Bigger Brakes

[Stonkin]

With Bigger Rims and Tires, the stock brakes are already challenged IMHO. Add more power and weight with overlanding gear, and the brake system is inadequate especially in mountainous or hilly terrain.

What solutions are the most popular, effective, and affordable?

Thanks

JM

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[Crose1695]

The shop that does all my work is always putting on a brand called Power Brake. Here’s their website https://powerbrake.us/

 

[HVLA]

Have hybrid. Havent even considered brake upgrades. Never will.

 

[Stonkin]

Mine is hybrid,OTT, SXTH Intake Intercooler Banks Pipes AWE exhaust so it’s significantly faster? And even without winches and camping gear, the brskes are marginal. I run 4 piston calipers on my RippMods SC JK 2dr Rubicon as its 1000.lbs heavier than stock and the 37” tires and real bead locks weigh 115lbs each.

 

[MTN Dew]

Transmission in manual mode should be used while negotiating grades regardless of extra weight of gear. That could be a big ask of your brakes constantly being used like that.

 

[Stonkin]

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting to not utilize the downhill descent crawl setting? I’m actually more concerned about towing on the highway on long descents in the fog & rain especially with 18 wheelers using every lane.

 

[MTN Dew]

In "S" mode (manual shifting) you can downshift to lower gears. The engine and transmission will help control your speed without riding the brakes down a grade. Absolutely nothing to do with either hill descent or crawl control.

 

[Stonkin]

Ok I misunderstood your suggestion. Yes we agree on using gears on steep off road terrain. Regards my concerns about the OEM brakes being adequate, I am more focused on Hwy driving, perhaps with a trailer, but in foggy wet conditions with lots of 18 wheelers across every lane.
JM

 

[MikeD]

With Bigger Rims and Tires, the stock brakes are already challenged IMHO. Add more power and weight with overlanding gear, and the brake system is inadequate especially in mountainous or hilly terrain.

What solutions are the most popular, effective, and affordable?

Thanks

JM

JM: I've been tracking all the mods folks have talked about on this forum for 10 months since I started shopping for my 6G4R (bought TRD ORP in early May 2025) and I don't recall ever seeing anyone say that they have upgraded the brakes.
Am curious why you believe the existing brakes are "challenged"? Is it something about the size or materials of the discs/rotors or pads? I'm here to learn how to keep my 4Runner running for a long time and don't know much so questions like yours make me curious about what else I don't know.
Thanks
(BTW - the brake squeal issue is well known (I have a mild case) but don't think that is in play on your question about other solutions.)

 

[MTN Dew]

Ok I misunderstood your suggestion. Yes we agree on using gears on steep off road terrain. Regards my concerns about the OEM brakes being adequate, I am more focused on Hwy driving, perhaps with a trailer, but in foggy wet conditions with lots of 18 wheelers across every lane.
JM

Downshifting isn't just for off road use. Automatic transmissions for all types of applications whether a Supra, Corolla, or 4runner, Ford, Chevrolet or a Yugo. Downshifting on grades to maintain speeds, control or to just stop faster it's a thing. It's engine braking is saves on brakes or even brake fade.

 

[MTN Dew]

JM: I've been tracking all the mods folks have talked about on this forum for 10 months since I started shopping for my 6G4R (bought TRD ORP in early May 2025) and I don't recall ever seeing anyone say that they have upgraded the brakes.
Am curious why you believe the existing brakes are "challenged"? Is it something about the size or materials of the discs/rotors or pads? I'm here to learn how to keep my 4Runner running for a long time and don't know much so questions like yours make me curious about what else I don't know.
Thanks
(BTW - the brake squeal issue is well known (I have a mild case) but don't think that is in play on your question about other solutions.)

No its not a thing you would not have 6000 lbs of towing capacity if Toyota thought brakes were inadequate. As long as you maintain your GVWR and not exceed that, you will be just fine.

 

[Desert_6Gen]

instead of spending thousands for bigger calipers, rotors and pads. consider just upgrade your pads to a ceramic or semi-metalic. they are much better than the soft sponge oem pads.

 

[Stonkin]

Having had multiple race cars(Won Pikes Peak Exhibition class 2012, 2cnd in Unlimited in 2014 behind Roman Dumas,) over 8 race bikes, and having run Baja, Goodwood FOS 2017, and continued track day events in Porsche’s primarily but not exclusively ‘(CT5-V ‘23 Blackwing with Carbon Ceramic brakes,) I have my own ass dyno for when brakes are just adequate vs comforting, and unlikely to fail. Bear in mind that EPA tests and OEM braking specifications tend to reflect driving across Kansas rather than running up and down Caesar’s Head, Tail of the Dragon, Smokey Mountain Parkway, The Continental Divide Etc.

I never want to think about my brakes. And whenever I rent a car, I drive very differently because the brakes, suspension, transmission, alignment are all junk.


Even my wife says she wonders if the 4Runner will stop in time behind a Porsche or any Regeneration braking EV.

just my preference

JM

 

[CuttingedgeSport]

I have Wilwood brakes on another car, and I have owned some cars with big Brake kits.

Also, coming from a Lexus GX460, I will say these 6G 4Runner brakes are a big improvement in capability of diameter vs. the GX460. It looks like the same size calipers, but the larger rotor and the pad material is what determines the improved braking headroom
Usually anyways, the larger caliper spreads the force over a larger area more evenly, and the pads can be larger to last longer..

Running a GX460 in the mountains in Colorado was hard on them, no matter which pads I ran, and the stock OEM rotors would warp very early with OEM, DBA, or aftermarket quality Akebono pads, so I had replaced them with the excellent DBA slotted rotors early on. These were a great investment.


I won’t say that I wouldn’t like a big brake upgrade for the cool factor, but I would have to see some testing to prove they were a good improvement for heat fade/longevity before I might go that direction. Running heavier wheels and tires will definitely put more strain on stock brakes.

Perhaps if I pulled a medium-weight trailer often without trailer brakes…..

I would probably look at aftermarket pads first, then upgraded rotors next, then a proven big brake kit if I was on the hunt for improvement. If I could get a kit that uses OEM parts, that is a huge plus.

The toughest part is that you always give up something to get something; Stops much better, but squeals when cold, doesn’t fade when hot, but throws horrible dust that eats your wheels if you don’t clean them instantly. Then, a kit costs $3,000+ and the replacement rotors are $400 each and few shops will turn the slotted/drilled aftermarket rotors. Also, the consideration that you can’t get replacement aftermarket parts in the future is a real concern with that big of an investment.

My $.02.

 

[Stonkin]

I’m with you. So I bought a 4 wheel kit of better drilled, slotted and dimpled rotors and higher friction CF pads for less than $600 all in with shipping. Will report back after Easter From Brake Performance

JM

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