Running switch board off prewired aux for more switches

[rosnaby]

Is running a switch board off prewired auxillary 4, which is rated for 10a, a bad idea if im just trying to add the ability in the future for a couple different small draw options in the future like additional fog, winch solenoid/relay, and f you lights in the back? My aux 1 and 2 go to my ditch lights currently, and my plan was to use aux 3 for a car lighter/flame source as it really needs 15a, and aux 5 for an interior light im adding with its own switch that probably draws 1a. I would also be fully aware not to run all the new circuits at once on the new board.

Open to other suggestions on how to most easily accomplish keeping some switches open in my orp, as only things in right now are ditch lights at aux 1/2, but i really want a flame source/car lighter, winch relay, additional interior light, and additional fog and reverse lights, and i dont want to wire into the back battery considering im already drawing from these aux switches.

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[BonRunner]

Is running a switch board off prewired auxillary 4, which is rated for 10a, a bad idea if im just trying to add the ability in the future for a couple different small draw options in the future like additional fog, winch solenoid/relay, and f you lights in the back? My aux 1 and 2 go to my ditch lights currently, and my plan was to use aux 3 for a car lighter/flame source as it really needs 15a, and aux 5 for an interior light im adding with its own switch that probably draws 1a. I would also be fully aware not to run all the new circuits at once on the new board.

Open to other suggestions on how to most easily accomplish keeping some switches open in my orp, as only things in right now are ditch lights at aux 1/2, but i really want a flame source/car lighter, winch relay, additional interior light, and additional fog and reverse lights, and i dont want to wire into the back battery considering im already drawing from these aux switches.

Yeah, that’s a sketchy and pretty half-assed way to do it, man. Running an entire auxiliary switchboard off a single 10A factory prewired circuit is just asking for blown fuses and massive voltage drop headaches.

First off, why the hell are ditch lights taking up both Aux 1 and Aux 2? If it’s just a standard left/right pair of ditch pods, wire them together onto a single aux switch. That immediately frees up a whole dedicated circuit right out of the gate.

Second, trusting yourself "not to turn on too many things at once" on a 10A feed is famous last words. The second you accidentally click your rear chase lights while your fog pods or winch relay trigger is hot, you’re popping that 10A fuse. Plus, feeding high-current accessories backwards through the factory harness wire gauge is a terrible habit.

If you really need that many accessories down the line, don't tap into a 10A OEM switch line to power a distribution panel. Get a proper solid-state auxiliary switch hub (like an 8-gang panel or an Auxbeam/Voswitch setup).

Run a dedicated fused power lead straight from the battery to the hub's control box in the engine bay, and let that manage all your extra lights, winch triggers, and high-draw gear. Keep the clean OEM Toyota aux buttons for simple individual stuff like your interior lighting or high-priority pods. Don't daisy-chain switchboards off low-amp factory pigtails.

 

[rosnaby]

1 and 2 are currently amber drl 1 and bright white 2, could run them together cuz the ambers are kinda pointless in reality, but I am diy and honestly did a decent job for my first install so i dont want to undo those and i do like the amber look sometimes haha. Also I do get the overall message, clearly thats why im sending out feelers, but my battery is in the back and I just cant understand what fuse id be tapping into in the fuse box in my engine bay with the auxillary switch hub? I feel like all the open ones are 10-15a rated unless you tap an existing and I dont want to do that? Seems like wiring off the pre existing is the same if thats the only open ones i can find, but I dont really understand.

Was thinking of just making my switch panel in the back by the battery for my non important things like lights, but really want it up front and then I know I run the risk of running wire too long?

 

[BonRunner]

1 and 2 are currently amber drl 1 and bright white 2, could run them together cuz the ambers are kinda pointless in reality, but I am diy and honestly did a decent job for my first install so i dont want to undo those and i do like the amber look sometimes haha. Also I do get the overall message, clearly thats why im sending out feelers, but my battery is in the back and I just cant understand what fuse id be tapping into in the fuse box in my engine bay with the auxillary switch hub? I feel like all the open ones are 10-15a rated unless you tap an existing and I dont want to do that? Seems like wiring off the pre existing is the same if thats the only open ones i can find, but I dont really understand.

Was thinking of just making my switch panel in the back by the battery for my non important things like lights, but really want it up front and then I know I run the risk of running wire too long?

Watch this video on how to wire a switch panel for Hybrid system in the engine bay. Pretty easy.



You don't need to buy their overpriced switch panel. There's plenty of similar units on Amazon for half the cost.

 

[rosnaby]

Watch this video on how to wire a switch panel for Hybrid system in the engine bay. Pretty easy.



You don't need to buy their overpriced switch panel. There's plenty of similar units on Amazon for half the cost.

I see, hes actually getting 12v power from the fuse box, makes a lot more sense now… the other video i watch the guy tapped an open fuse. Thanks for this

 

[Nodak]

lol thats like plugging in a item into a cheap power strip that is plugged into another cheap power strip that is plugged into a 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong cord.

or something like this

 

[ROBERT18452]

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[bakutheleo]

If you want to feed something with higher power than the aux switch allows you can just have the aux switch power a relay (mechanical or solid state) that handles high power, then feed power to the load direct from a main 12V source (well, through an appropriate fuse or breaker!).

 

[josiahg52]

If you want to feed something with higher power than the aux switch allows you can just have the aux switch power a relay (mechanical or solid state) that handles high power, then feed power to the load direct from a main 12V source (well, through an appropriate fuse or breaker!).

I was going to post this. It could be a two stage arming system, maybe for lights that have no business being used on the road

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