Drive Mode vs Oil Operating Temp

[TRD_Gobbler]

As the weather is starting to cool off, I'm seeing my oil is rarely reaching operating temperature on my morning drive (downside to a 10 minute commute). With my GR, it was justification to keep the miles down and keep the battery charged in my Taco, but I don't really want to be driving a 25 year old pickup over the creature comforts offered by the 4R.

I'm curious if anyone has noticed if drive mode has any meaningful effect on engine runtime, which would have a secondary effect on how quickly the oil warms up.

While the GR had trouble getting up to temp in 30 degree weather, the 4R struggles to get there in the high-50's courtesy of the hybrid system. To add to the anecdotal data points, I took a 25-30 minute trip earlier this week with some highway driving, then some idling, and noticed that 15-20 minutes into the trip that the oil guage was less than 1/4 of the way to the normal operating range. I've left it mostly in Eco mode, but I'm wondering if that's causing the engine to shut off more frequently in an effort to minimize fuel consumption.

Would I be better off putting it in Normal to get the engine up to temp, or is the difference negligible?

For context, my concern is the implications of not fully getting the engine up to operating temp: fuel dilution, condensation/excess moisture in the oil, etc. I know I can offset the daily commute with occasional prolonged drives, but if switching the drive mode changes "prolonged" from 45 minutes in Eco to 25 minutes in Normal, that's helpful information.

I want to give this truck the best chance of making it a few hundred thousand miles, so if changing the oil even more frequently (already planning on 5k intervals), or taking weekly hour long drives is the best approach, I'll do it. Just want to start with the simpler solutions first.

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[MikeK]

Run it in manual mode or tow/haul mode to bypass the engine shutoff while driving.
This will keep the engine running the entire time and help the oil heat up better.

 

[Vincenzo]

I started reading this and thinking to myself. I couldn’t wait to get to the to the end and comment, yet another neurotic thread. But, your concern is kinda legitimate. You brought me back 40 years to auto mechanics class. The teacher told us, never buy a car from a little old lady. It might look like a deal having very low miles but don’t pull a valve cover. Back in the day, due to engine technology, an engine repeatedly not brought up to proper operating temp would wreak havoc on the oil. I will say this though. I would notice back in my wrenching days, pull a valve cover off of an American car and then a Japanese car with relatively same mileage, was night and day difference. Never saw Japanese cars with sludge.
I have always criticized engineers, saying they’ve never turned a wrench for a living. But, I think we have to sit back and take it for granted that they have worked the shit out on this matter. From what I’ve read, the crankcase design addresses your concerns. Hence, no need for a catch can. (insert pearl clutch) here. There, you made me say it. Someone has to be the bad guy.
Again, let me go back 40 years to auto mechanics class and that same teacher. At that time, car owners were being programmed to change oil every 3,000 miles. It was mostly un needed. He said 5,000 miles was good.
But, in these days with turbos being prevalent. That poses a risk to oil and its longevity. You sound like you are on top of things about taking care of your of your vehicles. Use synthetic and do your thing. I change at 5,000. I think today’s oil technology is amazing. Walmart has the best price on oil by a lot.

 

[TRD_Gobbler]

As a neurotic engineer that hates turning wrenches, I feel personally attacked. But you get my point: short engine runtimes plus turbos are about the worst case scenario for oil.

I am curious about the crank cases design you mention though - happen to have any links to further reading on that?

 

[Vincenzo]

As a neurotic engineer that hates turning wrenches, I feel personally attacked. But you get my point: short engine runtimes plus turbos are about the worst case scenario for oil.

I am curious about the crank cases design you mention though - happen to have any links to further reading on that?

There’s a few threads here, regarding oil catch cans. Long story short. Not needed on these engines due to the crankcase ventilation design. Wanted to put one on and contacted a company that I have used before. All they do is catch cans. They advised not to use one. Isn’t needed.

 

[Gumpus]

As the weather is starting to cool off, I'm seeing my oil is rarely reaching operating temperature on my morning drive (downside to a 10 minute commute). With my GR, it was justification to keep the miles down and keep the battery charged in my Taco, but I don't really want to be driving a 25 year old pickup over the creature comforts offered by the 4R.

I'm curious if anyone has noticed if drive mode has any meaningful effect on engine runtime, which would have a secondary effect on how quickly the oil warms up.

While the GR had trouble getting up to temp in 30 degree weather, the 4R struggles to get there in the high-50's courtesy of the hybrid system. To add to the anecdotal data points, I took a 25-30 minute trip earlier this week with some highway driving, then some idling, and noticed that 15-20 minutes into the trip that the oil guage was less than 1/4 of the way to the normal operating range. I've left it mostly in Eco mode, but I'm wondering if that's causing the engine to shut off more frequently in an effort to minimize fuel consumption.

Would I be better off putting it in Normal to get the engine up to temp, or is the difference negligible?

For context, my concern is the implications of not fully getting the engine up to operating temp: fuel dilution, condensation/excess moisture in the oil, etc. I know I can offset the daily commute with occasional prolonged drives, but if switching the drive mode changes "prolonged" from 45 minutes in Eco to 25 minutes in Normal, that's helpful information.

I want to give this truck the best chance of making it a few hundred thousand miles, so if changing the oil even more frequently (already planning on 5k intervals), or taking weekly hour long drives is the best approach, I'll do it. Just want to start with the simpler solutions first.

Occasionally nice clean engineers can be useful since they understand the incredibly complex physics behind the things they work on. For example regarding Normal vs Eco mode, Normal uses more fuel and that's where the heat comes from.

 

[SouthCoast]

As the weather is starting to cool off, I'm seeing my oil is rarely reaching operating temperature on my morning drive (downside to a 10 minute commute). With my GR, it was justification to keep the miles down and keep the battery charged in my Taco, but I don't really want to be driving a 25 year old pickup over the creature comforts offered by the 4R.

I'm curious if anyone has noticed if drive mode has any meaningful effect on engine runtime, which would have a secondary effect on how quickly the oil warms up.

While the GR had trouble getting up to temp in 30 degree weather, the 4R struggles to get there in the high-50's courtesy of the hybrid system. To add to the anecdotal data points, I took a 25-30 minute trip earlier this week with some highway driving, then some idling, and noticed that 15-20 minutes into the trip that the oil guage was less than 1/4 of the way to the normal operating range. I've left it mostly in Eco mode, but I'm wondering if that's causing the engine to shut off more frequently in an effort to minimize fuel consumption.

Would I be better off putting it in Normal to get the engine up to temp, or is the difference negligible?

For context, my concern is the implications of not fully getting the engine up to operating temp: fuel dilution, condensation/excess moisture in the oil, etc. I know I can offset the daily commute with occasional prolonged drives, but if switching the drive mode changes "prolonged" from 45 minutes in Eco to 25 minutes in Normal, that's helpful information.

I want to give this truck the best chance of making it a few hundred thousand miles, so if changing the oil even more frequently (already planning on 5k intervals), or taking weekly hour long drives is the best approach, I'll do it. Just want to start with the simpler solutions first.

With a turbo, 3k oci's
Catch cans are unnecessary and a waste of money
Move the shifter to the left so you can manually adjust the gear selection, but shift it to 8th and leave it there. That will keep it i an automatic transmission operation but eliminate the start/stop without maintaining higher rpm by using tow/haul.

 

[127.0.0.1]

you can't put a catch can on this motor, there is no way to intercept crankcase gasses unless you design and build your own manifold. it is all integrated into the manifold and has it's own embedded oil separator system. the one hose that goes to the airbox is pressure balancer NOT crankcase gasses


This is a fully closed-loop PCV system with an integrated oil separator (Ventilation Case #1). It's more sophisticated than a traditional single PCV valve setup.

Key Components:

Component	Location/Function
Ventilation Case #1	Integrated into/near the valve cover; acts as the primary oil mist separator
PCV Valve	Installed in the cylinder head (not on the valve cover like older designs)
Intake Manifold	Has molded-in crankcase ventilation passages — no external hose needed for this leg
Fresh Air Feed	Comes from the air cleaner for pressure balance

 

[Joe Dirt]

Your hybrid is a cold runner in the morning.

It will take some time to warm up the transmission, engine oil and gearboxes.
I noticed this early on with mine and i did not have any concern until I realized that my short drives were contaminating the oil with fuel badly.

But this is my case as I am retired and was Notorious for short hauls.
Also I was Notorious for letting it idle in the morning excessively like 5 minutes thinking I was doing the engine justice, but in return I was contaminating the oil. these engines need to be driven from the start with minimal idle time. Anyway just my two cents and my own observations.

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