It provides almost double the light. Just more of a colder blue/white light than the oem ones. Definitely worth having even with the optional pillar lights.
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Liftgate Light Installed - Easy DIY
- Thread starter 4x4PriusRunner
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Can confirm, and 100% worth the $50.
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Currently at Overland Expo West in Flagstaff AZ and I spoke to the folks at Diode Dynamics about this light because I really want a dual color option (white/red) that I can switch between. From the sounds of it they weren’t aware of this lighting spot on the hatch but fingers crossed a manufacturer comes out with a dual color option.
gygooya - I installed mine the other day . Took me a lot longer than 5 minutes ! How did you run the wires from the hatch to the truck ? I fished mine thru the rubber boot at the top of the hatch . Had to cut the wire cause the connector was too big to get thru the boot . Connected to left cargo light .
I love the extra light back there ! Definitely worth $50 .
I love the extra light back there ! Definitely worth $50 .
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I connected through the power lock on the hatch and ran it to where the cut out was. Someone posted this video of installing on a rav4
I just received one and the light doesn't work, randomly goes on/off/dim with handling, mostly off, just occasionally on for a second.
No shipping damage, either physical or water. The wiring harness & connectors are good. I measured 12.8v at the solder blobs on the pcb while the light was off. So something on the pcb is flakey.
It was drop shipped directly from china and the customer service hasn't responded to email yet but it hasn't been a full day yet. Definitely not worth $50 if they don't fix it.
update... never mind. I had no idea it was touch sensitive. I checked it out again and that's it.
Now the only problem is it seems to be about impossible to route the wire without cutting the boot. I'm trying to use a 60 inch zip tie as a fish tape, even with wire pull lube, and I can't get it to poke through inside the tube alongside the wires. It's probably clamped or taped tight around the bundle somewhere just out of sight up inside the door.
No shipping damage, either physical or water. The wiring harness & connectors are good. I measured 12.8v at the solder blobs on the pcb while the light was off. So something on the pcb is flakey.
It was drop shipped directly from china and the customer service hasn't responded to email yet but it hasn't been a full day yet. Definitely not worth $50 if they don't fix it.
update... never mind. I had no idea it was touch sensitive. I checked it out again and that's it.
Now the only problem is it seems to be about impossible to route the wire without cutting the boot. I'm trying to use a 60 inch zip tie as a fish tape, even with wire pull lube, and I can't get it to poke through inside the tube alongside the wires. It's probably clamped or taped tight around the bundle somewhere just out of sight up inside the door.
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The led lamp only comes on when the lights inside come on . Also has a tilt switch so it only comes on when the hatch is not quite all the way up .
I thought of that possibility, but it's off in any orientation including laying flat (the same as with the door open). If it's a tilt sensor, then it's a broken one.
However someone in another thread saidthe light is touch sensitive, they can touch it to turn it on & off. That could definitely explain what I saw. I will have to check it out specifically testing for that rather than just random handling and moving around.
Maybe it has both tilt and touch for different reasons because the off-while-closed certainly makes sense since it would be shining directly forward.
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Anyone installed it on sr5 with 3rd row? Where does it piggy back to?
I didn't see anywhere else where someone made a 4runner specific video. I used the Rav4 video someone else posted, and it was basically the same install. I uploaded that video to youtube if anyone wants to watch how to install the light:
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same as you, i have the model without electric hatch. where did you hide the wire inside the hatch? on the side of the glass? not trying to drill holes into the actual wire channel to run it.
also, good call on snipping the connector off. the rubber boots are very tight!
I don't have a power lift gate either. SR5.
It is possible to run the wires through the large boot, then down the drivers side. There is a large black plastic cover to remove to access that area. No tricks to that just unscrew & remove. I used that big zip tie to help pull the wire through the area you can't reach. Inside the gate I taped the new wire to an existing harness at several points along the way from the boot down the driver side (well as far as I could reach through the opening) to keep it clear of the widow when it retracts. I actuated the window to verify before closing it all back up. The wire can feed from the drivers side over to the middle of the door safely by going right along that other existing harness.
To get the boot apart first just pull the rubber away where it meets the body. It doesn't extend into the body, it's just held by a plastic retainer ring on the inside. You can just pull it off. Then there is a white plastic retainer oval ring left behind in the hole. It's just held in by 4 clips that you can work loose with a spudger. The boot and the retaining ring stays on the bundle, don't bother trying to disassemble the ring evennthough it looks like it comes apart. Just work the rubber back onto the ring, and then later it just snaps back into the hole
Only real problem is you can't get through the flex boot at the hinge on the vehicle side without damage. The boot has a membrane that is tightly strapped around the wire bundle and seals from the bundle to the outer shell. You cannot insert *anything* new into the middle with the wires. I even tried greasing up a big zip tie with conduit pull lube and poking it down the middle. Not a chance.
You have to pierce the membrane. The area is inside the body so it should never be wet there in theory but you know with automotive there is no such thing as too much sealing or too many layers of barrier. That membrane is there for a reason.
Power (in my case) comes from the plug for the optional extra cargo lights in the pillar next to the jack storage. I have those lights but the plug is there whether you have the lights or not. The wire goes up the pillar and over to the boot pretty easy. You have to pull a few plastic retainer buttons from the head liner and pull it down a little.
The wire was the perfect length for all this routed this way, incluing enough slack at the bends so it isn't being pulled at any time.
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