 
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Papa - Thanks for the data. Could you clarify where on the fender your measuring to? And when. You say “bottom of wheel” do you mean bottom of tire (the ground) or the edge of the wheel closest to the ground? (Photo would be great.

I’m interested in specific measurement differences between your Pro and my ORP AND how my measurements change when I get the Peak spacer installed. (I do NOT want reverse rake so if the 1.25” kit (assuredly about 5/8” thick) is too much i may have to do the rear too…
I measure from the bottom of the wheel (rim). In other words, where the bead is (edge of the wheel closest to the ground...if you take the measurements yourself, you will see what I mean). Never the tire as PSI fluctuates. I usually do from the center hub to the bottom of the fender, but the tire bulge doesn't allow me to find the center of the hub so I use the bottom of the wheel.
 
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So here's a video of the WD kit I received for the Pros. As you will see, no 1/2" top shim in this kit. Instead they provide the 1" top hats with the preload collars.

I spoke with WD this morning and they stated the following:

  • They have test fitted these on several Pros and they state that the combo of the top hat and preload collar, with the 1" rear puck gives it an exact level. To me, that means that it will have a reverse rake, optically, so that's definitely not something I'm going to do. I do not like perfectly leveled trucks because optically they look like they have a squat and if you load them up even slightly, they sag.
  • From WD: Preload collar by itself gives you a 1.5" lift. If I can fit this and not have an issue with the OEM top hat bolts not having enough thread, then this is the way I'm going. Only installing the collar because it doesn't mess with the geometry of the suspension at all.
  • From WD: The 1" top hat alone gives you 1" lift. Therefore, combined with the collar, you will get a 2.5" lift. Way too high on a Pro for my taste. That would throw off the geometry of the Fox suspension tremendously.
  • I will only put the 1" top hats on if I cannot fit the collar with the OEM top hat bolts because supposedly, they're too short.

 

BillyG4Runner6G

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Papa, do you know if your mechanic will have to totally disasemble the front strut to install the WS top hats if you are not adding the bottom preload collar? If I understand correctly you would just have to remove the front strut, keeping it intact and add the Top Hat and reinstall. Adding the the bottom preload collar is much more involved with them having to remove the factory sping and bottom collar and replace it with the thicker WS collar.
I have not been able to find a video of anyone installing WS leveling kit on a 2025 4R TRD PRO. Would be cool if you were able to get some video footage of them installing you kit. Regardless, looking to seeing what you decide and the final stance and measurments. I think you are right on with idea of keeping the hunkered down look with the larger tires. The PRO's already have a decent lift so just a little more should perfect!
Also, have you removed the front fender crash plates to give you more space to keep the front tires from rubbing?
 
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Papa, do you know if your mechanic will have to totally disasemble the front strut to install the WS top hats if you are not adding the bottom preload collar? If I understand correctly you would just have to remove the front strut, keeping it intact and add the Top Hat and reinstall. Adding the the bottom preload collar is much more involved with them having to remove the factory sping and bottom collar and replace it with the thicker WS collar.
I have not been able to find a video of anyone installing WS leveling kit on a 2025 4R TRD PRO. Would be cool if you were able to get some video footage of them installing you kit. Regardless, looking to seeing what you decide and the final stance and measurments. I think you are right on with idea of keeping the hunkered down look with the larger tires. The PRO's already have a decent lift so just a little more should perfect!
Also, have you removed the front fender crash plates to give you more space to keep the front tires from rubbing?
Yes they will have to disassemble the strut for the top hats. These aren’t pucks that you just add to the top of the oem top hats, like everyone else’s puck lifts. If you just want that, I’d recommend Peak Suspension pucks. These WD top hats replace the oem top hats while adding an additional 1” thickness, so technically these are a much better option in terms of build quality, but much more involved.

I’m still mulling it over though. I just can’t get myself to lift it on pucks instead of going with true full suspension lift like Kings again or the new Bilstein 8112s (which I hear are even better).

if I do end up pulling the trigger, I won’t be around at the shop to record anything. They come pick up my truck from my house and take it to the shop and deliver it back to me while I’m usually on biz travel. Disassembling struts and installing lifts are actually pretty easy if you have the right tools. Used to do them myself in the past but I just have the shop do them now. There’s videos out there from Land Crusiers and Tacomas that show you the process. It’s the same for the 4Runners.

And yes, i removed the safety plates on mine just to add more clearance.
 

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Hey Papa! Love the build. And thanks for the grill light install DIY video! Money....

Question. Where did you hide the passenger side ditch light wiring? I have the RIGID ditch light setup as well, and can't find a good spot to hide the passenger side wiring. I was going to go down the fender and across the radiator, but the harness is no where long enough to cover both sides doing it that way. Let me know good sir! Thanks...Wes
 
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Hey Papa! Love the build. And thanks for the grill light install DIY video! Money....

Question. Where did you hide the passenger side ditch light wiring? I have the RIGID ditch light setup as well, and can't find a good spot to hide the passenger side wiring. I was going to go down the fender and across the radiator, but the harness is no where long enough to cover both sides doing it that way. Let me know good sir! Thanks...Wes
Love to help, but 626 Customs did the install so I have no idea how they wired them and hid them unfortunately.
 
 







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