I’ve got the wider mud-flaps going in shortly plus having the outer edge of the tire out further/flush w fender flare would fill the fender well better, look better, give it a wider stance and probably handle better too.
~ So I’m looking for anyone who’s done this to a Platinum/Limited w/20-in...
I have a 2026 Platinum & I’m looking to add some spacers to my stock 20-in wheels.
Curious if anyone has done this w/20-in wheel, and how did it turn out?
Photos appreciated!
Secondly, any recommendations for a brand of spacer? Thanks a bunch!
I had the Nokian R5’s on my 2022 Highlander Platinum and they were an amazing tire… no one could out accelerate me off the line in the snow, the traction was out of this world.
Yes AI is often wrong, especially on a newer model when there are 9 variants to the 4Runner there could be nuances. I thought having it underhood could be possible because of the alternator being close by, so an up front location would be sensible.
Since the alternator is an optional item on...
Seems the Trailhunter and PRO may have a starting battery up front under the hood, drivers side. Any able to confirm?
From Google Ai:
“The 12-volt starting battery for the 2025 Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro (which features the i-FORCE MAX hybrid powertrain) requires a Type C (LN4) size battery rated at...
I’m looking at that cubby in front of the battery… Already cut a piece of ABS for a rack… it’s 9-inches wide by 42.5 inches long, and maybe 4 or 5 inches high. Those AudioControl Epic Series amps are only less than 7 inches wide, by around 10 or 11 inches long. They’d fit well.
I’ll let you know how it goes. I have an AudioControl Epic1000 on the way.
Maybe have to put in an alternator.
How big is your battery, and is it in the back?
I was going to only run the stock amp on the rear channels so it’s not using as much power. I believe if you have the Trailhunter or TRD PRO even through they’re hybrids, they still have an alternator. Platinum and ORP do not have an alternator, to the best of my knowledge.
If you want full DSP control, you can still use the TacoTunes harness to patch into the speaker wires when using aftermarket amplification. I'm using the PAC AP4-TY14 to get a optical signal &remote signal from the stock head unit and send that to a DSP, and then onto aftermarket amps, tying the...
I just don't foresee sending more than 75 watts to a 3.5-in mid on the dash so no point in upgrading that wire, unless you're doing a competition or cost no object build. However I would consider upgrading the wire to the midbasses in the front & rear doors.
For the tapping into the signal...
You don't need heavier wire for mids & tweets, the stock wiring is sufficient. Most pull the sub signal from the JBL Amp harness, and send it through Audio Control (or similar) LOC and then to a a bigger sub amp. Then use heavier gauge wiring from the new amp to your new sub(s). I usually use...
Exactly, that BestSonic solution is underwhelming to say the least. That is not going to give you HiFi sound, but the PAC w/DSP and proper amplification will be the game changer for true High Fidelity
You decide. ~ I think the stock speakers can sound better if given proper power & sound dampening treatment, but personally I will upgrade at least the front tweeters, mids & midbasses, subs as I already have that equipment.
For amp locations we all know it is tight and there aren't a lot of...