Trailhunter Tire Fitment - What have you fit?

[talmadge]

I'm curious what wheel/tire combos people have fit on their Trailhunters with stock suspension.

What size were you able to fit? Have you tested for rubbing at full compression (with the SDM engaged)? What mods, if any, were needed?

Did you fit a spare?

What load range did you go with and how do they ride?


I've been checking out the Toyo AT3 34x10.5R17LT. 33.5" real diameter, 10.6" width, D load, 55 pounds. Should be just small enough to fit a spare, and roughly the same width as the factory full size spare the TH comes with (10.4" width) so not hanging much lower than the already low-hanging Trailhunter spare.

From the estimates I've found online, the factory TH wheels are 33lbs, and the tires are 39 pounds, so 72 pounds per corner. These are 55 pound tires, and I'm considering putting them on Method MR703 17" +35mm offset, which are 28 pounds each, so it would be 83 pounds per corner, 11 lbs heavier than stock, but going from SL to D and ~32.5" to 33.5". So a decent upgrade in capability without too much punishment in weight. The MR703's are one of the lightest 17" wheels I've found intended for trail use, and people seem to think the bead grip does actually help.

The factory wheels are +25mm offset, so if I'm understanding this correctly, the MR703 +35mm should be 10mm more tucked. But the tires I'm looking at are 5mm wider than factory, which is 2.5mm on the inside and outside, which means that each tire will be approximately 7.5mm more tucked than the current configuration. So if I wanted to maintain the exact same amount of poke, I would use a 7mm wheel spacer (?).

This is only the second vehicle I've ever owned, I drove a V6 Rav4 for 16 years straight, so I'm new to this, and would appreciate any help. I want something slightly bigger for more ground clearance, slightly stronger for more structure when aired down and more puncture resistance on sharp rocks, but without too big of an impact on my MPGs and ride quality as this is my daily driver, and without ripping fenders off at max articulation since the trails I've been doing have used every bit of the suspension.

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[John2112]

I'm curious what wheel/tire combos people have fit on their Trailhunters with stock suspension.

What size were you able to fit? Have you tested for rubbing at full compression (with the SDM engaged)? What mods, if any, were needed?

Did you fit a spare?

What load range did you go with and how do they ride?


I've been checking out the Toyo AT3 34x10.5R17LT. 33.5" real diameter, 10.6" width, D load, 55 pounds. Should be just small enough to fit a spare, and roughly the same width as the factory full size spare the TH comes with (10.4" width) so not hanging much lower than the already low-hanging Trailhunter spare.

From the estimates I've found online, the factory TH wheels are 33lbs, and the tires are 39 pounds, so 72 pounds per corner. These are 55 pound tires, and I'm considering putting them on Method MR703 17" +35mm offset, which are 28 pounds each, so it would be 83 pounds per corner, 11 lbs heavier than stock, but going from SL to D and ~32.5" to 33.5". So a decent upgrade in capability without too much punishment in weight. The MR703's are one of the lightest 17" wheels I've found intended for trail use, and people seem to think the bead grip does actually help.

The factory wheels are +25mm offset, so if I'm understanding this correctly, the MR703 +35mm should be 10mm more tucked. But the tires I'm looking at are 5mm wider than factory, which is 2.5mm on the inside and outside, which means that each tire will be approximately 7.5mm more tucked than the current configuration. So if I wanted to maintain the exact same amount of poke, I would use a 7mm wheel spacer (?).

This is only the second vehicle I've ever owned, I drove a V6 Rav4 for 16 years straight, so I'm new to this, and would appreciate any help. I want something slightly bigger for more ground clearance, slightly stronger for more structure when aired down and more puncture resistance on sharp rocks, but without too big of an impact on my MPGs and ride quality as this is my daily driver, and without ripping fenders off at max articulation since the trails I've been doing have used every bit of the suspension.

I kept the OEM size, switched to method racing wheels with beadlock and put the Nokian in Outpost NAT on. I've put many miles on this setup in the San Juan mountains of Colorado, rock crawling and over landing and I didn't find a need for bigger tires. I have a friend that put the same tires on his but on 35s, they rub under compression so he has had to modify the fender wells. We usually go out in pairs off-roading and I seem to be able to go everywhere he does except I get about 3 miles per gallon better on the highway than he does. The spare does not fit under the vehicle, he has to put it on the roof rack.

 

[3rdRunner]

I have a Westcott Preload Collar so a little more room up front and run Toyo R/T Pro 35/11.5/17. Very few issues with rubbing - only at about 1/2 lock and full compression coming off a significant obstacle (step, rock) and it’s minor. I did do the crash bracket delete and pin the liner forward- both super easy. The set up is fantastic off-road, but John2112 is entirely correct - you will sacrifice mileage, have to deal with spare relocation, and listen to more tire noise depending on the tire. I previously ran 285/75/17 Toyo AT3. If you don’t get yourself in many situations where you need an aggressive tread, I think that is the sweet spot. The AT3 will give you good off-road performance, a quieter more economical on-road ride, and fit in the stock spare spot. If you are running the stock TH 18” rims, 285/70/18… but the AT3 is an E load so I’d consider WildPeak AT4 in C load.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I'm curious what wheel/tire combos people have fit on their Trailhunters with stock suspension.

What size were you able to fit? Have you tested for rubbing at full compression (with the SDM engaged)? What mods, if any, were needed?

Did you fit a spare?

What load range did you go with and how do they ride?


I've been checking out the Toyo AT3 34x10.5R17LT. 33.5" real diameter, 10.6" width, D load, 55 pounds. Should be just small enough to fit a spare, and roughly the same width as the factory full size spare the TH comes with (10.4" width) so not hanging much lower than the already low-hanging Trailhunter spare.

From the estimates I've found online, the factory TH wheels are 33lbs, and the tires are 39 pounds, so 72 pounds per corner. These are 55 pound tires, and I'm considering putting them on Method MR703 17" +35mm offset, which are 28 pounds each, so it would be 83 pounds per corner, 11 lbs heavier than stock, but going from SL to D and ~32.5" to 33.5". So a decent upgrade in capability without too much punishment in weight. The MR703's are one of the lightest 17" wheels I've found intended for trail use, and people seem to think the bead grip does actually help.

The factory wheels are +25mm offset, so if I'm understanding this correctly, the MR703 +35mm should be 10mm more tucked. But the tires I'm looking at are 5mm wider than factory, which is 2.5mm on the inside and outside, which means that each tire will be approximately 7.5mm more tucked than the current configuration. So if I wanted to maintain the exact same amount of poke, I would use a 7mm wheel spacer (?).

This is only the second vehicle I've ever owned, I drove a V6 Rav4 for 16 years straight, so I'm new to this, and would appreciate any help. I want something slightly bigger for more ground clearance, slightly stronger for more structure when aired down and more puncture resistance on sharp rocks, but without too big of an impact on my MPGs and ride quality as this is my daily driver, and without ripping fenders off at max articulation since the trails I've been doing have used every bit of the suspension.

I'm pretty sure that same wheel offers a plus 25 offset which will probably be perfect for what you want in regards to poke. I'm going to go that same route as soon as I burn the rubber on these Factory tires.

 

[Zeeke]

I have a Westcott Preload Collar so a little more room up front and run Toyo R/T Pro 35/11.5/17. Very few issues with rubbing - only at about 1/2 lock and full compression coming off a significant obstacle (step, rock) and it’s minor. I did do the crash bracket delete and pin the liner forward- both super easy. The set up is fantastic off-road, but John2112 is entirely correct - you will sacrifice mileage, have to deal with spare relocation, and listen to more tire noise depending on the tire. I previously ran 285/75/17 Toyo AT3. If you don’t get yourself in many situations where you need an aggressive tread, I think that is the sweet spot. The AT3 will give you good off-road performance, a quieter more economical on-road ride, and fit in the stock spare spot. If you are running the stock TH 18” rims, 285/70/18… but the AT3 is an E load so I’d consider WildPeak AT4 in C load.

I love the wildpeaks but even that C load tire is 68lbs. They are sadly not exactly light. And they don't make a 275 in C either.

 

[3rdRunner]

Yeah - you will certainly pay a price in terms of MPG. Definitely something to consider.

 

[talmadge]

I'm pretty sure that same wheel offers a plus 25 offset which will probably be perfect for what you want in regards to poke. I'm going to go that same route as soon as I burn the rubber on these Factory tires.

The 17” 703 bronze in the 6x5.5” bolt pattern only comes in 0 or 35mm from what I can see on their website. The 25mm option is for 6x135.

I kept the OEM size, switched to method racing wheels with beadlock and put the Nokian in Outpost NAT on. I've put many miles on this setup in the San Juan mountains of Colorado, rock crawling and over landing and I didn't find a need for bigger tires. I have a friend that put the same tires on his but on 35s, they rub under compression so he has had to modify the fender wells. We usually go out in pairs off-roading and I seem to be able to go everywhere he does except I get about 3 miles per gallon better on the highway than he does. The spare does not fit under the vehicle, he has to put it on the roof rack.

yep I have considered staying at the factory profile for the same reason, I did the alpine loop in the San Juan’s on the factory tires and it was honestly fine. Factory profile is an option I haven’t completely ruled out.

I have a Westcott Preload Collar so a little more room up front and run Toyo R/T Pro 35/11.5/17. Very few issues with rubbing - only at about 1/2 lock and full compression coming off a significant obstacle (step, rock) and it’s minor. I did do the crash bracket delete and pin the liner forward- both super easy. The set up is fantastic off-road, but John2112 is entirely correct - you will sacrifice mileage, have to deal with spare relocation, and listen to more tire noise depending on the tire. I previously ran 285/75/17 Toyo AT3. If you don’t get yourself in many situations where you need an aggressive tread, I think that is the sweet spot. The AT3 will give you good off-road performance, a quieter more economical on-road ride, and fit in the stock spare spot. If you are running the stock TH 18” rims, 285/70/18… but the AT3 is an E load so I’d consider WildPeak AT4 in C load.

Did you have the E or C load 285/75r17’s? According to Toyo’s website those are 33.9”x11.3” and 59 pounds for the C load or 60 pounds for the E. It’s a size I’m also considering.

 

[3rdRunner]

The 17” 703 bronze in the 6x5.5” bolt pattern only comes in 0 or 35mm from what I can see on their website. The 25mm option is for 6x135.




yep I have considered staying at the factory profile for the same reason, I did the alpine loop in the San Juan’s on the factory tires and it was honestly fine. Factory profile is an option I haven’t completely ruled out.



Did you have the E or C load 285/75r17’s? According to Toyo’s website those are 33.9”x11.3” and 59 pounds for the C load or 60 pounds for the E. It’s a size I’m also considering.

C loads- given a choice I’d go C. Unfortunately, I can’t get R/T Pro’s in that range. I run them on Method 709 17 + 25 so I’m pretty comfortable running around at 12 psi on the bead grips and E loads. They just float through deep, loose sand and crawl over rocks, shale. I went with the 709 for the + 25 offset., but of course the compromise is added weight- about 5 pounds per corner. Top pic are R/T Pros and bottom is AT3 if that helps you visualize.

 

[John2112]

The 17” 703 bronze in the 6x5.5” bolt pattern only comes in 0 or 35mm from what I can see on their website. The 25mm option is for 6x135.




yep I have considered staying at the factory profile for the same reason, I did the alpine loop in the San Juan’s on the factory tires and it was honestly fine. Factory profile is an option I haven’t completely ruled out.



Did you have the E or C load 285/75r17’s? According to Toyo’s website those are 33.9”x11.3” and 59 pounds for the C load or 60 pounds for the E. It’s a size I’m also considering.

I have the stock 18-In 265s 33s on there, got rid of the toyos which areNfine up in the San juans in the summer but they are really lacking with a little bit of snow and ice on the ground. The nokians fixed that perfectly. They have a lot deeper tread and I got the E load. The Alpine loop especially engineer pass was where I had trouble with the toyos, that OEM tread just wasn't deep enough for 2 in of snow on the ground with ice under it. Went back after I upgraded the tires and the new ones did great, and did Black Bear pass as well. I air down to 15 psi with the new method bead grip wheels.

 

[3rdRunner]

I have the stock 18-In 265s 33s on there, got rid of the toyos which areNfine up in the San juans in the summer but they are really lacking with a little bit of snow and ice on the ground. The nokians fixed that perfectly. They have a lot deeper tread and I got the E load. The Alpine loop especially engineer pass was where I had trouble with the toyos, that OEM tread just wasn't deep enough for 2 in of snow on the ground with ice under it. IWent back after I upgraded the tires and the new ones did great, and did Black Bear pass as well. I air down to 15 psi with the new method bead grip wheels.

That’s awesome! Imogene and Black Bear were both closed when we were up earlier this year. How did the TH handle the steps on Black Bear? Did you use a mode?

 

[John2112]

That’s awesome! Imogene and Black Bear were both closed when we were up earlier this year. How did the TH handle the steps on Black Bear? Did you use a mode?

It handled the steps perfectly, however I did use a spotter in addition to those trail cameras. It did a lot better than my Jeep Rubicon did. I did use crawl control on it part of the time and that did an excellent job. My significant other says we're not going to do that anymore LOL. We also did Tin cup pass over by Gunnison, a lot more challenging since they don't maintain the road and ended up breaking off both the right and left mud flaps. I'll be ordering flexible ones. Next May we're headed up to British Columbia up to the Northwest Territory, going to see how it does on those roads all the way to the Arctic Ocean.

 

[3rdRunner]

That’s great to hear and I’m completely on board with the spotter. Not a lot of margin for error. And I don’t blame the SO…lol. BC sounds like it’s going to be amazing… you’ll have to fill us in on that adventure!

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