Same thing for the air conditioning. Not sure why I have to turn it back on every time if it was on when I turned the car off.
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Real-world use of 4Runner’s 2400W Inverter Power Outlet: gear, tips & cautions
- Thread starter fire_blade
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This is not an issue i've had.
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Yeah, you sure you're not just seeing the light out? If it's set to auto, the AC light will go out even when the AC system is running
Yea, no issues with AC and I like that it remembers that I have it on recirculation. I do wish there were options to use both the inverter and the aux switches with the ignition off. On my wrangler, I had an option to run the aux switch off battery or ignition and you could tell it to remember the last setting.
I just got back from a ~3500 mile, 2 week trip to pick up a camper trailer and then wander NM and CO with it.
I had a 60L Truma fridge in the rear of my truck - which will eventually make its way to the trailer. The Truma runs on either 120V or 12V (or 24V), but prefers 120V if available. So I plugged the fridge into both the 120V outlet in the back of the truck, and into a Battle Born 12V Li battery in the truck.The fridge would use 120V when available - basically, when driving - and would use 12V from the Battle Born batteries, when the truck was not running.
To charge the Battle Born 12V Li battery, I had a Victron 30A charger, that I plugged into the other 120V outlet, in the main console, behind the front seats.
Basically, the batteries would always, quickly get charged, when I was driving, and they would be there for when I was parked.
This system worked great.
I did had a backup Victron 50A DC to DC converter, that I programmatically limited to 8A, that I could use if the 120V approach did not work, for some reason. I never needed to use it.
Whenever just the fridge was the only thing pulling power (ie when the Li battery was fully charged) the fan in the 4Runner console was off - quiet. The fridge is spec'ed at ~6A @ 12V DC and 0.9A @ 100V AC - so it will pull around 90W, when the compressor is on.
However, when the batteries were charging, the fan started to wind up and made a lot of noise, within a couple of minutes. The battery charger was putting 30A into the battery @ approx 14V, so its pull from the 120V would have been 420W or say 470W (nearly 4A) if you assume a 90% efficiency. With the fridge I would have been pulling about 560W or about 5A from the 120V supply.
The thing worked perfectly for 2 weeks. I used between 10 and 35Ah overnight - depending how long stationary and how hot it was. With a 100Ah battery, I had plenty to spare.
I occasionally charged the battery stationary. Here the truck engine would switch on and off, as it needed to. But generally I charged on the move.
Yes switching the 120V on everytime you restart the car, is a pain. But I never had an issue, because of the Li battery in the setup.
I had a 60L Truma fridge in the rear of my truck - which will eventually make its way to the trailer. The Truma runs on either 120V or 12V (or 24V), but prefers 120V if available. So I plugged the fridge into both the 120V outlet in the back of the truck, and into a Battle Born 12V Li battery in the truck.The fridge would use 120V when available - basically, when driving - and would use 12V from the Battle Born batteries, when the truck was not running.
To charge the Battle Born 12V Li battery, I had a Victron 30A charger, that I plugged into the other 120V outlet, in the main console, behind the front seats.
Basically, the batteries would always, quickly get charged, when I was driving, and they would be there for when I was parked.
This system worked great.
I did had a backup Victron 50A DC to DC converter, that I programmatically limited to 8A, that I could use if the 120V approach did not work, for some reason. I never needed to use it.
Whenever just the fridge was the only thing pulling power (ie when the Li battery was fully charged) the fan in the 4Runner console was off - quiet. The fridge is spec'ed at ~6A @ 12V DC and 0.9A @ 100V AC - so it will pull around 90W, when the compressor is on.
However, when the batteries were charging, the fan started to wind up and made a lot of noise, within a couple of minutes. The battery charger was putting 30A into the battery @ approx 14V, so its pull from the 120V would have been 420W or say 470W (nearly 4A) if you assume a 90% efficiency. With the fridge I would have been pulling about 560W or about 5A from the 120V supply.
The thing worked perfectly for 2 weeks. I used between 10 and 35Ah overnight - depending how long stationary and how hot it was. With a 100Ah battery, I had plenty to spare.
I occasionally charged the battery stationary. Here the truck engine would switch on and off, as it needed to. But generally I charged on the move.
Yes switching the 120V on everytime you restart the car, is a pain. But I never had an issue, because of the Li battery in the setup.
My understanding is that when the light is off, it will run the AC on "low" to help with cooling, but you need to push the button and get the light on for it to run on full strength.
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The only thing the AC does other than the usual setting is go into Eco mode if you have the truck in Eco mode. I've seen ppl say the S-Flow mode (front seats only) is also a reduced power eco mode, but it runs at the same cycle, it just doesn't try to cool the whole truck
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If the Dometic fridge has 12VDC power cord, instead of using the 120VAC inverter, if you use the 12VDC cigarette lighter outlet, it switches on and off with the ignition. Might have to run an extension cord if yours doesn't have 12VDC outlet in the rear.
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I have it set up to charge my Anker battery, and my iceco fridge (stopped using dometic since I've had 3 fail in 5 years) and my starlink mini run off of the battery while the AC outlet charges the battery. That way while stopping for a bathroom break or to get gas the fridge and the internet keep running. When I turned everything off and go into the hotel room I can still get internet from the starlink for up to 12 hours on just the battery and the fridge will keep running as well. Only thing I forget to do once in awhile is flip the switch to charge the lithium battery. Eventually I'll put a small solar panel on the roof rack next to the starlink mini dish that will charge the battery when I'm not going to drive it for a few days. I wish I could program the Trail hunters system to automatically turn on the AC outlet at engine startup, that would be an improvement.
It's in the rear, plugged into the outlet.
I am currently powering my home fridge with my inverter. Power has been out since 8am so figured I would try it lol.
Why not try it, good idea.
I am currently powering my home fridge with my inverter. Power has been out since 8am so figured I would try it lol.
I didn't know that Charlotte was experiencing bad weather.
Someone hit and knocked down a very large power pole in front of our neighborhood, not storm related, just terrible driver related!
Car has to be running to use the 2400w inverter and it will cycle the engine on and off as needed (turn off everything not needed in the car for it to run less). I ran my 28cu home fridge with the car for a few hours with no issues while the power was out (fridge was getting warm so it was cooling the whole time).
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