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Disappointed with the Paint on My Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro

rosnaby

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I have never had any issues with the 5 other 4Runners that I have owned. Why would I treat this one any different? I guess I have to now.
And if it matters, my hand wash is with microfiber towels i bought brand new, not a brush or anything that could realistically cause damage … all other black/underground 6th gens ive seen, dont look nearly as fresh as some of the other bright colors unless they are new new.
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Pelo18

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Nice!

I am brining my in tomorrow to get detailed. I really don't want to be worrying about paint for the life of this car. I really kills the enjoyment.

Where did you go to get the work done? Cost? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Tim,

I went to Speed Project Lab in Richmond BC. Before, I handed the keys over. Went to their shop and checked out the facilities. It was immaculate and well presented. A shop shows, how they handle their customers and products. You can go to a cheaper place. I was always believed in, what you get back in return. After a couple of weeks, they have a follow-up, to make sure everything is okay. You can go partial for PPF on high traffic areas, instead of full PPF.

https://speedprojectslab.com/
 
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tpmacleod

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My advice is to go with the one bucket method and foam cannon to wash your car and do it regularly. My preferred method because it’s fast and effective. Basically,
  • Bucket with grit guard (wheeled preferable). Grit guard not mandatory but I always use one.
  • 6-8 Microfiber Wash Pads (I use Chemical Bros Microfiber pads). One side of pad=one panel (Not wheels! That’s its own thing). Never dunk a dirty pad into the bucket! Foam entire vehicle. Then dunk a pad, clean a panel, flip pad, clean second panel, then swap for fresh pad and repeat.
  • Good Ph neutral soap (I like Adams Mega Foam).
  • If really dirty/or every several washes you can use a prewash - basically spray on (diluted 2% prewash) with pump sprayer, let sit for a couple minutes, and rinse (I like Bilt Hamber Touch-less). Then move on to normal wash routine.
  • Drying aid and good drying towel (I like The Rag Company). You can use waterless wash, detailer, 3 in 1 (like Griots, Adams H20, etc.), or something with silica (I use Apex Spray and Seal). You want the slick properties of the spray to aid drying and protect the paint.
Thanks for the information. This is a great guideline for me. Moving forward. Thank you.
 
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tpmacleod

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Tim,

I went to Speed Project Lab in Richmond BC. Before, I handed the keys over. Went to their shop and checked out the facilities. It was immaculate and well presented. A shop shows, how they handle their customers and products. You can go to a cheaper place. I was always believed in, what you get back in return. After a couple of weeks, they have a follow-up, to make sure everything is okay. You can go partial for PPF on high traffic areas, instead of full PPF.

https://speedprojectslab.com/
Thanks for all that information. Do you mind if I reach out to you to add more specifics? I brought my truck to the dealership and they buffed out all the scratches and it’s back to pretty much new. I’m just looking for a plan to move forward. I wouldn’t mind knowing what you had wrapped and kind of the cost. I’m looking at.
 

CO/ZA

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I do t get it. Why are the cheating out on things we can see! I’m not encouraging cuts elsewhere but these types of cuts really can affect sales.
Any suggestions on moving forward?
Every brand has strengths and weaknesses, and Toyota's are paint and metal.

Thin, cheap paint that swirls easily and peels after 8-10yrs.

Non-galvanized steel that rusts in harsh climates, with a piddly warranty to back it up.

VW/BMW/Mercedes/etc. all use ceramic particle infused paint to increase hardness and use proper, fully galvanized hot dip steel.

Japanese cars are (or were) cheaper for a reason, and it came out in paint, metal, safety, and innovation.

No such thing as a free lunch.
 

Pelo18

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Thanks for all that information. Do you mind if I reach out to you to add more specifics? I brought my truck to the dealership and they buffed out all the scratches and it’s back to pretty much new. I’m just looking for a plan to move forward. I wouldn’t mind knowing what you had wrapped and kind of the cost. I’m looking at.
Tim,
Sure. Give me a way to contact you, by Facebook messenger or WhatsApp.
 

Sand Dollar

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To start the cleaning process, I first rinse the surface thoroughly. Next, I use a foam cannon and rinse again. After that, I use the cannon a second time, allowing the soap to sit for a few minutes before cleaning with a microfiber sponge. Once I finish cleaning, I rinse everything off and then use a leaf blower to dry the surface efficiently.
 

Beedeviled

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To start the cleaning process, I first rinse the surface thoroughly. Next, I use a foam cannon and rinse again. After that, I use the cannon a second time, allowing the soap to sit for a few minutes before cleaning with a microfiber sponge. Once I finish cleaning, I rinse everything off and then use a leaf blower to dry the surface efficiently.
For that first spray of foam cannon and rinse. Have you considered a prewash then rinse instead (I’ve been using Bilt Hamber Touch-less)? Would likely be more effective with its higher pH to break up dirt before moving on to your pH neutral foam application.
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