JBL PREMIUM SYSTEM ~ NEW INFORMATION for Optical or RCA Out & DSP Integration!

[VA4Runner]

I just hardwired in a lci2 pro and ran the 12inch sub off of that.

What high-level speaker wires did you tap into? I think this is what I am going to do.

Sponsored

 

[Joey_Midnight]

What high-level speaker wires did you tap into? I think this is what I am going to do.

I tapped into the factory jbl sub harness, hoping it had a low pass filter from the HU

 

[Vincenzo]

You decide. ~ I think the stock speakers can sound better if given proper power & sound dampening treatment, but personally I will upgrade at least the front tweeters, mids & midbasses, subs as I already have that equipment.

For amp locations we all know it is tight and there aren't a lot of locations to work with, and even those are limited in size. In the hybrid 4R there is a small compartment behind the rear seats which could work for skinny amps, I'm thinking the sub & midbass amp(s) to put there, something like AudioControl (like this oneto run front midbasses & bridge other 2-channels to mono for subs). https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161EPICB4/AudioControl-EPICBIGFOUR.html it has a slimmer profile.

I was also thinking of biting the bullet & going with a new DSP that has amplification built in to handle power for tweets, mids, & rear speakers + processing for everything including signal for the amps & then put that under the passenger seat as they're more squarish in shape and tend to be around 10 to 13 inches each dimension. Something like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXEX121/Alpine-PXE-X121-12EV.html?tp=105887

There are some really high end & pricey DSP Amplifiers like this which would make a simple & tidy install
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/next/v-eight-dsp-ultimate

I went into a local place a year ago and was just looking to buy replacement speakers. They told me not to touch the speakers, that they weren’t really all that bad. They started talking about a 4 Runner that they just did. Sound deadening and installing the Hellix unit. They quoted me with a Hellix, harnesses, and tuning. It was a little pricey. They wanted $350 for the tuning alone. I left there and did a full sound deadening project. It worked amazingly. I’m not so concerned with going louder. I want a more immersive sound. There’s way too much hitting you in the face, which I don’t like. I might look into the Hellix again.

 

[Silver Bullet]

Yeah, most people have no idea when speakers are installed properly, it can make a world of a difference!

 

[Silver Bullet]

These new setups have me a little baffled! Been over 15years since ive done a build except for my recent 2017 TRD ORP build (which I just traded for my 26 TRD ORP). The install seems a bit different! How are you able to do a high powered system without running wire? Not getting much amperage with a 16gauge wire. Lol

 

[Island4Runner]

These new setups have me a little baffled! Been over 15years since ive done a build except for my recent 2017 TRD ORP build (which I just traded for my 26 TRD ORP). The install seems a bit different! How are you able to do a high powered system without running wire? Not getting much amperage with a 16gauge wire. Lol

You don't need heavier wire for mids & tweets, the stock wiring is sufficient. Most pull the sub signal from the JBL Amp harness, and send it through Audio Control (or similar) LOC and then to a a bigger sub amp. Then use heavier gauge wiring from the new amp to your new sub(s). I usually use 10-guage for this run.

 

[Silver Bullet]

You don't need heavier wire for mids & tweets, the stock wiring is sufficient. Most pull the sub signal from the JBL Amp harness, and send it through Audio Control (or similar) LOC and then to a a bigger sub amp. Then use heavier gauge wiring from the new amp to your new sub(s). I usually use 10-guage for this run.

I get what you’re saying, but that highly depends on what you’re running. But, stick wiring is fine in the vast majority of setups when running new mods and highs.

Thats where I get a little confused. I understand tapping into a new signal/source (though it’s something I’ve never done) but if you’re running a high power system you’re loosing power in the end. If you’re just tapping into a new signal, running a sub amp, and running a heavier gauge wire to that sub, a small setup would work just fine it seems. Though, 10gauge wire is an overkill (for what I’m guessing your setup is) 12 gauge is sufficient, unless you’re pushing true 2,000watts RMS or above.

But, I need to look into a LOC. Appreciate the info!

 

[Island4Runner]

I get what you’re saying, but that highly depends on what you’re running. But, stick wiring is fine in the vast majority of setups when running new mods and highs.

Thats where I get a little confused. I understand tapping into a new signal/source (though it’s something I’ve never done) but if you’re running a high power system you’re loosing power in the end. If you’re just tapping into a new signal, running a sub amp, and running a heavier gauge wire to that sub, a small setup would work just fine it seems. Though, 10gauge wire is an overkill (for what I’m guessing your setup is) 12 gauge is sufficient, unless you’re pushing true 2,000watts RMS or above.

But, I need to look into a LOC. Appreciate the info!

I just don't foresee sending more than 75 watts to a 3.5-in mid on the dash so no point in upgrading that wire, unless you're doing a competition or cost no object build. However I would consider upgrading the wire to the midbasses in the front & rear doors.

For the tapping into the signal, TacoTunes sells a harness & LOC kit for the 2025+ 4R to easily do this so you don't have to tap/splice into stock wiring, its about $140 for the harness & $160 for the AudioControl LOC.

https://tacotunes.com/shop/2025-toy...-package-modified-signal-post-jbl-amp-signal/

 

[Silver Bullet]

I just don't foresee sending more than 75 watts to a 3.5-in mid on the dash so no point in upgrading that wire, unless you're doing a competition or cost no object build. However I would consider upgrading the wire to the midbasses in the front & rear doors.

For the tapping into the signal, TacoTunes sells a harness & LOC kit for the 2025+ 4R to easily do this so you don't have to tap into the stock wiring, its about $140 for the harness & $160 for the AudioControl LOC.

https://tacotunes.com/shop/2025-toy...-package-modified-signal-post-jbl-amp-signal/

Definitely agree brotha!

Awesome, thanks for the link.. Going to look into that now as I’m going to plan a setup around that.

 

[Island4Runner]

Definitely agree brotha!

Awesome, thanks for the link.. Going to look into that now as I’m going to plan a setup around that.

If you want full DSP control, you can still use the TacoTunes harness to patch into the speaker wires when using aftermarket amplification. I'm using the PAC AP4-TY14 to get a optical signal &remote signal from the stock head unit and send that to a DSP, and then onto aftermarket amps, tying the amp output through the TacoTunes harness into the stock speaker wiring (except sub).
I won't need the AudioControl LOC using this option.

Sponsored