- First Name
- Scott
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- Oct 8, 2025
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- Bellingham, WA
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- 2025 4Runner
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- #1
Hi all! I just picked up an SR5 yesterday, wahoo!!! I've been researching what tires to buy. There is just so much good info out there but I could use some guidance
I want >=32'' so my ground clearance is higher but <=33'' to keep the weight of the tire down and I don't want a lift or anything. Generally, I don't want to hurt my mpg and overall ride comfort for aesthetic reasons more than I'd need to. I expect to use this during light-ish off roading (>=8'' clearance required), lots wet snow in the winter, and rain on pavement...probably not so much mud...although I live north of Seattle hmmm. Not so many super pointy rocks on what I'd expect to go on that I'm worried about puncture resistance.
Alos, I've recently learned about all the lovely benefits of SL rated tires over the more burly C and E counterparts and the main guidance I've seen is "just make sure you index load is >= factory tire's index load". I just checked the stock index load for the Yoko 245/70r17 X-CV tires and they're 112. That said, is there a buffer when you're doing light-ish off-roading like what I do? Maybe shoot for like an index of 116? Or am I looking at the wrong spec?
So, I'm like, dang!!! Most of the pics I'm seeing are of C or E rated tires that are super heavy. And when I think of heavy, I think of 2+ mpg hit which translates to like $1k+ cost over the lifetime of the tires. I've seen some lovely comments about folks discussing SL and saying they're a bit soft for puncture resistance. But would they work in my case?
Also, re the tire size, it looks like 285/70r17 is a happy choice for a lot of people. With the SL rating, the tire weights can stay relatively low (although not as a low as the 34lb stock tire):
- Toyo AT3 at 47lbs.
- Nitto Grappler at 48lbs.
- Wildpeak A/T4W at 54lbs. (deepest treads)
I'd also be fine for the even lighter 255/75r17 Yoko G015 for example coming in at a whopping 41 lbs! Their load index is the closest to 112, giving effectively no margin though. Maybe that would still work though?
Anyway, some guidance would be awesome. Also, kinda sucks that you can't reprogram the tire size without doing a like a custom tune job but I'm thinking if I keep the tire light, then even with a bigger tire I'd be OK.
I want >=32'' so my ground clearance is higher but <=33'' to keep the weight of the tire down and I don't want a lift or anything. Generally, I don't want to hurt my mpg and overall ride comfort for aesthetic reasons more than I'd need to. I expect to use this during light-ish off roading (>=8'' clearance required), lots wet snow in the winter, and rain on pavement...probably not so much mud...although I live north of Seattle hmmm. Not so many super pointy rocks on what I'd expect to go on that I'm worried about puncture resistance.
Alos, I've recently learned about all the lovely benefits of SL rated tires over the more burly C and E counterparts and the main guidance I've seen is "just make sure you index load is >= factory tire's index load". I just checked the stock index load for the Yoko 245/70r17 X-CV tires and they're 112. That said, is there a buffer when you're doing light-ish off-roading like what I do? Maybe shoot for like an index of 116? Or am I looking at the wrong spec?
So, I'm like, dang!!! Most of the pics I'm seeing are of C or E rated tires that are super heavy. And when I think of heavy, I think of 2+ mpg hit which translates to like $1k+ cost over the lifetime of the tires. I've seen some lovely comments about folks discussing SL and saying they're a bit soft for puncture resistance. But would they work in my case?
Also, re the tire size, it looks like 285/70r17 is a happy choice for a lot of people. With the SL rating, the tire weights can stay relatively low (although not as a low as the 34lb stock tire):
- Toyo AT3 at 47lbs.
- Nitto Grappler at 48lbs.
- Wildpeak A/T4W at 54lbs. (deepest treads)
I'd also be fine for the even lighter 255/75r17 Yoko G015 for example coming in at a whopping 41 lbs! Their load index is the closest to 112, giving effectively no margin though. Maybe that would still work though?
Anyway, some guidance would be awesome. Also, kinda sucks that you can't reprogram the tire size without doing a like a custom tune job but I'm thinking if I keep the tire light, then even with a bigger tire I'd be OK.
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