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I spent a fair amount of time trying to find if someone tread this path before me and found similar installs/info, but nothing that satisfied this use case. So if there's another post that has another method, lmk.
The goal here is to populate the 5 blank switch spaces in my non-hybrid ORP with caliraised OEM style switches, where everything is prewired and the accessory just needs to be wired up to an awaiting terminal block. I took inspiration from the overland equipped aux power kit. I thought it was a bit expensive so I looked for alternatives.
In this design, the main breaker is 100 amps supporting a 12 position 100A fuse block w/ negative bus (for potential expansion), 5 relays, a hot and ground terminal block. The wiring should support the switch backlights coming on with the headlights if I can indeed find a fuse to piggyback from for those switch leads. If not, it can go to the relay along with the green wire. It only requires 9 total wires run through the firewall.
To add an accessory, pick a switch and just run your positive to the terminal block and negative to either the ground block, or negative bus on the main fuse block. Add the proper fuse for the circuit and you're done.
Rather than OE's AL plate bolted to the fuse box, I'm going with a piece of ABS that will cover the fuse box and extend into the empty space next to it to accommodate the terminal blocks and relays. The whole shebang shown in the diagram (not including the switches) comes in a quite a bit less than what the OE package costs ($230) for just the plate, breaker and fuse box. The Blue Seas 12 circuit fuse block, identical to what they're selling is 30 bucks, a breaker is $10, and 20' of 4 awg is $20.
The goal here is to populate the 5 blank switch spaces in my non-hybrid ORP with caliraised OEM style switches, where everything is prewired and the accessory just needs to be wired up to an awaiting terminal block. I took inspiration from the overland equipped aux power kit. I thought it was a bit expensive so I looked for alternatives.
In this design, the main breaker is 100 amps supporting a 12 position 100A fuse block w/ negative bus (for potential expansion), 5 relays, a hot and ground terminal block. The wiring should support the switch backlights coming on with the headlights if I can indeed find a fuse to piggyback from for those switch leads. If not, it can go to the relay along with the green wire. It only requires 9 total wires run through the firewall.
To add an accessory, pick a switch and just run your positive to the terminal block and negative to either the ground block, or negative bus on the main fuse block. Add the proper fuse for the circuit and you're done.
Rather than OE's AL plate bolted to the fuse box, I'm going with a piece of ABS that will cover the fuse box and extend into the empty space next to it to accommodate the terminal blocks and relays. The whole shebang shown in the diagram (not including the switches) comes in a quite a bit less than what the OE package costs ($230) for just the plate, breaker and fuse box. The Blue Seas 12 circuit fuse block, identical to what they're selling is 30 bucks, a breaker is $10, and 20' of 4 awg is $20.
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