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I get a click sound after each turn letf or right. Not a creaking sound. Its 100% repeatable but I too would like to know if that is normal without hijacking your thread. Its one click per turn. I am assuming its a steering sensor or something that is just noisy alond with the many other pops...

Looks nice. I know the original is not holding up well. was that just the cover or whole lid? now, if I could only find upper door soft soft surface upgrades that are not too difficult to fit.

Cool, thanks for the confirmation. That would be quite a thing hanging off the back hitch :) We have two eBikes when are light for being an eBike but heavy compated to two road bikes. Super Duty handles it well. They have been bring new accesories out albeit slowly. A Security pin for the hitch...

I guess I need to find that new and wonderful wiper button 😝

I have the 1UP Super Duty. I only need two trays but I thought they had add on trays to expand. I see this comment on the 1up Super Duty page - " Up to 3 bikes (Single) or 4 bikes (Double)". I really don't understand what they mean by Single and Double. The Quickrstuff rack looks like a 1up...

I too have noticed this but its more pronounced when on the gas. I tend to let off the gas and then shift. It does however seem very crude and clunky overall. From reading other posts on the topic, I beleive the overall conclusion is this is normal.

I have not noticed that and have driven in a lot or rain in the last 10 months. I did fit a Husky Hood protector which may be preventing this happening. I got the hood protector to protect from chips on the front edge. I have protective film on the rest of the front but the hood protector was...

1up is far more durable that all otters. Built in the USA. Worth the extra $$$$ over the plastic imported junk. I have the super duty.

I got the same in plain old black. They too are peeling at the edges but I am putting up with it for now and will fix or replace with something more substantial eventually. Looking for other brands if anyone can recommend.

I use a cable. 100% reliable. Use the port on the top right side of the head unit. I choose to do this because I have the Car Wi-Fi enabled. My iPhone cannot connect to wireless Carplay and the Car WiFi hotspot at the same time. So, cable for me just works.

Interesting but, I think I'll stick with the OEM battery. I have not read or can think of a good reason to swap it at extra cost without any perceived value to me. The Made in China thing is disappointing and a show stopper for me if I was interested.

I am shocked this is not on the manual?

Why not get a warranty repair? If like me, you don’t trust the dealer to do quality work, I understand.

Why would you? Curious.

I like the plug-in attachment. I did not know they had that accessory. Very tidy setup. I have the battery tender cable connected direct to the battery terminals (it has an in-line fuse). The cable protrudes on the passenger side, top of fender under the hood lip. Its fairly hidden, cable ties...

I would force the dealer to redo or change dealer if you have another one nearby. Speak to the service manager, not the advisor. They need to know. How many others have they done like this. I had the same issue with Ford, I had to check their work each time and found missing fasteners four times.

May I ask why? What is the driving need over the OEM systems?

And the cost?????

On the California pumps with that strong Slinky spring, it happened to me in many different vehicles so its not just the 4runner. I pretty much stand close or hold the pump handle now by default but since leaving CA, the pump handle elsewhere do not seem to have that issue, at least in my local...

Good deal.