AJ123's TRD ORP Build on TE37 -10 Offset and Toyo Open Country R/T 275/70/17 tires

[AJ123]

Hi guys! This is my first official intro post/thread. I switched over from a Honda Civic Type R FBO into a TRD ORP. I’m no stranger to modifications to my vehicles but I am definitely new to the suv/truck life scene.

I took delivery of my new vehicle on 10/11/25 and it’s been nothing but smiles so far! Looking forward to this build and the people I can network with regarding the 4Runner world! Cheers.

10/18/25
Added door lights to complement the build - thanks to OperationModout for the quality product!
Windows ceramic tinted - 5% all around , 50% front windshield
Full Front End PPF
Full Ceramic Coating

10/19/25
I got some Rays Volk TE37 (-10 offset) on 295s and I was rubbing on stock suspension… was kinda bummed lol. Definitely need to lift this bad boy

10/22/25
Fast forward to today. I kept the 295s for future use & I had to throw 275/70/17 Toyo Open Country R/T on and I rub VERY minimally compared to before. Now she’s ready for some driving

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[MikeD]

10/22/25
Fast forward to today. I kept the 295s for future use & I had to throw 275s on and I rub VERY minimally compared to before. Now she’s ready for some driving

They look great, but am curious what offset those Volks are. Offset makes (as I think I understand it*) a big difference re: rub. Your 275/70/17 = 32.2" are 0.4" less diameter than stock 265/70/18 32.6"(and 10mm wider, which matters). But surprising to for you to report even minimal rub on a smaller diameter tire - and I am trying to learn how much offset matters in this mix.
I ask because although most of the Volk TE37 17" wheels have positive offset, if you've got one with low positive (+20 or less) or negative offset that can aggravate the rubbing (I think).

The rest of this post is just my personal experience for context:
I've got Toyo A/T III 285/70/18s (33.7" dia.) on TRD Pro 18x8.5" +20 inch wheels with the Peak 1.25" leveling spacer. I was able to make them fit by removing crash plate and bending up the tab for the outer screw on the air dam. Here are shots of just touching the air dam screw (before removal) in front and crash plate cover (before removal) in rear.

BTW - I'm not sure the leveling kit made a huge difference. Maybe a bit. Judge for yourself from this:

*In fact I'm swapping my TRD Pro +20s for the TRD Flat Black +45s (which arrived today) to go with the Toyo 285/70s and will be comparing the degree of rub to better understand the trade. Will be putting the OEM Michelin 265/70s on the TRD Pro wheels for highway use and swapping in the Toyos for off-roading and snow. (the big heavy tires cause the range for a full 19 gal tank (calculated by me and accounting for difference in revs/mi) to go down from 425 plus to under 350 miles (avg MPG=22.3 vs 18) and I've got a bunch of long road trips coming up for which I want to limit stops for fillups)
Probably TMI but sharing my experience and plans.....

Bottom line: what offset? Any sense of the contribution from the offset of the rubbing?
Thanks

 

[xp0nex]

Maybe 0 or -10 for offset?
Looks like somewhere between +18 to +25 is the range to be

 

[MikeD]

Maybe 0 or -10 for offset?
Looks like somewhere between +18 to +25 is the range to be

I'll report back after comparing the +45 to +20 when I have the tire to wheel swap complete, but my hypothesis is that the place to be for our (you, me, OP) TRD ORs is +45 - +55: i.e., the available offsets from the factory. Note that the TRD PRO and TH have +20 offset wheels BUT they also have longer strut assemblies (about an inch, maybe) and adjustments to UCA and LCA and CV joints (probably?) to account for the longer struts. My evidence is the relative ease for Pros to fit the 285/70/18s on stock as reported here vs. my and others experience with fitting them on TRD OR and experiencing what I experienced.
My further hypothesis is that any less offset than factory values aggravates the rub. (recognizing that both width and diameter of tire matter a great deal in the equation, and width of wheel to a lesser degree).

 

[IVD6G [SCAMMER]]

Awesome build and that Honda looks sick!!

 

[6GenChad]

Maybe 0 or -10 for offset?
Looks like somewhere between +18 to +25 is the range to be

To get a good fitment, you want to stick around +20 to +35 offset. I am running +25 offset, on 35x12.5R17's, on ToyoAT3's, had to take out the crash support, and trim a very little to fit.

I think 285/70/18 is the biggest tire you can run without rubbing, but it all comes down to offset.

Looks rad though. I've always been intrigued by JDM wheels on off-road vehicles.

 

[xp0nex]

To get a good fitment, you want to stick around +20 to +35 offset. I am running +25 offset, on 35x12.5R17's, on ToyoAT3's, had to take out the crash support, and trim a very little to fit.

I think 285/70/18 is the biggest tire you can run without rubbing, but it all comes down to offset.

Looks rad though. I've always been intrigued by JDM wheels on off-road vehicles.

I'd like to move down to 17's with +25 offset and some 295s.

 

[AJ123]

Maybe 0 or -10 for offset?
Looks like somewhere between +18 to +25 is the range to be

hey! I'm running -10 offset. A bit aggressive but the poke is perfect. 275/285 is the max you can run without rubbing on stock suspension.

 

[xp0nex]

How bad were you rubbing with the 295s? Why not 285s? Do you think with a 2.25" lift you'd clear them?

 

[anothy]

Hey, was thinking about running the same setup! -10 offset with 285/70 or 285/75. Think that would work with some minor trimming on a 2.5” lift?

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