Fuse Taps for Dash Cam too tall?

[MStarmer]

Alright, I've scoured the threads to the best of my ability and I don't think I found anyone that had a real solution yet. Installed my Viofo A119M Pro and the hardwire kit. Tapped an unused slot for the ACC and the dome light fuse for the constant 12v. Started to tuck everything up and securing it and thought I'd test fit the panel. I swear I read earlier that someone said fuse taps clear with no issue. The do not. I can kind of force / flex the panel but I'm not really happy with that solution. I thought about maybe using a dremel and removing the ribs on the underside of the panel where the fuse taps are. I doubt that will be enough though. I'm fine with not having the actual fuse cover with diagram on there as I put it in the glove box with spare fuses. I'm almost thinking of using my router and the cutting a slot the whole length of the fuse box, then maybe 3D printing a part to cover with just a bit more height? Ignore the wires coming out of the fuse tap, they are actually routed above the plastic holding the fuse panel and secured. I just hadn't got that far yet.

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[Darkchief22]

I went with the Dongar Pro and skipped this entirely. Pulls power from the rearview mirror. Works perfectly with my Blackvue for parking mode and comes with multiple plugs for various dashcams.

 

[HVLA]

Same. Dongar Pro is the answer. 5 minute install.

 

[MStarmer]

I posted this in the other thread too. I believe I can live with this. I removed the ribs off the cover panel where the fuse box is and I believe it gave me just enough room. Using my borescope it appears there is just the smallest of gap between the panel and the fuse taps, or barely touching. And I need to still clean up the bottom panel, I just hacked it with an Xacto knife.

 

[TdoubleT]

I posted this in the other thread too. I believe I can live with this. I removed the ribs off the cover panel where the fuse box is and I believe it gave me just enough room. Using my borescope it appears there is just the smallest of gap between the panel and the fuse taps, or barely touching. And I need to still clean up the bottom panel, I just hacked it with an Xacto knife.

Good day, I'm about to do the same with Viofo camera. I know some have suggested the Dongar PRO but I was curious if you had any issues since your install and if the cover for the passenger fuse box has been holding since you removed the ribs and re-installed everything?

Let me know and thank you for the thread!

 

[MStarmer]

Good day, I'm about to do the same with Viofo camera. I know some have suggested the Dongar PRO but I was curious if you had any issues since your install and if the cover for the passenger fuse box has been holding since you removed the ribs and re-installed everything?

Let me know and thank you for the thread!

Nope, no issues at all. I did take the opportunity to clean up the ribs after I trimmed them off and try to make it at least a little more presentable. Camera also has been working flawlessly as well.

 

[TdoubleT]

Nope, no issues at all. I did take the opportunity to clean up the ribs after I trimmed them off and try to make it at least a little more presentable. Camera also has been working flawlessly as well.

Thank you very much for the update. I am waiting for my order and will be proceeding with the install. Cheers!

 

[shine]

Thank you very much for the update. I am waiting for my order and will be proceeding with the install. Cheers!

Why not use the connector that Toyota conveniently installed in our 4Runners to specifically to power a dash cam?

 

[TdoubleT]

Why not use the connector that Toyota conveniently installed in our 4Runners to specifically to power a dash cam?

which connector are you referring to? From what I’ve gathered this far, the only connector that comes to mind is the Dongar Pro. The dash cam I am installing doesn’t connect to anything in the interior mirror mount so I need to run the lines to the fuse box on the passenger side.
Unless I’m mistaken, please let me know which connector you are referring to, thanks!

 

[shine]

which connector are you referring to? From what I’ve gathered this far, the only connector that comes to mind is the Dongar Pro. The dash cam I am installing doesn’t connect to anything in the interior mirror mount so I need to run the lines to the fuse box on the passenger side.
Unless I’m mistaken, please let me know which connector you are referring to, thanks!

Check this out: https://www.4runner6g.com/forum/thr...ear-mount-install-with-lots-of-pictures.7727/

 

[josiahg52]

which connector are you referring to? From what I’ve gathered this far, the only connector that comes to mind is the Dongar Pro. The dash cam I am installing doesn’t connect to anything in the interior mirror mount so I need to run the lines to the fuse box on the passenger side.
Unless I’m mistaken, please let me know which connector you are referring to, thanks!

There are several options besides going to the fuse box that are better than fuse taps:

- You could track down the mating connector for the factory Toyota dashcam plug in the overhead console and build a short pigtail from it. Probably a little more effort to identify the connector and terminals, but they're usually somewhere in the connector/parts catalogs. I've done the same thing on many BMWs before.

- The Beat-Sonic BH12 gives you constant 12V, ACC/switched 12V and ground pigtails that you can terminate to your dashcam hardwire kit.

- The Beat-Sonic DCU-T101 plugs inline at the rearview mirror and provides switched USB-C power if you don't need parking-mode power.

- Or use a Dongar PRO/PRO+, depending on the camera and functionality you want, which gives you the additional power-management/programming features.

So there are several ways to get power through existing factory connectors without having to run down to the passenger-side fuse box.

 

[TdoubleT]

There are several options besides going to the fuse box that are better than fuse taps:

- You could track down the mating connector for the factory Toyota dashcam plug in the overhead console and build a short pigtail from it. Probably a little more effort to identify the connector and terminals, but they're usually somewhere in the connector/parts catalogs. I've done the same thing on many BMWs before.

- The Beat-Sonic BH12 gives you constant 12V, ACC/switched 12V and ground pigtails that you can terminate to your dashcam hardwire kit.

- The Beat-Sonic DCU-T101 plugs inline at the rearview mirror and provides switched USB-C power if you don't need parking-mode power.

- Or use a Dongar PRO/PRO+, depending on the camera and functionality you want, which gives you the additional power-management/programming features.

So there are several ways to get power through existing factory connectors without having to run down to the passenger-side fuse box.

stellar! Will look into these, cheers and thanks again!

 

[TdoubleT]

I posted this in the other thread too. I believe I can live with this. I removed the ribs off the cover panel where the fuse box is and I believe it gave me just enough room. Using my borescope it appears there is just the smallest of gap between the panel and the fuse taps, or barely touching. And I need to still clean up the bottom panel, I just hacked it with an Xacto knife.

Sorry to bug you again but would you mind telling me which fuse you tapped into when you installed the hardwire kit? I looked at the Dongar and will wait until the Pro+ is available so for now, I'll have to run the hardwire kit for parking mode to be active. I've been searching forums for the fuse diagram and can't seem to figure out which one to use when time comes to install them.

If you have a photo I would appreciate it as well. I'm not sure if my format will be the same as yours since I'm on the hybrid platform but I think it will give me a good idea which one to look for.

Cheers!

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