Add OEM AUX switches (and supporting components) to Limited model?

[Dobbler]

I've searched and searched and I haven't found a definitive answer.

Is it feasible to install the row of 4 OEM AUX switches in place of the "blanks" in a Limited? I realize I would probably (?) need the under-the-hood components as well. All I see are aftermarket solutions - complete switch pads, or blue backlit snap-in replacements. Surely someone has retrofitted a trim that doesn't come with the AUX 1-4 switches. I want to maintain the OEM appearance and functionality.

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[Dead Horse]

I stopped my research into this before I even bought my 4Runner.

Mainly because the aux switches add a whole ass alternator charging system on top of the DC to DC converter the hybrid systems use. That's wiring and computer shenanigans that go too deep for me to swap around.

It MAY be more doable on a non-hybrid that will already have an alternator. It may be very doable. I'd be interested to learn.

 

[Dobbler]

Surely someone has leveraged the OEM switches with an aftermarket controller?

 

[horbit]

Surely someone has leveraged the OEM switches with an aftermarket controller?

I am holding out for this. I have seen mods to the garmin powerswitch, you can obviously solder wires to the onboard buttons and route them to oem switches. I don't see why one of these big companies can't just create a headless breakout controller to use custom buttons and switches with. I have even looked at using an esp32 to pair with Bluetooth to an aux power unit, but I haven't seen that done yet.

There are also ways to interface with the canbus system to use as triggers with a DIY microcontroller solution. Its something I want to look into.

 

[horbit]

This may work for those with factory aux switches, although it is listed for the Tacoma.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/product...management-vehicle-kit-2024-on-toyota-tacoma/

 

[Maximus4R]

Hey all - so I did this and it wasn’t bad at all. Did it again on my Land Cruiser actually, although this time with the Diode Dynamics D switch. What info would be helpful to share with folks who are considering doing the same?

 

[Dobbler]

Hey all - so I did this and it wasn’t bad at all. Did it again on my Land Cruiser actually, although this time with the Diode Dynamics D switch. What info would be helpful to share with folks who are considering doing the same?

I have a non-hybrid Limited. I just have blanks on the lower row. I would love to:
1. Buy and install OEM AUX1-AUX4 switches (4)
2. Wire these switches to a controller (like the one above) in the engine compartment
3. Use these switches to control lighting on a roof rack (forward, sides, chaser) and ditch lights

 

[Maximus4R]

Makes sense - this is my first attempt ever at a 'walk through' but happy to revise, update, and/or add any info I miss.

Here are the parts I used, - I need to find the fourth connector's part number still as I only needed AUX 1-3 for my setup. If you have the hybrid you don't need the connectors or pins - those should already be wired behind the blanks. Those connections should have ground and illumination but you'll still need to intercept and run the switch output to your controler.


OEM switch part numbers:
AUX1 Switch: 84485-AK010
AUX2 Switch: 84485-AK020
AUX3 Switch: 84485-AK030
AUX4 Switch: 84485-AK030

OEM connector part numbers:
AUX1 Connector: 90980-12C78
AUX2 Connector: 90980-12C73
AUX3 Connector: 90980-12C75
Missing AUX4, will try to find it

I used these pins but would recommend getting some extras in case a crimp goes bad.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNJAuRv

For wire any 18-20 gauge will work. It doesn't need to be large since you're running power to the actual accessories through a controller or relay center. Any larger and I think you'd have a really hard time getting the pins crimped and inserted.

I used this relay center on two of my setups but really, really recommend the D Switch if you are going to have a large system - more on that later.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKJ7JW99?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Here's how the connectors get wired and what mine looked like once I had the connectors assembled. You can/should just skip the blue wire, I was doing it before I had the vehicle apart to know which I needed.

.

Here's a different view of how they get wired:
You can just grab the illumination wires from a nearby switch and just get them from the same wire placements. I ran a fresh ignition source (yellow on mine) and ground (green on mine) direct to the source. You'll end up with four output wires essentially, which is all you need to run out to the relay center. I used a multi-wire for the run to the engine bay but it's not req'd. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5QKXPN9?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_33&th=1

If you use the relay center I linked you're working with this in the engine bay. Super straight forward from here - just wire the primary 12v to the battery (obviously fused or with a breaker), run a ground to the black connections and the four aux input wires into the input side. Now you've got 4 reasonably powered 12v outputs to whatever you want with.

Note: If you want a parking light wire should you run a wire outside from the + illumination wire and feed the 5th input spot. That will give you a solid parking light trigger out of the 5th relay trigger to run backlights or anything else you have.

Now...if you're going to have a robust system you should really consider the D-Switch imho. It 'only' has three inputs that can be co-opted for Aux switch usage but the things is freaking amazing. You can customize what those inputs do on the fly using the app (1 - all of your outputs). You can set it up so that one aux input runs multiple outputs for example. I can't say I change how they're mapped often but know I can gives me infinite customization in the future. The best thing is that it's both carplay and android auto enabled so you'll have aux switches for whatever you need quick access too + full access to the other outputs. You can also wake it up with the vehicle off and still use your triggers via the app (scene lights for example). You do have to have the controller plugged in but can keep it under the hood or wire into your glove box like I did (I might run it to the back to have easy access to to trigger outputs for camping). The switch install is the same although you're really limited to 3 switches.

I believe there are ways to buy prewired connectors for these - Ed Martin might sell some - but I think they were mega bucks when I looked. I can try to find them again if it's helpful.

I think these setups are the best approach - you get OEM switches that dim with the rest, are color matched, and are rock solid.

Sorry in advance if this isn't helpful - happy to give it another revision and/or answer any questions folks have!

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