Spyder Joint + Slip Yoke Question

[FloridaPhotog]

With an NGL#2 grease with moly being recommended for the drive shaft slip yoke. Would you consider Liqui Moly 3520 LM 47 Long-Life Grease +MoS2 grease a high-quality useable grease?


What would you recommend for the spyder joints? I realize a NGL2 Lithium grease is what Toyota calls for.

Link to Liqui Moly 3520 LM 47 Grease for reference:

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/lo...KaQSbQ-R4Lz4YpDBHSmgkCGvVJb4YhJY6jYWFsH#22255



Thanks Jon

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[MStarmer]

I've been greasing 4runner U-Joints since 2019. Many a thread on this topic over the years. First off, other than us enthusiasts I can bet there are many 4Runners that NEVER get greased, even by the dealer. Any good grease that meets the NLG2 standard works for both the U-Joints and yokes. Personally I used Mystik JT-6, I believe some research was done and that's what the manufacturer of the actual U-Joint's spec'd out. https://a.co/d/0gp5lpqk

 

[127.0.0.1]

my '99 limited specified two types, a special one for the cardan. I just use moly nlg2 on everything incl slip and >300,000 miles later, pumping in new grease every 10,000 miles... I haven't blown anything on the prop shafts. but every 10,000 is a lot of fresh grease far more often than it really needs....

 

[MStarmer]

After seeing this thread I crawled under mine and did the (5) accessible zerk's. The slip yoke on the rear drive shaft is now booted so I don't think there's really anything you can do about that one with no fitting. They just started to make noise after the second pump when you hear it, so I stopped at 3 for each. Not that they probably weren't fine for the next 20K but just the peace of mind that I know they are full starting off. One thing I always do is coat the exposed part of the front drive shaft with Surface Shield or Fluid Film. Next I'll work on checking the diff's and transfer case to make sure they are topped off as well. My 2023 seemed a lot lower than I thought it should be so I still verify. As far as Moly is concerned it's not required, and it would only be for the slip yokes anyway. Moly isn't recommended for the U-Joints.

 

[127.0.0.1]

After seeing this thread I crawled under mine and did the (5) accessible zerk's. The slip yoke on the rear drive shaft is now booted so I don't think there's really anything you can do about that one with no fitting. They just started to make noise after the second pump when you hear it, so I stopped at 3 for each. Not that they probably weren't fine for the next 20K but just the peace of mind that I know they are full starting off. One thing I always do is coat the exposed part of the front drive shaft with Surface Shield or Fluid Film. Next I'll work on checking the diff's and transfer case to make sure they are topped off as well. My 2023 seemed a lot lower than I thought it should be so I still verify. As far as Moly is concerned it's not required, and it would only be for the slip yokes anyway. Moly isn't recommended for the U-Joints.

pump until grease comes out of all 4 bearing cups
this usually means a bit of grease is wasted that
comes out of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd until 4th is flushed

if you just do a few pumps and do not get grease to flow from all 4 bearings
one or more could end up blocked, and may never take grease...so be sure
to visually confirm fat ropes of new grease get past the seals on all 4

 

[MStarmer]

pump until grease comes out of all 4 bearing cups
this usually means a bit of grease is wasted that
comes out of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd until 4th is flushed

if you just do a few pumps and do not get grease to flow from all 4 bearings
one or more could end up blocked, and may never take grease...so be sure
to visually confirm fat ropes of new grease get past the seals on all 4

Yep, I didn't try to flush them or get "fat ropes" but yes I confirmed grease all the way around. I will be doing this again 5K with oil change #2. Now if I ever had to cross deep water, then absolutely will I be doing it. Thank you for the tip though, it is appreciated.

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