Advice needed: 35's not fitting so go to 34's?

[carpartsclemons]

Thank you

No problem

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[Archer]

Thanks carpartsclemon, finally, someone who answers the infamous "does this tire cobo fit" question. You should get a star by your name...lol

Might as well take my shot,

TRD PRO, OEM Pro rim +20 offset, no additional lift

Can I get a way with a Toyo AT3 295/70/18 or do I have to stick to the 285. It will be used on and offroad.

It will eventually get a lift and some more protection but for now I just want to get it as high as possible for clearing that center frame mount.

 

[Twomstone]

Hey man, I'm glad I found this as I'm looking at pretty much the same setup!

I'm fairly set on the 255/85/17 MT Baja Boss and funny enough want the Method 705's with +35 offset (considering the 316's in 8" +25). I was scouring the internet as 8.5" wide wheels are on the wide side for fitment with these tires, though I've seen other Toyotas with them and even a user messaging MT and apparently saying 8.5 will work.

1. Was the rear rubbing as well under full stuff or just binding? 2. Did you find a solution? 3. How was the front lock to lock and what castor? I've seen another guy have success with 3.1.

Let me know how it went as I'm close to pulling the trigger on this and would prefer to avoid lifting if I don't have to. Thanks!

Amen to using the 4Runner off road!

The 34.1" Falken tire wasn't available in load C, so I pivoted to a 255/85/17. Yes, a pizza cutter. Online reviews are really good so I took the plunge even though it is a load range E.

The tire is great and doesn't rub at all in normal situations on or off the road. But get some decent articulation involved and the rear tire still binds.


So I'm back to looking for other solutions:

1 - Anyone know what tubes are running behind the fender liner of the back driver tire? If I could move those to make a bit more space then I think I'd be good. I'd also need to make more space for the back passenger tire.

2 - Install a bump stop to reduce articulation so the tire wouldn't bind. This was recommended by a local off-road shop.

3 - I want to wait for lift kits that better fit my budget and performance needs come available. I'm hoping for something like this, but obviously for a 6th gen: https://teraflex.com/2010-toyota-4runner-falcon-2-sport-tow-haul-shock-spacer-lift-system.html.

4- Any other suggestions?

 

[MikeD]

I'm fairly set on the 255/85/17 MT Baja Boss and funny enough want the Method 705's with +35 offset (considering the 316's in 8" +25). I was scouring the internet as 8.5" wide wheels are on the wide side for fitment with these tires, though I've seen other Toyotas with them and even a user messaging MT and apparently saying 8.5 will work.

I found this potential setup so interesting I had to look it up. Here is the page with the spec from MT: MT Baja Boss A/T specs.
First, the 8.5 wheel is outside what they spec as the range of 6.5 - 8.0" - but you seemed to have surmised that. I may not chance that but I've gotten lucky on some things and you might too.
Second, these are 34.6" tires - which might seem like too much but with the right offset, you can fit them (see: Fitting 35s on 6G4R). Here is how I know:
I didn't mean to put on "35s" - I ordered Toyo A/T III 285/70R18 which are 33.7" ("34s") but the shop received and installed 285/75R18 (34.8") on my new TRD PRO wheels (+20 offset). Yep - they rubbed on crash bar and front fender liner. I removed crash bar and pushed in fender liner and bent back the air dam tab and they worked mostly... but then when offroad the rear tire rubbed on the fender flare when articulating up and I knew I needed something to change. Got the +45 offset TRD flat black option wheels and swapped (put my OEM 265/70 Michelins on the PROs). Almost all is good - rear tires completely clear the fenders now but at full articulation up under power uphill they rub the inside of the wheel well. No damage potential that I can see - its literally the tire just touching the felt as it rotates. (but I'm now motivated to put a bump stop in to prevent that - and get extended travel shocks to not lose articulation range.) The -.2" of difference in diameter for you likely will mean a bit less of this - and the narrower tire means even less potential for damage, I think.
So the question with your setup is: will the 30 mm (1.2") difference in width make up for the -10 mm offset - you really need to consider the front tire geometry but, (with crash bracket deleted) I think it will work. I would recommend not going any less than +35. With that, your "poke" should be a few mm less than mine (see below) and avoid the rear fender flare rub at articulation that I had with +20 offset wheels.
Caveat: this is for my TRD OR - not sure any of this would be true for another trim since the suspension components are all different. Also - I had the Peak 1.25" level installed with the original new wheels and tires - might make a difference in the front.
You are taking several risks but things could absolutely work out. Post pics when you do it!

 

[Twomstone]

Yeah I must have looked at MTs website 100 times looking at specs haha. Yes it being wider than officially recommended it makes me hesitant as I usually prefer narrower wheel vs wide, but this will be my first skinny and don't want a 7inch, partly for less availability and if I want a wider tire in the future. The Method 316s are 8inch but only +25 offset, I'm not sure if that would be enough.

I haven't gotten through all 351 pages on Tacoma world for their skinny thread but I'm looked around a lot other places and have seen a few dozen people with the 255 BBs on 8.5 wheels. Still not ideal, but makes me a bit less hesitant as well as the bead grip and not airing down super low might help.

Thanks for the info on yours (I'm also an ORP), it does seem that with the skinnies and offset the math miiight work out. Tinkerers Adventure and this video from Dissent fitting 11.5 wide full 35's with no lift also help keep me a bit more informed. Looks like there might be only one way to really find out!

I found this potential setup so interesting I had to look it up. Here is the page with the spec from MT: MT Baja Boss A/T specs.
First, the 8.5 wheel is outside what they spec as the range of 6.5 - 8.0" - but you seemed to have surmised that. I may not chance that but I've gotten lucky on some things and you might too.
Second, these are 34.6" tires - which might seem like too much but with the right offset, you can fit them (see: Fitting 35s on 6G4R). Here is how I know:
I didn't mean to put on "35s" - I ordered Toyo A/T III 285/70R18 which are 33.7" ("34s") but the shop received and installed 285/75R18 (34.8") on my new TRD PRO wheels (+20 offset). Yep - they rubbed on crash bar and front fender liner. I removed crash bar and pushed in fender liner and bent back the air dam tab and they worked mostly... but then when offroad the rear tire rubbed on the fender flare when articulating up and I knew I needed something to change. Got the +45 offset TRD flat black option wheels and swapped (put my OEM 265/70 Michelins on the PROs). Almost all is good - rear tires completely clear the fenders now but at full articulation up under power uphill they rub the inside of the wheel well. No damage potential that I can see - its literally the tire just touching the felt as it rotates. (but I'm now motivated to put a bump stop in to prevent that - and get extended travel shocks to not lose articulation range.) The -.2" of difference in diameter for you likely will mean a bit less of this - and the narrower tire means even less potential for damage, I think.
So the question with your setup is: will the 30 mm (1.2") difference in width make up for the -10 mm offset - you really need to consider the front tire geometry but, (with crash bracket deleted) I think it will work. I would recommend not going any less than +35. With that, your "poke" should be a few mm less than mine (see below) and avoid the rear fender flare rub at articulation that I had with +20 offset wheels.
Caveat: this is for my TRD OR - not sure any of this would be true for another trim since the suspension components are all different. Also - I had the Peak 1.25" level installed with the original new wheels and tires - might make a difference in the front.
You are taking several risks but things could absolutely work out. Post pics when you do it!

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