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Widow Door rattle / vibration source when playing music and how to actually fix door rattle permanently

enginir

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Hi all, I replied to a previous thread (https://www.4runner6g.com/forum/thr...d-with-foam-insulation.5618/page-3#post-91950) saying that i found the source of the door rattle and how to actually fix it. I did it in my driver side door and as promised, I documented how to do it when I was fixing my passenger side door.

Here is a video of inside the door showing what part is actually causing the door rattle that seems like it is coming from the B pilar but is actually in the top right of the door (when looking from inside the car).



The rattle is coming from the window run bracket where it meets the top part of the car door as seen in the video, I was able to wiggle it with very light pressure to get a metal on metal noise. This is the exact spot where it rattles. (don't hate on me not knowing the actual name lol)
An easy way to check if this is the source of your door rattle is to turn up your music and base then listen for the rattle. If you roll down your window all the way and the rattle goes away or is less intense then this is the source of the rattle.

Here is a step by step guide on how to do it: (had to add images as share links on this thread due to size of images and videos)

1. You need to take apart the door trim (it is easy, I pretty much just used my hands and a screw driver to get the screws out. In some places I used a bicycle tub prying tool to get some of the clips on the white piece inside the door.) I used a guide on how to take the door trim off.
To avoid reinventing the wheel here is the youtube video ()

2. There are three bolts holding the door panel trim down you will have to take off. Here are photos with bolts circled: (upload stopped working so here are share links to the photos:

20251124_013518207_iOS.jpg (click to view)

20251124_013525361_iOS.jpg

3. Door without panels looks like this ( 20251124_014244410_iOS ).

4. Then you will need to remove the two bolts holding the window run and remove the window run from the door to insulate it. I used amazon basics automotive butyl noise insulation. Here is a video of how to remove the window run ( Removing window run.mp4 )

5. Clean any surface you will be adding noise insulation too prior to application. I used a clean rag and 70% isopropyl alcohol.

6. Now we add noise insulation to the window run (you only have to add it to the top part shown here ( 20251124_014757859_iOS ). But with my OCD I covered the whole thing. here is what it looks like after being covered: ( window run insulated.mp4 )
  • It is important to get the whole bracket at the top insulated ( i went back to add some insulation as there was one spot in the video that I missed). Here is an image of the final insulation at the top ( 20251124_024401683_iOS ) it does not have to be pretty but pressing it down firmly is important to reduce the thickness of the insulation and to insure long term adhesion.
7. I also installed noise insulation (two layers) between the bracket mount and door panel interface (between the bolts). I did this before but it did not get the rattle to go away full but I did not remove it so it probably helps.

8. Install the bracket back on: Install window run braket back on..mp4

9. Put bolts back on the window run bracket and door back together.

10. you are done if all you want is get the door rattle to go away.

I also decided to added the sound insulation to the rest of the door but this took a long time and was very tedious but does improve sound quality. Since i already was working on the door I decided to do it. Here is what my door looks line insulated: 20251124_050733165_iOS.jpg


Hope this helps!
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Tarekith

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Thanks, mine just started this rattling today so this is very helpful and timely.
 

DrDripz

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I don't even have 1000 miles yet and mines already rattling. It's driving me insane.😤 Glad I found a write up on this so I'm not trying to pull the door card off blind.
 

Tarekith

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Just wanted to say thanks again for posting this. Finally got some nice weather so I took a couple hours to pull my panels, fix the rattle, and add some more dampening sheet pieces to the doors while the inners were off. Rattle fixed, and the doors sound better now I added the sound dampening.

If anyone else does this, I’d also recommend checking all the screws holding the two halves of the inner door panel together once you pull it off. Some of mine were almost a full turn loose. Likewise the screws for the door speakers, mine were also almost a full turn loose. Might as well tighten everything up while it’s apart.

Lastly, remember that these sound dampening sheets are primarily to reduce the metal door panels resonating. You’ll get some minimal sound proofing in the cabin as a result, but you don;t need to completely cover the interior door panel for that. It can be a lot easier to just cut smaller strips and patches to cover the larger exposed sections of the doors, and not worry about meticulously cutting out each screw hole, cable mounting, and bolt location. You do you of course, just might not be all that much different for the extra work that requires. There’s thicker sheets than this Amazon stuff if you really want to reduce sound transmission through the door panels in a more meaningful way.

Just my $0.02.
 
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horbit

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I sound deadened my doors completely (inner, outer, and foam layer) and can hear this window run rattle with deep bass notes. Going to buy some closed cell foam tape and give it a shot. I don't think it needs to be fully covered due to all the bends in the metal. I will focus on the top and bottom and report back.
 

Tarekith

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I sound deadened my doors completely (inner, outer, and foam layer) and can hear this window run rattle with deep bass notes.
You need to remove the window guide and cover the top of that with something, just adding sound deadening to the door panel won’t fix the rattle.
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