285/70/18 tires on TRD Pro (stock, no lift) looks perfect

[soulsea]

Rather than start a new thread maybe you guys can help me out here with a couple of my questions cause I’m about to order 5 x 285/70/18 tires for my TRD Pro to put on my stock wheels.

- Some have mentioned minor modification is needed to fit the spare. For those who have actually done this, what mod specifically? Or is it just a matter of deflating the spare tire to make it fit?

- I’m going to off road this thing at some point so should I just remove the crash plates expecting that it will rub or leave them alone?

- My understanding is that my Toyo AT stock tires are SL rated, but their 285s are E rated and I have no idea what any of that means. Since the truck is going to be on road 99% of its life I want to have the 285s be as close to the ride quality and noise level of the stock Toyos, so what would you guys recommend?

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[Joestac]

Rather than start a new thread maybe you guys can help me out here with a couple of my questions cause I’m about to order 5 x 285/70/18 tires for my TRD Pro to put on my stock wheels.

- Some have mentioned minor modification is needed to fit the spare. For those who have actually done this, what mod specifically? Or is it just a matter of deflating the spare tire to make it fit?

- I’m going to off road this thing at some point so should I just remove the crash plates expecting that it will rub or leave them alone?

- My understanding is that my Toyo AT stock tires are SL rated, but their 285s are E rated and I have no idea what any of that means. Since the truck is going to be on road 99% of its life I want to have the 285s be as close to the ride quality and noise level of the stock Toyos, so what would you guys recommend?

Probably need to ask yourself why you want wider tires and decide if it is worth it.

SL rating is the "duty" rating of the tire. SL is not as heavy, better on road and gas mileage, but not as strong of a sidewall for off-roading or if you put a lot of cargo weight. E will be about 20 pounds heavier per tire from your stock. Worse road ride, slightly, and worse gas mileage.

Is having a 20mm wider tire worth having to modify your vehicle, have worse gas mileage, and have your speedo be off just to look a little beefier?

 

[soulsea]

Probably need to ask yourself why you want wider tires and decide if it is worth it.

SL rating is the "duty" rating of the tire. SL is not as heavy, better on road and gas mileage, but not as strong of a sidewall for off-roading or if you put a lot of cargo weight. E will be about 20 pounds heavier per tire from your stock. Worse road ride, slightly, and worse gas mileage.

Is having a 20mm wider tire worth having to modify your vehicle, have worse gas mileage, and have your speedo be off just to look a little beefier?

Whilst I appreciate the philosophical deconstruction of my motives, it doesn't answer any of the the questions I asked. And yes, my brain is able to grasp that greater size and usprung mass will have adverse affects on ride quality and fuel efficiency, I’m simply trying to minimize the effect and asking others for their input as to which tire would achieve this and what mods if any have to be undertaken re spare.

For example when comparing the Falken vs the Toyo, the Falken are C rated tires and the Toyo are E rated tires. C is going to be softer than E, but the Toyo are 13lbs lighter per tire. Both tires are going to be capable enough for the type of off roading I’m going to do, so from a ride quality and noise pov (forget mpg) should one favor the stiffer lighter tire or the heavier softer tire?

This is is the sort of information that would be useful for me to learn from others who have gone with this tire size.

 

[Joestac]

For example when comparing the Falken vs the Toyo, the Falken are C rated tires and the Toyo are E rated tires.

Which Falken tire are you currently considering? I have the AT3W on my other vehicle and have absolutely loved them. Swapping from my OEM Yokohama Geolander on my Outback, they were heavier but felt just as good, if not better on road.

When these Toyo's on my TH wear out I am considering either the AT4W or the BFG KO3, both significantly heavier than my stock even staying the same 265.

For me, I don't think 285 is needed. I might roll 275, but that would be it. These 265 already poke out enough that they spray the side of the vehicle passed the fender liners with goo.

All that to say, heavier might not always mean worse ride. Why I said slightly before. Softer and heavier could feel just fine. Like you said, either load fits your needs for off road capabilities.

 

[soulsea]

Which Falken tire are you currently considering?

 

[Joestac]

https://www.4runner6g.com/forum/threads/lt285-70r18-falken-or-nitto.8540/

Personally, I'd go Falken. Someone said they are the same diameter, so they are keeping the OEM spare. Dealer's choice on that. If you aren't off-roading much, could be a non-issue.

 

[Joestac]

Sorry, at a computer now. I wanted to see the full comparison side-by-side.

OEM is the first column in a group of 4, the three after it are also 265. Factory are SL, 4-ply, E is 10-ply, in the 265. Going up to 285 you get less choices. The AT4W only comes in C load, 6-ply, where the Toyo comes in at E, back to 10-ply.

I watch a lot of Driving Sports TV videos. He put the E load AT4W on his Land Cruiser to prevent punctures when off-roading alone, not caring too much about the hit to MPG. He also says the ride is still pretty good on the E load tires and he makes cross-country trips in that thing.

I saw another video by some guys that say E load are overkill if you are not going to be putting a lot of cargo weight on your car. They showed them aired down to like 15 PSI and they were barely squatty at all because the load on the vehicle just wasn't there. Just one data point though.

The factory Toyo being 39 pounds each and the AT4W being 68 it quite the jump per tire on the car, which was why I was considering staying at 265 when I change tires. If I went 275 on the AT4W, those are 60 pounds each so I save a little. The KO3s in 275 are also 60 pounds in the E load. Those are my top two right now. I think the AT4W is a better tire, but I love the look of the KO3s.

If I stay 265 on the KO3s, I can choose from D load, 8-ply @ 54 lbs, or E load, 10-ply @ 57 lbs.

Anyway, my comments were definitely not meant in a judgmental fashion. I am having the same debate on my end when these Toyo's eventually wear out, which I hear they do quite quick being SL rated. So I was basing my questions to you on the same ones I am asking myself.

Edit: Also sorry for jacking the crap out of this thread.

 

[soulsea]

Thanks for all that info.

I decided to go with the Falken for a softer tire, gonna get them installed end of this week (also installing full XPEL wrap at the same time cause obviously these will kick up some stuff). No matter what I’ll keep them till the end of May cause I’ll be in No Arizona off roading the whole month of May and then driving back to South Carolina. I’ll decide if the look is worth the extra discomfort in every day driving after that.

 

[Joestac]

Thanks for all that info.

I decided to go with the Falken for a softer tire, gonna get them installed end of this week (also installing full XPEL wrap at the same time cause obviously these will kick up some stuff). No matter what I’ll keep them till the end of May cause I’ll be in No Arizona off roading the whole month of May and then driving back to South Carolina. I’ll decide if the look is worth the extra discomfort in every day driving after that.

Nice. I am really curious to hear your thoughts in general and if any modifications are needed as you spend some time with them. Also, pictures. I really do love the AT3Ws I, now the wife, has on the Outback Wilderness. Have damn near 30,000 miles on them and they barely look worn. I do a 5 tire rotation every 5000 at Discount Tire to be double safe.

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