285/75R18s on stock TRD Pro (No Lift & Zero Trimming), but you have to remove front flaps and crash plates (Photos included)

[AdamDeveaney]

285/75R18s (34.8” x 11.2”) fit on a stock TRD Pro (or Trailhunter) with the mud flaps and crash plates removed.

So I have a stock TRD Pro and I kept the wheels because I like them. I saw a post that said you could fit 35”x12.5” tires under the stock suspension with a little work. I can confirm this is probably accurate, though my tires are not 12.5” They appear to have more than 0.5” of clearance on the inside.

These are 285/75R18 Yokohama M/Ts. They’re my go to offroad tire, having had BFGs, Coopers, and Wranglers in the past. I’m still on this truck’s first tank, but initial values look like my MPG went from 20 to 17.

I do think this approaches the maximum tire you could cram under this truck without lifting or further suspension mods. I have not had the chance to articulate the rear end and could potentially find issues like the guy I linked below did on his ORP. I do think time will show that 35x12.5s are the max size this truck will tolerate in stock form with stock wheels, and I think that will become the go to size, barring the rear end not tolerating them under max articulation.

To fit these tires under a stock TRD Pro or Trailhunter (Or any other trim with a comparable lifted ride height) you must remove the stock mud flaps, the fabric panel on the back of the wheel well, and the frame crash plate held on by (3) 17mm bolts.

I used this guide on 4runner6g.com. (https://4runner6g.com/threads/trimming-guide-for-35-tires-on-6th-gen-4runner-2025.748/) Though this is on an ORP and I did not need to trim any plastic or remove the fuel rail cover, so I did not need an extension.

Hope this all helps, good luck!

Photos and instructions follow.

• Remove the front mudflaps, (2) screws and a plastic press pin. I took these off prior to taking photos as I already knew they were interfering and were easy to remove.
• Remove the fabric covers held by (3) plastic press pins. I can’t show these on the car because they were torn off when the tire shop backed the truck out into the parking lot.
• Remove the frame crash plate held on by (3) 17mm bolts.

(1) photo showing the fabric cover

(1) photo of the tire hitting the frame crash plate

(3) photos of the plate and the (3)17mm bolts to be removed.

(1) photo showing the wheel clearing, I put the (3) bolts back into their holes, I consider this best practice anytime I remove parts, including the mudflaps, fills holes and saves time if I ever need to reinstall for some reason.

(2) photos of the truck on the tires

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[BillyG4Runner6G]

Did you ever consider going with the Nitto Recon Grappler AT 295/70R18 at 34.29" in a Standard Load? They are only 53lbs. and sounds like they fit pretty well with only having to remove the frame crash plate. I personally like the idea of keeping my factory mudflaps and having a softer ride and also not needing to install a pre-collar lift at this point. I hear the E load tires can be pretty harsh however it sounds like you made need a stronger sidewall MT tire for where you will be off roading. Truck looks very aggressive with those tires! Are you planning on lifting her anytime soon?

 

[AdamDeveaney]

Did you ever consider going with the Nitto Recon Grappler AT 295/70R18 at 34.29" in a Standard Load? They are only 53lbs. and sounds like they fit pretty well with only having to remove the frame crash plate. I personally like the idea of keeping my factory mudflaps and having a softer ride and also not needing to install a pre-collar lift at this point. I hear the E load tires can be pretty harsh however it sounds like you made need a stronger sidewall MT tire for where you will be off roading. Truck looks very aggressive with those tires! Are you planning on lifting her anytime soon?

I've had Nitto tires, but never the Grapplers, I've looked at them though. I offroad in PA which is very rocky and you need tough sidewalls to deal with it.

I dint think you could keep the factory mud flaps with these tires, though you might be able to trim them, I prefer them off so I didn't consider trimming them.

I have no plans to lift it. I actually added the base trucks oval side steps which ill have to remove to offroad. I have two very young daughters and they need to be able to climb up into it. Its too tall as it is. If i keep it long term I will definitely consider jacking it up.

 

[Positronic]

looks great! now tell us the stats on that trans-am ?

 

[AdamDeveaney]

looks great! now tell us the stats on that trans-am ?

Positronic,

It's a 2000 black/black LS1 6-speed with T-tops. It's not a true WS6, but I got the factory WS6 hood/airbox on it and replaced the suspension with Koni/Eibach, So it's just missing the sway bars. Runs greatm cold A/C, just had a bunch of work done to it. T-Tops don't leak I think, but it's rarely out in the rain. It's at 149k miles.

It's been my dream car since it's came out when I was 10. I bought this one in 2021 on my birthday. Single owner out of Raleigh, flew down one-way, sight unseen, paid $9,000. Drove it back 10 hours with a bad clutch master cylinder.

Aside from the shocks/springs, it's basically stock except for a Borla catback, a pro 5.0 shifter, and the C6 rims which I plastidipped black. I put an android auto headunit in it and swapped all the speakers to Alpine.

I have no plans to add power. I've had far faster cars and I just want to enjoy this for what it is. Wife won't ride in it or let me put the kids in it though so I have to own other things.

 

[Positronic]

Positronic,

It's a 2000 black/black LS1 6-speed with T-tops. It's not a true WS6, but I got the factory WS6 hood/airbox on it and replaced the suspension with Koni/Eibach, So it's just missing the sway bars. Runs greatm cold A/C, just had a bunch of work done to it. T-Tops don't leak I think, but it's rarely out in the rain. It's at 149k miles.

It's been my dream car since it's came out when I was 10. I bought this one in 2021 on my birthday. Single owner out of Raleigh, flew down one-way, sight unseen, paid $9,000. Drove it back 10 hours with a bad clutch master cylinder.

Aside from the shocks/springs, it's basically stock except for a Borla catback, a pro 5.0 shifter, and the C6 rims which I plastidipped black. I put an android auto headunit in it and swapped all the speakers to Alpine.

I have no plans to add power. I've had far faster cars and I just want to enjoy this for what it is. Wife won't ride in it or let me put the kids in it though so I have to own other things.

Man that is awesome you were able to find a single-owner one in that kind of shape and mileage. i had a 2002 firehawk at one point in my life and its one of my biggest regrets on the list of pontiacs i've sold off, even still have the TT2 wheels i had on it in my garage after 10 yrs in hopes i'll find another one.

 

[AdamDeveaney]

Man that is awesome you were able to find a single-owner one in that kind of shape and mileage. i had a 2002 firehawk at one point in my life and its one of my biggest regrets on the list of pontiacs i've sold off, even still have the TT2 wheels i had on it in my garage after 10 yrs in hopes i'll find another one.

Thats awesome man! Theyre still out there, I spent over a decade looking for the right one.

 

[Positronic]

Thats awesome man! Theyre still out there, I spent over a decade looking for the right one.

i've been hoping i can come across one that has been rear-ended so i can snag the LS1/T-56 and put it into the '68 i have in my garage that mostly collects dust these days

 

[AdamDeveaney]

That's the dream! The guy at the end of my road has a 68 he bought off the woman on the property behind him when her husband died, but he admitted he's not in love with it and all I heard was, you can pay a fair price for it when you find the money and now I'm working on the second part.

 

[gato]

Thank you for the detailed post. I plan to do exactly this when I get mine. I like the TRDPRO wheel.

Question, can you fit the full size spare with these tires vertically inside the trunk? If not do they fit flat?

I want to carry a full size spare, since they don't fit under the vehicle, and I don't want to do a hitch carrier 90+% of the time, I'm thinking of fabricating something to hold the tire inside.

If you have a pic of this wheel/tire combo in the trunk it would be great.

285/75R18s (34.8” x 11.2”) fit on a stock TRD Pro (or Trailhunter) with the mud flaps and crash plates removed.

So I have a stock TRD Pro and I kept the wheels because I like them. I saw a post that said you could fit 35”x12.5” tires under the stock suspension with a little work. I can confirm this is probably accurate, though my tires are not 12.5” They appear to have more than 0.5” of clearance on the inside.

These are 285/75R18 Yokohama M/Ts. They’re my go to offroad tire, having had BFGs, Coopers, and Wranglers in the past. I’m still on this truck’s first tank, but initial values look like my MPG went from 20 to 17.

I do think this approaches the maximum tire you could cram under this truck without lifting or further suspension mods. I have not had the chance to articulate the rear end and could potentially find issues like the guy I linked below did on his ORP. I do think time will show that 35x12.5s are the max size this truck will tolerate in stock form with stock wheels, and I think that will become the go to size, barring the rear end not tolerating them under max articulation.

To fit these tires under a stock TRD Pro or Trailhunter (Or any other trim with a comparable lifted ride height) you must remove the stock mud flaps, the fabric panel on the back of the wheel well, and the frame crash plate held on by (3) 17mm bolts.

I used this guide on 4runner6g.com. (https://4runner6g.com/threads/trimming-guide-for-35-tires-on-6th-gen-4runner-2025.748/) Though this is on an ORP and I did not need to trim any plastic or remove the fuel rail cover, so I did not need an extension.

Hope this all helps, good luck!

Photos and instructions follow.

• Remove the front mudflaps, (2) screws and a plastic press pin. I took these off prior to taking photos as I already knew they were interfering and were easy to remove.
• Remove the fabric covers held by (3) plastic press pins. I can’t show these on the car because they were torn off when the tire shop backed the truck out into the parking lot.
• Remove the frame crash plate held on by (3) 17mm bolts.

(1) photo showing the fabric cover


(1) photo of the tire hitting the frame crash plate


(3) photos of the plate and the (3)17mm bolts to be removed.




(1) photo showing the wheel clearing, I put the (3) bolts back into their holes, I consider this best practice anytime I remove parts, including the mudflaps, fills holes and saves time if I ever need to reinstall for some reason.


(2) photos of the truck on the tires

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