Search results

Attached view. 2nd rail removed.

Yes, the typical finger-like devices. They will wrap and lock down with pressure. They don’t close fully but you don’t need it fully closed so long as it’s locked around and the other mounts are locked. Even with just two locked down you can’t move the box. I wouldn’t be worried about it failing.

Believe took the second bar out from the front. I can check but my memory is shit. Standard hardware with the box. Drove it from PA to Vermont doing 80mph. No wobble or shake or issue. Solid. Takes 5 minutes to mount.

Well, fitted a force 3L and I think it’s a great option. Fits like a glove you just need to take out one cross bar on the ARB rack.

I literally get the clank even sitting shifting to 2wd barely moving. Irritating as hell as it sounds like something is bound to break.

Agreed. I believe the Force 3L is a decent option for size and weight. I’m having one fitted Thursday and will let you know if it works on the ARB setup.

Anybody else experiencing a clank / hard clunk when you shift from 4wd back to 2wd? Doing so while moving (not fast) and not on the gas. Find it still can do it stopped when you then start to try to move again. Wondering if normal or not.

Interested in this. Also had similar question as I have the 3/4 rack. Assuming a box and the rack, does that mean I likely only have 60-75 lbs of added weight that can be stored (40-50 for rack and 40-50 for box)? A dealer tried to tell me the arb rack weight doesn’t factor into this...

Did not attempt to but heard it may fit

Torque 2” lift / level kit. Lifts rear about .75 and front 2” to correct rake and level.

Pinging to move this up. Any thoughts?

Looking for a skybox that can hold snowboards / luggage and fits on the ARB 3/4 roof base system (factory option) that will not interfere with the tailgate when it’s up. Does anyone have a currently Thule / Yakima model that is being used on this that works and fits appropriately?

From your experience, have you seen any Toyota issues / knowledge of the ecu being flashed with warranty concerns? I hear mixed thoughts.

Once you flash the ECU / TCM with that piggy back cord (non-obdII cord) do you ever need to use that separate piggy-back cord again, or can you simply uninstall / install with the OBD2 alone?

Has anyone tuned with Cobb yet? Any impressions on the trans-tune? How is it driving? Any impressions on the ecu? Appreciate feedback.

Do they shut off still when the car is off in this setting?

Agree. Been trying to figure this out.

Does this include the transmission tune and ECU? I realize they only have a “stage 1” currently - as other stages perhaps become available (with mods required) - would this grant access to those OTS tunes when they become available? I have a dealer by me offering it for $693 as well - was...

I’m running 285/70/18 Ko3’s on my current setup with Torq Engineering 2” lift-level kit and ARK crash delete plates. I am bias to the Ko3 as I’ve had Ko2’s on both of my raptors and they are handled awesome in all weather. So far I haven’t noticed a lot of noise, just run proper PSI in them and...

well we just got 15” of snow and ice today and I’ll be driving early in it tomorrow to go boarding. Will let you know- but the Ko3’s have been rated very well for snow. Their only downside is weight but honestly seems fine driving - not a lot of loss on performance for the added weight.