TRDORP Non Hybrid High Beam trigger wire???

[Bryan]

I did get a working solution just a couple nights ago but have been giving it a few days before posting it. I’m out of town on the road but will share what I’ve done soon. Be warned, it isn’t a cheap solution but it is a stupid simple one that took less than 10 minutes.

At this point I would gladly pay money for a stupid simple 10 minute solution. A lot of money.

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[Bryan]

all I got is

the connector in the dash... z22.. (first pic) for the turn/high beam stalk
(first red line from the left side of pic)

and the pin that is activated (1) in that connector (second pic)
when the high beam switch is on (pushed forward)

Just thought I would let everyone know, trying to tap into this wire for either a +12V signal or ground signal to trigger a relay might be doable, but be forewarned....

The diagram is misleading. The connectors are actually located far up in the dash behind the main instrument display. Getting reasonable access is going to involve major disassembly of the dash. I'm going to keep it in mind as a LAST resort, while seeking a better way.

Thanks again to 127.0.0.1 though. It should be possible, but I would almost rather pull an engine than tear apart the dash in a brand new car.

 

[Bryan]

Just to follow-up on this....

I gave up trying to decipher Toyota's wiring setup, and bought a Canny. Implementing it wasn't necessarily simple or easy, because the documentation on the device is minimal and there is nothing whatsoever related to the 4Runner specifically.

I understand CAN basics, but the 4Runner has multiple CAN networks, and the Canny will not work unless it is installed on the correct one. After several failed attempts, I found that the "correct" CAN network comes off the "Main Body ECU" located under/behind the glove compartment. There are three or four connectors plugged into the front of the ECU. One of the smaller connectors has a white wire and a pink wire coming out of positions one and two of the connector. These two wires are taped together, just the two of them, something that Toyota seems to do with all their CAN wires. The white wire is CAN low and the pink one is CAN high. This sounds like a wild goose chase, but if you are looking on the front of the Main Body ECU (Toyota speak) the wires are fairly obvious. These are the wires you need to tap into for the Canny to work.

Whether there are easier locations to access these wires, I cannot really say, but I doubt it.

I meant to include diagrams from the TIS, but my two day subscription expired. Learning to discern any useful information from the TIS was a feat for me in itself, but that's another story.

Anyway, the Canny is wired in now, and does exactly what it is supposed to....trips my relays when I switch on the high beams.

Honestly, if I had known what was going to be involved getting this to work, I might have contented myself with the stock headlights.

 

[Twisted]

Just to follow-up on this....

I gave up trying to decipher Toyota's wiring setup, and bought a Canny. Implementing it wasn't necessarily simple or easy, because the documentation on the device is minimal and there is nothing whatsoever related to the 4Runner specifically.

I understand CAN basics, but the 4Runner has multiple CAN networks, and the Canny will not work unless it is installed on the correct one. After several failed attempts, I found that the "correct" CAN network comes off the "Main Body ECU" located under/behind the glove compartment. There are three or four connectors plugged into the front of the ECU. One of the smaller connectors has a white wire and a pink wire coming out of positions one and two of the connector. These two wires are taped together, just the two of them, something that Toyota seems to do with all their CAN wires. The white wire is CAN low and the pink one is CAN high. This sounds like a wild goose chase, but if you are looking on the front of the Main Body ECU (Toyota speak) the wires are fairly obvious. These are the wires you need to tap into for the Canny to work.

Whether there are easier locations to access these wires, I cannot really say, but I doubt it.

I meant to include diagrams from the TIS, but my two day subscription expired. Learning to discern any useful information from the TIS was a feat for me in itself, but that's another story.

Anyway, the Canny is wired in now, and does exactly what it is supposed to....trips my relays when I switch on the high beams.

Honestly, if I had known what was going to be involved getting this to work, I might have contented myself with the stock headlights.

How much fun was it to get to the unit? I have a CANM8 that I was unable to get to work with the contactless reader at the headlight. I would receive a signal but couldn't decipher it or whatever. I was hoping it would be similar to the Tundra and some of those folks have had success tapping into the wires at the light. Many of them have also tapped into some module behind their glove box as well.

 

[Twisted]

I wanted to make a short video by now but life has been hectic so I'll simply share my solution until I can make the video. I took a bit of a risk and bought the XBB unit. It is $400 with no returns but fortunately it works exactly as I had hoped.

https://strandsamerica.com/products...XE4XacZjv-bEh5VswRvpTuT4ijHB95hHhmGWNYbDsnRn0

Plug a dongle into the OBD port, connect to it with your phone to set it up, use the Tundra recipe, wire a positive and ground to the relay unit, trigger wire to my BantamX, select high beam for trigger one in the app, and all works as it should. Was about a 5 minute install made easy because I was mostly wired already. I installed the relay under the hood at my SPOD unit but will probably move it under the dash just to keep it a little safer.

You only need your phone and app to set it up. After that the relay and dongle talk directly to each other. I've had it installed almost a week and 3 tanks of fuel. Has worked every time. (I've been randomly trying it to ensure it works when I need/want it.)

 

[Bryan]

How much fun was it to get to the unit? I have a CANM8 that I was unable to get to work with the contactless reader at the headlight. I would receive a signal but couldn't decipher it or whatever. I was hoping it would be similar to the Tundra and some of those folks have had success tapping into the wires at the light. Many of them have also tapped into some module behind their glove box as well.

Well, after what I explained here, if I had known it all beforehand it would have been pretty easy. The glovebox comes out with a few bolts. The kick panel snaps off and you break those little white fasteners and have to replace them for $1.50 each. Once that's done the wiring on the Main Body ECU is pretty easily accessible. The time consuming part was trying to figure out where the CAN wires are, and which CAN network I needed to tap into. As I'm sure you know, the amount of wiring on these vehicles is mind blowing.

I also spent a lot of time trying to understand the TIS. All the information is there, but it is not particular easy to figure out how to navigate and understand it.

The Canny "support" was utterly worthless IMHO. I told him I was trying to use a Canny on a 2026 4runner. He told me he has worked on the 2026 4runner, and that the headlights get a simple +12V signal to the high beams, and no Canny type device is needed. This simply isn't true. Instead of offering support he was throwing out misinformation that had me needlessly triple and quadruple checking what I was doing. When I asked for clarification he simply stopped responding. Impressive support.

 

[Bryan]

I wanted to make a short video by now but life has been hectic so I'll simply share my solution until I can make the video. I took a bit of a risk and bought the XBB unit. It is $400 with no returns but fortunately it works exactly as I had hoped.

https://strandsamerica.com/products...XE4XacZjv-bEh5VswRvpTuT4ijHB95hHhmGWNYbDsnRn0

Plug a dongle into the OBD port, connect to it with your phone to set it up, use the Tundra recipe, wire a positive and ground to the relay unit, trigger wire to my BantamX, select high beam for trigger one in the app, and all works as it should. Was about a 5 minute install made easy because I was mostly wired already. I installed the relay under the hood at my SPOD unit but will probably move it under the dash just to keep it a little safer.

You only need your phone and app to set it up. After that the relay and dongle talk directly to each other. I've had it installed almost a week and 3 tanks of fuel. Has worked every time. (I've been randomly trying it to ensure it works when I need/want it.)

This solution is better than the Canny in the sense that you don't have to get behind the dash and tap into the CAN wires. Honestly though, splicing into OEM wires doesn't really cause me concern. As long as you disconnect the battery before you do the work, are careful, and use proper crimp splices with glue lined heat shrink to seal everything up, I don't really see any potential problems unless perhaps if you had a warranty issue relating to electrics. If you have ever removed the GPS trackers that many dealers install on vehicles, they often hack up the wiring to an unbelievable degree.

Another thing that Canny support told me was that the OBD II port CAN circuit (which I knew was there) would not work with the Canny, because it was a different CAN circuit than the one that controlled the headlights. I believed him and never tested it, but it appears that information was wrong also. It's kind of infuriating....misinformation is 10 times worse than getting no information at all.

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