What is this lower rear quarter panel part called & part number? (in heritage blue)

[bkw777]

What is this lower rear passenger side quarter panel part called & part number (in heritage blue)?

And in other totally unrelated news of no particular consequence, if you have the mud flaps, do not back into a snow drift.

Not even slowly, into a soft snow drift that isn't hard enough to hurt the body directly from the contact.

The snow will push the mud flap into contact with the tire, and the tire will grab the mud flap pull it down, and that will destroy this panel, instead of just the mud flap.

In fact, the mud flap suffered basically no damage at all. A sacrificial painted body panel to save an unpainted mudflap! Genius!

The body panel is made out of some kind of thin plastic that is normally soft but brittle in the cold. And there is a 90 degree lip with a couple of u-clip nuts with the mudflap screwed into them from inside the wheel well. And the lip just breaks right off, and another crack formed along the bottom going from the wheel to the bumper. And glue doesn't stick to that plastic, so good luck trying to repair the lip to get the screws back in.

That whole area is just a bunch of flimsy delicate plastic parts all clipped to each other with nothing screwed to anything solid, so as soon as any one part breaks, the whole area falls apart.

I'm agrevated but in fact I was able to get it more or less back together good enough for now.

I was able to transfer the u-clips to the same places but on the wheel well so there is something to screw the mudflap to. And there are a few other places that had these big beefy square plastic expansion nuts in square holes, but the plastic body and wheel well parts the nuts are in are way softer and weaker than the nuts, so the nuts just pulled right out. I was able to replace those with some "Lincoln license plate nuts" at ace hardware which are black and square and grab the square holes much more solid. And some black #14 x 1 sheet metal screws & washers to go in them. The broken lip is covered up by the fender flare so it doesn't show, and the big crack along the bottom is on the bottom so it doesn't show either from above. So it's in position and won't fall out and looks ok, but it's weaker and you can wiggle it around now.

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[TyRoosevelt]

The part you circled is part of the rear bumper. It’s all one piece. You cannot replace it individually. The entire rear shell including the piece you circled is around $800 from paintedoemparts. Look there and it has the part number listed.

 

[RunnerRocks]

Which mud flaps do (did) you have ?

 

[NotApplicable]

Honestly, rear mud flaps are for the guy behind you. Front mud flaps are for you. So skip the rears!

 

[bkw777]

Honestly, rear mud flaps are for the guy behind you. Front mud flaps are for you. So skip the rears!

Well, I care about the guy behind me too. I mean for one thing I am the guy behind you and I don't need to be tailgating to catch a rock from you. And I would hate the imbalanced look with flaps in front and no matching ones in back.

 

[bkw777]

Which mud flaps do (did) you have ?

Stock. I guess they are an option but a pre-installed option I didn't get to choose. I call them flaps but they are pretty rigid and sculpted, no flap or flex to them.

 

[OR4runner]

$210.78 from Toyota (if your local dealership will price match) + paint
or roughly $800+shipping from paintedoemparts as @TyRoosevelt posted above

 

[bkw777]

I was wrong about one of the cracks I described, it was just this molding seam that stars at the top-right screw here and goes left & around the other screw.

 

[RunnerRocks]

Similar rigid molded mud guards came PIO on our ORP. They're coming off for the very reason you experienced, except on rocks rather than snow.

Still deciding between RokBlokz and Tufskinz.

I don't mind if the flaps are ripped off or damaged. Just don't want any body damage.

 

[bkw777]

The u-clip nuts were originally on part 1, now they are on part 2, and parts 1 & 2 are not connected to each other any more.

Part 2 is not super rigid and only connected by real screws over on the inboard side. At the outboard side it's only attached by those loose push button rivets. So when you wiggle the flap, the wole black thing flexes and moves a little. The original attachment to the body panel gave it all just that little extra mouse of strength.

And here's my plan to rebuild the lip where the u-clips were originally. I found this piece of aluminum flashing for 58 cents at Lowes. I don't trust the epoxy to actually hold to the plastic more than lightly. But if I have a large sheet surface area glued to the inside surface of the body panel hopefully that will make up the difference.

 

[bkw777]

Here's the original expansion nuts vs the license plate nuts. They need to poke through more than one layer on the back side so I found these unusual ones that are longer than most. I can't find a link for them on the Ace hardware site. They were in the loose hardware drawers, and they were labeled as being for Lincoln.

They are only inserted into nothing but soft plastic panels, no metal. Those 2 little wings in the corners pull right through and bugger up the corners on the way. You could put the originals back in rotated 90 degrees to get two fresh corners and one more use. But I just hate everything about the way those work so the other style that grabs all 4 flat sides instead of 2 corner tips is just 100 times more solid.

The screws and washers I happened to get somewhere else from Lowes but I'm pretty sure you could get everything from the same place.

And since the new screws are just philips pan head, I didn't pollute the truck with one fastener than needs a non-metric socket. haha (we will just ignore about JIS vs Philips).

I think the nuts were technically meant for #12 screws but #14 still works and bites in more solid without stripping out so easy.

It's cold and super windy outside or else I'd just be fixing the thing instead of writing all these posts about it.

 

[Randeezy]

My problem with that piece is that right in the middle I have two low points where the light refracts differently (looks like two dings), but the paint and clear are perfect in those spots. Initially I thought they were just clip points that shrunk during winter but in the service manual there are no securement points in the middle just on the edges. Guess it’s just two minor injection molding defects…

 

[bkw777]

$210.78 from Toyota (if your local dealership will price match) + paint
or roughly $800+shipping from paintedoemparts as @TyRoosevelt posted above

Wow. Well I guess it makes sense to bother trying to rebuild the lip after all.

That is kind of ridiculous to have such a big part so easily broken. I mean it's a mudflap. it IS going to take hits. At least the part costs less than I would have imagined.

 

[bkw777]

The part you circled is part of the rear bumper. It’s all one piece. You cannot replace it individually. The entire rear shell including the piece you circled is around $800 from paintedoemparts. Look there and it has the part number listed.

Good god. Just holy hell.

And I don't even know who to blame. Is it really just that thoughtless design? Or did all designers involved hate this as much as I do, but execs forced them to do it this way to reduce part counts and assembly steps, at the expense of all other priorities like resilience and repairability.

Why did they stop there? Surely they could get the entire body down to a single big piece cut out of a sheet and stamped into shape. So efficient!

Meanwhile they made the front grill out of 87 parts and 900 clips...

 

[bkw777]

Anyway thanks for the part numbers and links.

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